Columbia Grafonola 112a Restoration

[#Montana]

Hi, I’m new to the forum and to undertaking any restoration, I have a Columbia 112a that arrived in need of some care and attention.

Currently I am working on the cleaning and cosmetics of this 1929 Columbia 112a before any attempt at the mechanics. Unfortunately the internal horn was broken at the lug end and I will look at glueing, but unsure if all bits were in bottom of case, or if that is how I should go about this repair.

I read a closed post about metal lid fixings and it mentioned soaking in some rust remover, and when it is all clean strip all those pieces back to bare metal, and give them a few coats of gun barrel blue and seal with a spray lacquer. I understand that different products would be needed for the different metals - one for steel (lid clasp, handle ends and escutcheon) and one for brass (corners) would be needed ( I think this is called Brass Black)

Should the spray lacquer be gloss or Matt finish?

Any advise on these two initial questions would be greatly appreciated as this is my first attempt and I want to be as true to restoration as I can. Thankyou.

[Audio1950]

By the "lug end" do you mean where the arm meets the base of the arm, or where the horn swivels at the other end.
Yes, follow the cleaning method for the exterior fittings, and seal with satin finish lacquer, gloss is too shiny, and matt too dull.

Barry

[#Montana]

Hi Barry, Thanks for clarifying the cleaning method and advise on best lacquer finish to use.

The lug end (as I called it) is at the bottom of the internal horn which is attached to the tone arm.

Not sure how the lugs work whether they are secured as I note that the outer horn has bolts near the end. But if the lugs are fixed into a set position I haven’t worked out how when you lift the lid the tonearm rises. Have looked to see if there is a Instruction leaflet for the 112a but no luck so far.

I am still trying to work out if I have all the bits as some fragments are quite small. I do have both lug parts though.

I understand that this internal horn end often has damage.

[Audio1950]

Those bolts have pointed ends, which locate into the holes in the projecting lugs on the end of the horn, and act as the swivel when the lid is raised. The bolts have to be removed to re-instal the horn. Is it the horn itself that it broken, they usually are! If it is, then gluing will not be strong enough. I usually superglue the bits together, than bind the whole thing with strips of fibreglass from a car repair shop. Then you have the job of inserting the horn back whilst you locate the pointed bolts into the swivel holes. Good luck with that!

Barry

[#Montana]

Yes it’s the horn that is broken, didn’t think just glueing would be sufficient so will follow your example and bind it. Thanks for confirming that lugs do need to fit in with the bolts, I imagine this is tricky in itself, but hope through patience and perseverance to be able to manage this.

[Audio1950]

The best way to fix it back is to remove the internal horn completely, so that you can hold that upright and slide the repaired end down into the horn while someone shines a torch into the horn. Hook the left hand lug into the bolt on that side, then wiggle the right hand lug into place while you do the bolt up. Not too tight or it won't swivel smoothly plus you run the risk of breaking it again. Just finger tight, then do the nut up, I make it sound easier than it is!

Barry

[#Montana]

Thanks for this most practical advice. I guess that in manufacture the internal horn was fitted before the end of the outer horn was sealed off. Do you know if all of the Columbia portable gramophones came with a customer instruction operating, maintenance card, similar to those supplied with HMV portables, as I have seen some available for a few Columbia models but nothing for the 112a.

Andrew

[Audio1950]

Originally Posted by #Montana

Do you know if all of the Columbia portable gramophones came with a customer instruction operating, maintenance card, similar to those supplied with HMV portables, as I have seen some available for a few Columbia models but nothing for the 112a.

Andrew

I don't know for certain, but I would think that instruction cards were issued with every machine.

Barry

[locknut]

For the horn, I've had good results on similar jobs binding with a thin carbon fibre cord, then flooding it with a clear resin. The cord is very strong indeed, and if carefully bound, you can make any repair very tidy and fairly innocuous, especially after a bit of camouflage.

You'll probably have to piece it together first with some super glue as said above, but I would just spot it together, so that gaps are left for the resin to go through.

Just another option.

[#Montana]

Thanks for your other option of undertaking this repair, I have already fully glued all the bits back together and ordered glass fibreglass strips so will try Barry’s method on this occasion but it’s always good to know about other methods and something to have in the knowledge bank.

I did manage to find all of the pieces of the internal horn after some investigation of the outer horn and I found the alluding small missing triangular piece of metal, the final part of this jigsaw.

[#Montana]

Hope this makes sense as just learning and unsure on how things fit together. Do the tonearm parts separate from the chrome/nickle part and the black horn part, there are two small screws where the two pieces join and a further third screw which seems to be a swing movement restricter. I can see a line where the two seem to join but not sure if these come apart or how even with all three screws removed they can be separated l think the immediate part where the chrome goes in is made of brass and has been painted black.

[Audio1950]

The horn and tonearm are all one piece and do not separate.

Barry

[#Montana]

Thanks for clarifying this Barry. I thought that there was a way of separating these parts and that it had something to do with taking out the screws and that the black ring round the base of the arm (with the holes in it) had to be unscrewed.

[#Montana]

This is the section I thought separated

[#Montana]

This might be clearer

[Audio1950]

Yes, you can remove the arm from its socket (I thought you meant the bit further down) but I wouldn't recommend it, or you will have ball bearings falling out all over the place! You need a tool that will engage with those three holes and then unscrew it. But please don't! Why do you need to separate the arm from the horn?

Barry

[#Montana]

Hi Barry, I had thought that removing it might have been easier in manipulating and relocating the lug end section back on to lugs in the horn as I was struggling to get this to connect, but persevered using your method and have now managed this.

I am now looking at the manual brake and the leather is really hard and I wondered how long of a protrusion should there be or whether I need to source a replacement leather. I assume this has hardened over time and shouldn’t be a hard lump. Are the leathers a standard item for most manual brakes or do I need a specific one.

[Audio1950]

No, you don't need anything specific, any piece of leather will do. Send me a PM with your details and I'll pop a piece in the post.

Barry

[#Montana]

Thanks Barry will send PM

[#Montana]

What is the best glue to use to reattach velvet pad turntable platter?