Replacing bearings in a TEAC

[ITAM805]

Hi all

has anyone attempted to change the bearings on such a motor as this one, the R/H spool from a TEAC A3340? This is an early 70's model and doesn't have a 'lube tube' that the later ones had, but oiling hasn't made much difference to the noisy bearings anyway

Any thoughts guys?

[TIMTAPE]

I have an A 2340R here. I checked it and it has the two lube tubes per motor. I'd thought the lube tubes were on the earlier models and removed on the later. I've never replaced any bearings in TEAC reel to reel machines - yet.
Are they plain bearings in the 3340 motors?

Tim

[ITAM805]

Hi Tim, thanks for the reply, a 100+ views with no comments was a record - even for one of my posts!

Yes happily the motor uses common or garden 20mm x 8mm shielded ball bearings, so no surprise oiling wouldn't have helped. I will do a full write up when the new ones arrive. I dont know if the tubes were phased out later or not, I seem to recall they were fitted on a TEAC/Tascam mastering machine I once owned but cant recall exactly what model it was*?

edit* it was a TEAC A-6100

Cheers

[ITAM805]

Bearing replacement turned out to be not too difficult with the right tools, primarily a small puller.

Disassembly. Desolder the 4 motor leads from the PCB, noting their position. Remove the 2 brake band cover screws and take it off. With a sharpie, mark around the 3 screws that hold the brake assembly (to aid refitting) then remove them and take it off complete with the wiring harness. Loosen the set screw and work the brake drum off the shaft.

With the motor now free of the machine undo the 4 long set screws and separate the motor body.

The reel table mounting boss initially would not budge so I got the blowtorch on it for about a minute after which it slid off smoothly. Turned that there was some sort of Loctite holding it. The bearing was tight on the shaft even with lubricant and the little puller looked like it might not manage, but it eventually came off.

Removing the rear bearing proved more difficult. Unfortunately the puller reach was too short and the bearing had a too small gap behind it to allow my bigger puller legs to fit. But I had a Baldrick moment, I placed a spanner under the bearing and clamped the spanner to the workmate and then gave the shaft a few hefty taps, enough to eventually move the bearing down the shaft, allowing the puller to do the rest. Both bearings were now off

[ITAM805]

Not having a suitable drift to hand I fitted the new bearings by stacking 8mm washers (and a big nut) and utilising an 8mm socket and bar and tapping the bearing down the shaft.

The longest part of this job was fitting the finished motor back nto the machine, dropping the screws inside the gubbins and trying to fish them out etc ! Anyway, job done, the motor on fast forward no longer sounds like a skateboard in a subway!

[TIMTAPE]

Great explanation and photos. Bookmarked for if and when I have to do the same job.

Tim