Help to restore my Orion 222.

[nichosI]

Hi, sorry to say I have no idea about radios.

But I have a small oldy marked "ORION Typ: 222", box of curved wood aprx. 12"x9"x8", with bakelite grill.

The works inside comprise of;-

Top:
a larger & a smaller Transformers, 5 sockets for bulbs marked EAF 42, EL 41, one tube in position is "Osram, & olso are 4 alum. tubes

Under:
a lot of black & cream waxy "transistors" perhaps you call them?.

A screwed label says "ECH42" & the rest fated.

As I love making good old machinery, can I get info here of how to renew, refurbish etc the existing lot, or if not, can I get an inexpensive innards set to bring it back to life?.

I can solder & have build in the past electronic kits from Maplin etc, provided they had idiot's approach info to doing it.

Thanx, nick

http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/1...d002xx1.th.jpg

http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/7...o003ws5.th.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8...o001ic1.th.jpg

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/7...o004gv6.th.jpg

http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/9323/rbotxw9.th.jpg

[Steve_P]

Easy if you know how. Read this lot:

http://www.vintage-radio.com/repair-...ion/index.html

We're here if you need us!

Cheers,

Steve P

[PJL]

Hi, it looks like you have some parts missing? knobs? valves? do you have the cardboard back?

The missing valves should be ECH42, EAF42, EAF42, EL41, AZ41. I don't think the host of the site, Paul Stenning, has a service sheet for this but there is a circuit diagram available on the web.

It is a good set for a beginner to work on as it has a fully isolated chassis (oddly it has a 165V heater secondary winding). The only drawback is it originates from Hungary and may only have mains selection for up to 220V?

Before you spend any money on replacement valves/ new parts, you should check the two transformers have continuity by measuring the winding resistances with a meter.

[Steve_P]

The circuit of this set is available here...

http://www.***********************/service/orion222.jpg

Cheers,

Steve P.

[geofy]

Curious pictures, it looks as if I have just won an Audi

The set is well worth restoring, but aren't they all.

To reinforce the forum members message, do one piece of work at a time. post a picture and get the forum to comment, before doing the next stage.

ie; if you put in a valve or change a component, don't do any more until it is comfirmed it is in the right place or the right type.

If you have experience of building kits then this should present no problems.

Geof

[nichosI]

Thanx Steve & PJL,

Yes only have one all glass Valve OSRAM 4 maybe 2 or 9 ?

Near the Valves written in pencill are EAF42, EL 41, & on the specs plate shows your Nos. ECH42

It has a round bakelite disk with arrow pointing to 220, it pulls out & can be rotated to change the 2 opposing pins position to 110, 127?, 150?

One alum. pod says "TESLA", TC517, 32mF, 250/275V, made in Checoslovakia LV-Y, & another pod the same with L-FQ

Has two cardboards back & bottom, plus the one with cloth behind the bakelite grill.

The two knobs are not the originals, ie. all 3 mssing.

For the large TXr, the 5 cable solders on one side show continuity, but can not assertain if are shorting wrongly. On its other side of 4 solders 2 show continuity but again what is it?

The smaller TXr seems is for the speaker (but hasn't got one) & may be Ok on continuity.

BTW, BJL we are only a couple of miles away nick

PS. would the "Crown Radio" at Uxbridge rd (A4020) Hayes End have parts for this radio, do you think? Somebody said is there since 80 yrs ago!

[nichosI]

How & why an Audy

Will follow tips, sorry for the fotos, my camera is matchbox size & only £5.

Alas my experience on kits is only on modern ones for gate/garage door operators, gate video comm. etc., with info for idiots. But am OK on building my PCs. nick

[geofy]

Hi Nick, the pictures are ok, it is the web hosting site you use that has a competition banner across the top with a chance to win an Audi, thats all.

If your camera uses jpeg format these can be uploaded directly to the forum using the 'manage attachment' link, after putting the jpeg in your local computer folder.

It doesn't matter that the kits you have made are modern ones, they are all components and all the same principles apply. Though with valve equipment there are high voltages involved so safety precautions are needed.

I always make notes and drawings when I take something apart. If you leave a job you have the notes to show what goes where when you pick it up again. If you don't this could happen

Geof

[nichosI]

Thanks Geofy,
enjoy your Audi!, good tips, what do I use to clean all sticky dust & grime, I feel it needs a spray of warm water first?

Where can I find the explanations of all the electronic parts shown in the drawing? nick

[geofy]

Hi Nick

You want to have a good long read of the forum link that Steve P has provided.

It can be tricky cleaning a chassis, but you must not let water get into the various coils. Get all the dry dusty debris off first with a soft brush, best done outside. Do not use a water spray as this could get inside the various coils and tuning components. A damp brush with a small amount of soap solution could be used on the metal chassis parts but don't let the chassis get wet as such. Do not use petroleum based products as this could wash of component markings.

Post pictures of the components you want to know about.

Geof
I am quite happy with my Vauxhall

[nichosI]

I guess you are right, not to repeat the stupidity of sandblasting the very original, albaight rustyish, frame of my 1923 Douglas bike.

The Hayse car book has a page decoding the signs of electrical items, but are the new types.

Have not seen any decodings in the info yet.

I am trying to dot down any IDs of each item & their position.

If the shop in near by Hayes is open, I will take the whole thing & see if I can find anything appropriate to fit. Hopefully will be a learned person there to advise me. nick

[geofy]

It helps to take a picture of the parts before removing and making drawings and notes of which wires are removed, position of parts, type of fixings, and it what order, colour ect;

A book on electronic assembly would be a worth getting. And one showing how to read values of components, colour codes and so on, these haven't changed even though the older components might show a value written in a different way, a capacitor might show uuF or uF instead of nF or pF or even kF but they all can be translated back to their proper value.

A bit like calling one pound a hundredth of a hundred pounds instead of just one pound, it is still one pound value! (and doesn't buy much).

The 1923 Douglas bike (motor or push?) sounds interesting, Jellonite or Cure Rust and Finnegan's might have been a bit kinder. But we are getting outside the thread.

Post those pictures

Geof

[nichosI]

Just had wornings of my bad attachments, did not realise of what was happenng, sorry.

Thanks to Jeofy I managed the proper way, BUT.... can not find out how to get rid of the original offending ones. Can the Bosses do it for me please?

Push & let go the compression breaker to start, then hop on fast, no clutch just clong-clong the 2 gears at right revs. Belt drive from V belt out of gearbox to second rim on rear wheel. nick

[geofy]

Hi Nick the attachments look ok, any bad ones will just get lost somewhere.
The radio voltage of 220V could be a problem unless a variac can be found to connect it to.

In theory we are meant to have 230 volts to comply with European directives Don't we just love european directives

But all that has happened is we still have 240V and have just widened the tolerance band to around 13%

The Douglas sounds quite a rare machine, Sammy Miller might like it, we take syncromesh for granted! But better stay on thread.

[nichosI]

no, they build a lot for ww1

[Station X]

No discussions about vintage motorcycles in this forum please. I love them myself, but there are other forums to discuss them in.

[nichosI]

I stand corrected nick