Rivet replacements

[SKEXIS1]

Chaps

I've decided to go for a chassis repaint on the current project!
This will involve the drilling out of the valve holder rivets.

They are the type that has the normal flat, round top and the other end looks to
Be formed using some sort of punch that peens over the edges.

Does anyone know where I can source some of these and whether there is a
Specific tool?

Thanks

Andy

[mickjjo]

Try here:-

http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/...tegoryID=55902

Or here:-

http://www.bowstock.co.uk/acatalog/Rivets.html

Regards, Mick.

[Tim]

I would just use 6BA screws, appropriate locking technology and nuts.

[SKEXIS1]

Thanks for your help!

I could use small machine screws with nuts etc, but want to retain the original look of the chassis, so think the rivets will be the way forward.

I think that I might try and source some semi-tubular rivets as I imagine these will be easier to peen over using a hammer, or some sort of punch. I won't be completely removing all of the components under the chassis, instead I will push the valve holders down so that a piece of card can be slid between the holder and the underneath of the chassis; that way the holder is masked off and the paint can go on no problem.

I think that riveting after this will then give a nice finish (i.e I'd prefer the rivets not to be painted).

Worth a try! Of course, if I were feeling more inclined, I could completely strip the chassis down, but don't quite feel brave enough for that......!

[AlanBeckett]

Potentially I like that first link because I have a similar problem with an ancient EKCO Power unit I have - there's a thread. My problem is that it's all riveted together so the only way to get at anything in order to investigate/fix it is to drill out the rivets. However, in view of the prices I think some small nuts and screws might be the solution in the short term.

[Aerodyne]

You may find as I have - that finding rivets isn't difficult, but finding the tools to set them with definitely is. Your originals will have been set by machine, not hand, with a dedicated snap/set tool to keep the top and underside in exact alignment. I sometimes use pop rivets as replacements. I know they are not ideal but the are nearer original than nuts and bolts.
-Tony

[geofy]

Originally Posted by SKEXIS1

Chaps

I've decided to go for a chassis repaint on the current project!
This will involve the drilling out of the valve holder rivets.

If the rivets are still good why not just mask them off, a dab of Vaseline and some masking tape. Why take out perfectly good rivets, they will never be quite the same if you try to replace them, and it won't affect the chassis appearance to any great degree.

Geof

[Panrock]

Or simply rub a spot of thinners on to the rivets afterwards using a Q-tip, then clean off using the other end...

[SKEXIS1]

Good ideas - hadn't thought of the Vaseline one!

I think you're right; I'm going to remove as much as possible (i.e large cap cans, IF transformer cans, possibly the tuning cap) then mask off the rest carefully and see how that goes.

I think a spray finish would be the best - a smoothrite do you think? Or possibly an acrylic car paint? The original finish was unpainted, but I think it will be nice in a light grey.

[geofy]

If the rivets where removed the stress of hammering in new rivets would risk damaging components.

I am sure I have seen small self adhesives circles that could be put over the rivets, or a hole punch could make them from punching holes on masking tape and retrieving the circles. Or just paint the rivets.

Paints sprays like Finnigans No1 rust beater make an excellent base for mild steel chassis, but aluminium would need a specialist paint.

Make drawings of connections and bits removed as you will never remember where they all go back, best to keep removal to a minimum, if it works now why disturb it, use a brush to paint round things instead.

Geof

[Sean Williams]

Normal Halfords areosols - Smoothrite is awful stuff - used it once, never again - goes on like treacle!

[Billy T]

If you plan on painting a chassis that was originally bare metal, substantive originality will be lost forever anyway, at which point worrying about bolts vs rivets is straining at a gnat IMHO. They will never be noticed against the non-original paint job.

Just another perspective on the question.

Cheers

Billy

[geofy]

Originally Posted by Sean Williams

Normal Halfords areosols - Smoothrite is awful stuff - used it once, never again - goes on like treacle!

It is really intended for much more robust applications to give good coverage, and had to be sprayed on sparingly to stop runs as, yes, it can go gloopy. But Finnigans paints will give years of protection, maybe the hammerite finish would be better for chassis's.

Geof

[Aerodyne]

I've used spray-on smoothrite and have been very pleased with the result. I also like spray hammerite as Geof mentions, but I think that for vintage valve chassis, smoothrite is the better choice. I would not use either in brushing form - far too thick and messy.
One advantage of either of the Finnegans aerosol paints is that no undercoat is needed. Normal aerosol paints need a suitable priming undercoat, as they are 'conventional' in being thin and translucent, but they too give very good results. I've used Halfords quite a lot over the years for both types of paint aerosol.
-Tony

[Tim]

Smoothrite or Hamerite can be thinned slightly with the relevant thinners, and if applied over a coat of red oxide primer goes on beautifully.

[geofy]

Originally Posted by Billy T

They will never be noticed against the non-original paint job.

Just another perspective on the question.

Cheers

Billy

I would tend to agree with that, unless it is to stop something deteriorating once something is changed it is no longer the original part. Some things may need renewing but others can be left alone.

geof