Bush SRP59. Deck removal.

[Martin Bush]

I may be missing something very simple here, but I can't work out how to get the deck out of the Bush srp59.

I've managed to get the platter off no problem and gained access to the pots with ease. But the arm isn't travelling as far as it should and so I need to get the deck out.

Any pointers?

As I recall it's very easy to do this on my RP60, but the SRP59 seems to be glued together (surely not).

[Nuvistor]

A few photos may jog a memory for someone.

Frank

[Nuvistor]

Just found a photo, if you can get at the pots, i.e. remove the amplifier with controls. Could you use a long screwdriver to flip the toggles on the transit screws and lift the deck out.?
Frank

[Martin Bush]

Hi Frank.

I have reached in and got hold of the nearest transit screw, but couldn't find a way of freeing it (I've loosened the screw of course). Of course I was doing it blind and hampered by the other screw on the other corner.

Do you think that is the way though? I did think of that, but couldn't see the shape of the transit lock or hole it goes through.

If not it looks like the deck was put in the plinth then the whole thing glued up, which can't be the case.

Let's see if the pictures I took will attach... What I am trying to show is that there's no visible way to take out the plinth or deck or otherwise dismantle the unit bar taking the front off, which I've done.

Martin

[Nuvistor]

I can only cooment how many decks were fixed to the plinth. Screw the transit screws into normal playing position with the deck sprung. Press down to compress the spring over the screw and toggle the spring clip underneath the deck through 90 degrees. This line will it up with the hole in the plinth. Do this for both transit screws but the one at the back will require a long screwdriver or similar to toggle the clip..
You will probably have to disconnect the wires from the deck to fully remove it.

I have not seen this player but there were others players, Grams etc. that required this treatment.

Again there may be another way and if someone knows they will respond but you should be able to remove the deck this way.
Frank

Edit . Not very clear but a photo of a toggle clip.

[Martin Bush]

I will have a go soon along the lines you suggest. I'd guessed that could be the way, but having got nowhere I decided to pack it away to avoid mucking it up through frustration.

The problem I am seeking to fix is that the tonearm doesn't want to go all the way to the run out groove. No doubt I will need to do a post on that soon too! The good news is that I cured the crackling pots, which is what it was initially brought to me with.

I will report back soon re the deck removal.

[Nuvistor]

Some other info that may help, different player but similar problem, hopefully you won't need to remove the clip, I never had to.
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ease+turntable
Frank

[peter_sol]

Getting the deck out will not help you. The problem is with the trip pawl which is on the large cog under the platter (turntable) which you have already removed.
see this thread.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...hp?t=112708you

[Martin Bush]

Thanks Peter. I did wonder about that. The inside of the deck itself was quite clean and the visible grease in fair condition so I didn't spend too much time on it, but thinking back I can see where I should have spent more time.

That said I am still intrigued as to how the deck comes out.

[Nickthedentist]

Hi Martin,

I agree with the others. Remove the aluminium panel(s) at the front of the machine, shine a torch so you can see under the deck, and flip the clip on the nearest transit screw from horizontal to vertical.

You may have to repeat this with the rear clip too, or the motor board may be cut so that the second screw can be freed by sliding it through a slot by wiggling the deck in a "south easterly" direction, as opposed to turning its clip.

I'd be happy to have a look for you and show you the trip pawl's tricks too when we (eventually) meet up again.

N.

[ms660]

I don't suppose it's of the sliding cheek design?

Lawrence.

[Techman]

I agree that the problem is just a case of cleaning the trip pawl accessible beneath the platter only, so in the absence of other problems, then there's no need to remove the entire deck.

I would have thought you would have known that the trip pawl is always the first thing to look at on nearly any deck of this type as I seem to remember having a discussion with you at least a couple of years ago as regards to the instructional 'sticky' threads at the top of this section with regards to servicing, and how you were going to download them and save them to a special file for reading and digesting - or something like that?

[Martin Bush]

Thanks Techman.

Yes, I do recall that conversation and I did as I said I would. As you point out, that may have been two years ago and I should point out that this is only the second deck that I have ventured inside.

Thank you for the reminder and apologies for taking up your time then and now.

[GeoffK]

Originally Posted by Martin Bush

The problem I am seeking to fix is that the tonearm doesn't want to go all the way to the run out groove.
I will report back soon re the deck removal.

A similar fault with a 2025TC deck was caused by a lever bearing in a sleeve bush that should have been able to rotate, was seized solid not allowing the pick up arm to move toward the centre of the turntable. Freeing the seized bush, that wasn't to obvious as to which part was actually seized, and lubricating with LM grease fixed it and the arm was free to run out and reject properly, been working ever since. You should be able to gain access to the turntable mounting screws if the front can be removed. Does the wooden base slide out from the front, it may have to be levered out.

[Martin Bush]

Thanks Geoff.

I will hopefully soon have the service info to hand so will take a more considered approach to the player when I have that. It seems to be a nice deck - shame it's not mine!

[Station X]

What I'm not sure of Martin is whether you're saying that the arm lifts prematurely before the run out groove is reached or it locks before reaching run out groove.

[John10b]

Hi
It could be two sliding levers (not sure what they are called, post 11 said cheeks ).
I came across this on a Sony music centre. You will see them after removing platter.
Regards John

[Martin Bush]

This is a problem I only noticed yesterday.

You see the player was given to me to sort the scratchy pots - I've sorted this. I tried a record and it played fine, so then I decided to move the arm on a little to activate the auto return.

This is when I noticed that it only wanted to go so far. I am presuming that it wants to lift as that is the feedback I was feeling from the the arm. However I didn't want to scratch the record (OK, it's a duffer I use for this purpose), force anything or damage the stylus (again, it needs changing, but still I prefer not to damage it).

I appreciate this is guesswork to some extent, but I will know more when I get it open again. I strongly suspect that the trip pawl is the key here and I will pay proper attention to that when I open the machine up next time.

My original question was about removing the deck and I think I am on the way to answering that one, even though it is not necessarily relevant.

[ms660]

By sliding cheeks I was referring to getting into the player, as in I wonder if the sides (cheeks) slide/push off.

Lawrence.

[Techman]

With you now saying that you moved the arm in manually to activate the auto return - presumably it didn't activate it (?) but stopped before the run out groove was reached, then this does now sound like there may be another fault and the deck needs to come out. However, I personally would still be removing just the platter to check on the motion of the mechanism that can be viewed from the top BEFORE going to all the trouble of trying to get the whole deck out.

To add - I haven't personally worked on this particular model of record player, so can't give a description on removal, but with a little time taken it can usually be worked out - these Bush things often involve removal of the front.