Creda Carefree - Oven Elements Not Working

[RadioRevival]

Hi All,
My Creda Carefree Oven has decided it doesn't want to heat up currently. There is no heat to the elements at all. Mysteriously the light bulb isn't working and I need to check (I don't have my trusted multimeter to hand currently) whether the bulb has simply blown.
All other components including all four hobs, grill and warming drawer work.
Please find attached some images as well.
Any suggestions and advice is appreciated.

[Herald1360]

If you can round up a mains light bulb, holder and some wire you could try connecting the bulb across the connections to each element to see if power's reaching them when the oven is supposed to be on. If it is, the elements are dead, if it isn't you need to look at the control switch and wiring.

This would be much easier with a meter- a cheap one can be had for not much more than the aforementioned test lamp setup.

[RadioRevival]

Just a quick update.
So I acquired a multimeter and the bulb has continuity.
The heating elements also have a continuity of between 44.5 and 45 ohms.
So must be somewhere along the circuit effecting both the oven light and oven heating elements.
As stated before all other hob and grill elements function normally.
Any suggestions on where to look next would be great.
Also if someone could help explain how to dismantle the back panel as I'm having real trouble working out how to fully remove it!
Warm regards,

[Ed_Dinning]

It is not unknown for the control switch to get burnt/ open circuit contacts.
E spares usually have replacement units

Ed

[Graham G3ZVT]

Like Ed, I would first see if power is getting to the oven before suspecting the oven itself.

The usual practice is an exclusive radial circuit from its own fuse or breaker in the consumer unit, to a switch or "cooker control unit" near the appliance.

Is that the set-up you have? Has the switch got a neon indicator? Is it lit when switched on?

[high_vacuum_house]

Sounds like the cooker is receiving a supply as the other rings are working correctly.
I cannot see the wiring diagram clearly though if the lamp and element come on together, then I would be looking upstream where both the element and lamp are common together before the supply intake. I would suspect an O/C switch contact or a loose or burnt terminal on the cookers supply distribution panel would cause this.

Christopher Capener

[Graham G3ZVT]

Originally Posted by high_vacuum_house

Sounds like the cooker is receiving a supply as the other rings are working correctly.


Christopher Capener

Apologies to all. Specsaver appointment booked.

[Bobdger]

Is the oven timer switched to auto cook?. Bob

[The Philpott]

I did wonder if it was set to timer, and the timer set to zero.

[its ur aerial]

Its unlikely both Elements have gone O/C, but when checking them for continuity, its always worth disconnecting them first to prevent ambiguous readings, back through the Circuit.
Another thing that can be confusing when live fault finding on many Appliances is they often switch the Neutral not the Live, not sure if this one does. But its worth remembering, as this can also lead one down the wrong path.
And one final comment, sorry to mention Elf & Safety, but cheap test meters are ok, to a point but, but when live fault finding with "mickey mouse", cheap Test leads, be very careful, ok for low power, but when its 240 volt 32 Amp supply, use good ones, in theory they should really comply with the GS38 standard .
Personally I am not a great fan of fused Test leads, but always use high quality ones .

Ken, G6HZG.

[bionicmerlin]

In a case like this 9 out of 10 times it’s the timer (time switch) not set to manual.
When I used to repair cookers many years ago . The number of phone calls I got with this problem. If it was a existing customer and sometimes new I would allways tell them what to try first.
I could of made a fortune if I didn’t tell them and just went out on a repair. I think in the long run it paid off in customer loyalty. Andy