Sending a CRT to RACS by post - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

FRANK.C · 23rd Nov 2009, 1:00 am

I recently successfully posted a 12" CRT to RACS to be rebuilt. I thought others may be interested in how it was packed for posting using polystyrene sheets and expanding foam.

We all know how CRT's like this one can implode with little or no provocation so I am not saying that this is a foolproof method or anything like that. It's just what worked for me or at least I got away with it.

I first got a piece of polystyrene sheet cut to 18" X 18" and hollowed out the Centre to fit the faceplate of the tube. I placed this sheet on top of two others of the same size to bring the thickness of the sheets to 6" approx. These three sheets was covered with a bin liner so they could be removed when the foam set. They were placed on the workshop floor with the hollowed out one on top

The final anode connector of the tube was covered with cardboard in a way that it wouldn't get caught when the tube was been removed from the packing. The tube was covered with a bin liner and placed on top of the polystyrene sheets.

Cardboard was cut and folded around the polystyrene sheets to form a box around the tube. The box was about 6" higher that the tube base with extra left at the top and bottom to form the ends. The open edge of the box was just taped together to stop the expanding foam from escaping. A cardboard tube was placed over the tube neck and inside the bin liner to extend the cavity been formed for the tub neck to beyond the height of the box. This was so if the insulation got squashed the tube base wouldn't dig into it.

The box was then filled with expanding foam (the type used by builders). The larger areas around the tube neck was bulked out with polystyrene sheet, but each sheet was glued to each other with foam to form one solid block of insulation. Once the insulation was set the cardboard tube around the tube neck was removed and that end of the box taped up.

The box was then carefully flipped over (tube face now facing up) the three polystyrene sheets and bin liner removed. The bin liner across the tube face was cut open and any insulation in front of the tube was removed, two hand holes was scooped out of the insulation to allow hands to get in behind the tube to remove it. As a test the tube was removed and placed back into its original position. The insulation held it very snugly. Cling film was then placed across the tube face and up the inside of each side of the box, it was pushed down into the hand holes and any other depression in the insulation. Expanding foam was then poured on top, before it set two sheets of polystyrene was laid on top giving a insulation thickness of about 6" in front of the tube. Again as a test the insulation when set was removed and replaced. The box was then taped up ready for shipment to RACS

I had thought of putting a wooden crate around it, but when I saw how solid the finished package was I didn't think there was any need.

Frank

AlanBeckett · 23rd Nov 2009, 1:44 am

Frank,
Essentially what you've done is what Company's do for international shipping. At my last Company we did just that, except it was all done using bought-in kit. First you took a suitably sized box, put a 'bag' of expanding foam into it, followed by the product, then another 'bag' on top. Then you triggered the foam to fill up the spaces. The expanding foam filled up all the spaces round the product.
Well done!
Alan

23rd Nov 2009, 1:00 am	#1
FRANK.C Heptode Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Roscommon, Ireland Posts: 732	Sending a CRT to RACS by post I recently successfully posted a 12" CRT to RACS to be rebuilt. I thought others may be interested in how it was packed for posting using polystyrene sheets and expanding foam. We all know how CRT's like this one can implode with little or no provocation so I am not saying that this is a foolproof method or anything like that. It's just what worked for me or at least I got away with it. I first got a piece of polystyrene sheet cut to 18" X 18" and hollowed out the Centre to fit the faceplate of the tube. I placed this sheet on top of two others of the same size to bring the thickness of the sheets to 6" approx. These three sheets was covered with a bin liner so they could be removed when the foam set. They were placed on the workshop floor with the hollowed out one on top The final anode connector of the tube was covered with cardboard in a way that it wouldn't get caught when the tube was been removed from the packing. The tube was covered with a bin liner and placed on top of the polystyrene sheets. Cardboard was cut and folded around the polystyrene sheets to form a box around the tube. The box was about 6" higher that the tube base with extra left at the top and bottom to form the ends. The open edge of the box was just taped together to stop the expanding foam from escaping. A cardboard tube was placed over the tube neck and inside the bin liner to extend the cavity been formed for the tub neck to beyond the height of the box. This was so if the insulation got squashed the tube base wouldn't dig into it. The box was then filled with expanding foam (the type used by builders). The larger areas around the tube neck was bulked out with polystyrene sheet, but each sheet was glued to each other with foam to form one solid block of insulation. Once the insulation was set the cardboard tube around the tube neck was removed and that end of the box taped up. The box was then carefully flipped over (tube face now facing up) the three polystyrene sheets and bin liner removed. The bin liner across the tube face was cut open and any insulation in front of the tube was removed, two hand holes was scooped out of the insulation to allow hands to get in behind the tube to remove it. As a test the tube was removed and placed back into its original position. The insulation held it very snugly. Cling film was then placed across the tube face and up the inside of each side of the box, it was pushed down into the hand holes and any other depression in the insulation. Expanding foam was then poured on top, before it set two sheets of polystyrene was laid on top giving a insulation thickness of about 6" in front of the tube. Again as a test the insulation when set was removed and replaced. The box was then taped up ready for shipment to RACS I had thought of putting a wooden crate around it, but when I saw how solid the finished package was I didn't think there was any need. Frank Attached Thumbnails

23rd Nov 2009, 1:44 am	#2
AlanBeckett Rest in Peace Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Burton upon Trent, East Staffordshire, UK. Posts: 1,686	Re: Sending a CRT to RACS by post Frank, Essentially what you've done is what Company's do for international shipping. At my last Company we did just that, except it was all done using bought-in kit. First you took a suitably sized box, put a 'bag' of expanding foam into it, followed by the product, then another 'bag' on top. Then you triggered the foam to fill up the spaces. The expanding foam filled up all the spaces round the product. Well done! Alan