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Homebrew Equipment A place to show, design and discuss the weird and wonderful electronic creations from the hands of individual members. |
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18th Oct 2015, 3:12 pm | #1 |
Octode
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Penrith, Cumbria, UK
Posts: 1,993
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Paint curing.
Anybody here tried using the domestic oven to help dry/cure spray paint?
The paint I have used is a standard grey etch primer which had 24 hours to air dry before i put 3 thin coats of "Plasti Kote" spray enamel in antique gold on the chassis. I had a notion to try the oven at about 50 Celsius for about an hour. I figured that as the paint has a maximum temperature rating of 120 Celsius I would be safe and I could dry the paint before putting a Laquer coat on top. The paint can says it's enamel, but I figure from the smell of the solvent vehicle that its an Acrylic like the Humbrol stuff I normally use but couldnt get in the colour I wanted. I am Painting the Chassis of my Leak TL25+ clones in as similar a colour as I can get to the classic Leak Gold colour. Which did tend to vary slightly over the years I reckon. Thought it was appropriate as a "tribute amp" Andy. |
18th Oct 2015, 3:48 pm | #2 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Wigan, Greater Manchester, UK.
Posts: 9,428
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Re: Paint curing.
Gas or electric? Gas produces a lot of moisture.
Frank |
18th Oct 2015, 3:57 pm | #3 |
Octode
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Penrith, Cumbria, UK
Posts: 1,993
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Re: Paint curing.
Electric fan Oven.
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18th Oct 2015, 6:45 pm | #4 |
Octode
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, UK.
Posts: 1,082
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Re: Paint curing.
Beware !!!!
the fumes could be explosive !! The LEL lower explosion limit may be reached I don't want to frighten any one but I did work on intrinsically safe equipment for a large no of years this is a real risk Trev |
18th Oct 2015, 6:57 pm | #5 |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Coningsby, Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 2,814
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Re: Paint curing.
I have been known to use a hot air gun at a distance so as to just warm the painted object, too much heat and the paint starts bubbling! I've also left painted things on top of my workshop heater, which is a little 1KW greenhouse fan heater, it generates a gentle heat that doesn't burn things, a normal convector heater would NOT be recommended at all!
If your going to use your oven, I'd leave the oven door slightly open to let the fumes out, and also open doors and windows too. Might make your food taste funny afterwards... Regards, Lloyd |
18th Oct 2015, 6:57 pm | #6 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Paint curing.
I do it quite often, 100C is about right, let it dry off for a few minutes first otherwise the solvent bubbles and ruins the finish. Also don't hurry up porous things like wood the air inside expands leading to a lovely bubble finish.
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18th Oct 2015, 9:21 pm | #7 |
Octode
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Penrith, Cumbria, UK
Posts: 1,993
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Re: Paint curing.
Thats what I did Merlin, the chassis went in once the paint was touch dry. Didnt get much of a pong, and I gave it an hour at 60 celsius. The stuff I am using is supposed to be fully dry/hardened after 24 hours but I "hae ma doots".
Andy. |
18th Oct 2015, 9:45 pm | #8 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Shropshire, UK.
Posts: 3,051
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Re: Paint curing.
I've used an infra-red lamp for this (vintage 'Infraphil'), which works well. Don't get it to close though.
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19th Oct 2015, 11:52 am | #9 |
Octode
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 1,783
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Re: Paint curing.
Hi. When ever I paint using spray cans I heat the object with a heat gun, not too hot but warmed through. Spray the item then let it dry naturally. If it needs a further coat or varnish.. same thing.. use heat gun to warm, then spray.
With my Eddystone 750 it was much easier, I took it to be processed professionally, sand blasted then powder coated.
__________________
Should get out more. Regards Wendy G8BZY |
19th Oct 2015, 9:05 pm | #10 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wiltshire, UK.
Posts: 13,953
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Re: Paint curing.
Unless it's stated as being a 'thermal-cure' paint (or two-pack isocyanate) I prefer to spray at room-temperature and then let time do the necessary drying. Patience is a virtue! Don't re-coat until the first coat is truly hard.
Biggest enemy I've found for getting a good finish is high humidity: the paint on exiting the spray-nozzle is cold - velocity-enhanced solvent evaporation at the nozzle condenses any moisture from the air before the paint hits the surface being painted. You then get water trapped under the paint-film, and a mess. if you can't access a proper environmentally-controlled spraybooth, get yourself a dehumidifier and run it until relative-humidity's below 40% before spraying. |
20th Oct 2015, 2:58 pm | #11 |
Nonode
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Nuneaton, Warwickshire, UK.
Posts: 2,034
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Re: Paint curing.
Years ago, I sprayed an aluminium panel by heating it in our cooker oven ( gas ) on a lowish heat, and then spraying it. It made the paint stick better and the finish was a lot smoother than without the heating.
Cheers Aub
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Life's a long song, but the tune ends too soon for us all. |
20th Oct 2015, 7:21 pm | #12 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Shropshire, UK.
Posts: 3,051
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Re: Paint curing.
Preheating also works very well when applying synthetic brushing lacquer to metal. Warm both the panel (or whatever it is) and the lacquer (gently), then pour a pool of laquer onto the panel. Quickly tilt and swirl to ensure even coverage - the lacquer becomes almost water-thin - and leave to dry. Results are far superior to brushing.
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