spray lacquer

[inecik38]

please write me your recommends abaut how to make spray lacquer.

[Nickthedentist]

What for, exactly?

Nick

[richrussell]

I've used various automotive aerosol clear lacquers on all sorts of things over the years. Hard wearing, doesn't yellow, and very shiny. But you do need to take your time applying it to get a ripple free finish.

Not been brave enough to spray anything older than me though (1973)...

[inecik38]

I tried lacquer finish on the wood cabinet before but it isn't good.how must I do it for good result. please write me tecnique .

[Nickthedentist]

For the wood, a better solution for people without much experience (like me and you) might be Danish Oil.

You just rub this into the surface (bare wood or over the original finish) with a cloth, leave it for a few hours, and do the same again a few times. Then polish with a soft dry rag.

You would need to remove all of your lacquer first though.

This is an example of how good it can look, done by forum member Radio Dave: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...0&d=1184158649

Nick.

[mickjjo]

There is some good general advice on Tony Thompsons site, (Forum member Aerodyne):-

http://www.vintageradioworld.co.uk/wood%20cabinets.htm

Regards, Mick.

[Boom]

I recently saw an example of Geoff 555s restoration work to a 1920 radio using Halfords car lacquer. It was amazing. A lovely finish.

It was so good that I have asked him if he'll have a look at the Solarvox twin for me and he has very kindly offered to have a go at it.

[Colin]

I'm certainly no expert but I've had good results with spray lacquer. Good preparation and a thorough wipedown before spraying. Take your time over light coats of lacquer. Let it harden off for a day or two, gently flatten off with fine wet & dry and repeat the process half a dozen times. Slow, and a bit tedious, but with a final flat and polish it'll look great!

[inecik38]

I made with spray lacquer a few finish but it is no good. because some side is shining and another side is matt. is the temperature importent in the room when I made spray lacquer ?

[Mike Phelan]

Any sort of clear cellulose or acrylic lacquer will not give a good finish if the room is too cold (say less then 22C) - you will get a "milky" effect.

[humphrey]

You can correct the milky effect by using brass polish.

[dseymo1]

I've sucessfully used acrylic laquer to restore the fragile stuff used on a Black Box and to refinish a Murphy big console, as well as finishing a couple of home-built projects. The secret seems to be to apply as much as you can without runs or 'curtains' forming - this is of course easier if the face to be finished is horizontal. Note also that although the surface dries quickly, anything in contact with the item up to several weeks after finishing will mar it.
Another method which works well is to use polyurathane varnish, applied in the same way as French polish - i.e. rubbing on a large number of successive thin coats.

[humphrey]

Furniture or wood laquer is a different beast to anything else. It is usually cellulose based with a plasticiser. It comes either straight or pre-catalised. A basecoat is used to prime and build the thickness and allow sanding down. Topcoat laquer is available in different shines. It is generally finished off with pullover which is applied with a rubber (cloth pad) like a french polisher would use.
This is not to be confused with polyester which is another wood finish but should never ever be used without safety apparatus.
Morrells is a company that specialises in wood finishing and preparation products.

[inecik38]

dear humphrey ,thanks your interest.today I buyed a lacquer( acyrilic base) and I painted my radio with it but it isn't good, there are milky effects tomorrow I will try your recommendation( brass polish) . did you try it before on your radio?

[humphrey]

I used to repolish old pianos.

[Panrock]

Have you stripped all the old finish off before starting? Have you sanded down the bare veneers in the direction of the grain with fine sandpaper?

After that you must spray on the acrylic, on horizontally placed surfaces, in warm and dry conditions, coat by coat, rubbing down between coats with wet 400 grade emery paper.

If your set is a 1950s European 'piano-key' type (like Grundig etc.) with a very high gloss finish, you will not achieve the right finish with an acrylic lacquer. Instead, you'll need a two-part plastic lacquer to get the right finish.

To do cabinet work well requires lots of practice and experience.

Steve

[bosscock]

I've sprayed two-pack clear in the past but not on wood.. (with the right safty gear) and that shine is stunnig if a little plastic-ey...

Some car body shops will spray coats for you cheapish if you don't mind waiting (usually they will throw a few coats on for you at the end of a job to save throwing the laquer in the gun away).. £20-30 I've paid for sprayed helmets in the past..

My fear would be that the wood soaks the laquer up..meaning load of coats...

[Mike Phelan]

I would steer clear of two-pack car finishes unless you really know what you are doing - "safty gear" [sic] or not. It's very dangerous stuff.

For a very high gloss finish on cabinets, I have found that Rustin's Plastic Coating (qv Google) is very good and will give a single coat with a deep clear finish which can be compounded.

Like Steve says, whatever you use, skill is needed for best results.

[Aerodyne]

Use a pre-catalysed cellulose high gloss if working with a compressor and spray gun. Thin down with suitable thinners and use gunwash to clean the gun afterwards. The thinning is an art, really - best to experiment before committing!
If using aerosols, go for solvent based rather than water based (e.g. acrylic) for best results.
Tips: warm the aerosols by standing them in warm water for a few minutes as this helps to give a good pressure and minimise splatter. Working area should be warm and dry. Damp down dust with water mist from a garden spray bottle (trigger type) well before spraying. Use a tack rag to lift any traces of sanding dust from the wood grain. Tack rag? lint free cloth such as old cotton shirting, damped with cellulose or similar thinner.
Don't rush. Others on this thrtead have pointed out the need for patience. Your final coat can be flatted with 1000 grade wet/dry paper used wet and lubricated with a smear of block soap, dried off them rebuffed with Brasso or T-cut. This process will produce a pleasing gloss without the glare of untouched lacquer but be warned - all voids in the grain must be filled or the Brasso will dry into them and look unpleasant.
Fill voids with matching colour grainfiller or use undiluted French polish, both before lacquering.
-Tony