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Old 24th Apr 2018, 6:08 am   #1
Diabolical Artificer
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Default Soldering iron tinning.

I have a Weller TCP with a "9" temperature designation, that's 480 deg C - see here for list of tips - http://www.abtehnik.si/attachments/Konice/PT.pdf Despite my attempts at tinning the tip, the solder won't take unless I dip the tip in flux, then apply solder. The tip goes dark blue, the same blue AFAIK that indicates a metal will have a springy temper when tempering knives etc.

What is the procedure when first heating the tip? I've heard you should apply solder as the tip warms for the first time. I've also heard that it's a good idea to apply solder so the tip is "wet" when you put the iron in its rest.

Any tips? Ho ho ho.

Andy.
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Old 24th Apr 2018, 7:44 am   #2
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

I have the same iron and I find a no.9 tip too way too hot for general work. I normally use no.7. I only use no.9 for work on large heatsinks or anywhere the heat will be taken away rapidly. As soon as I apply solder to the tip, the flux burns away in a large cloud of smoke, spitting angrily and the solder turns dark grey. The only time it will tin nicely is when it's cooling down!
Mark.
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Old 24th Apr 2018, 8:43 am   #3
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

No. 9 bits tarnish very quickly if left on and are only really suitable for special jobs.

Switch on, tin tip, do job and switch off.

I use a multicore tip tinner something like this:-

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solde...ories/5078698/ though the one I have is many years old and appears to be no longer available.
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Old 24th Apr 2018, 10:21 am   #4
David Simpson
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

As Mark says, 480 deg is hellish high, Andy. 350 - 360 deg for most valve circuitry soldering using a 4mm bit. For semi-conductor work & a 2 or 3mm bit - say 340 deg max. That's using good old 60-40 flux-cored solder. Lead-free solder does need slightly higher temperatures but most vintage radio folk don't use it I suspect.
Why do you need 480 deg ?

Regards, David
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Old 25th Apr 2018, 12:59 pm   #5
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

A # 9 is hot as you say, sometimes though I prefer a very hot tip to get in quick, make a joint and scram, to having a tip that takes time to heat up the job causing wire insulation to melt etc. It's good for HS removal/securing big lugs too as stated.

"Switch on, tin tip, do job and switch off." That's about right. Sounds like a tarnished tip is "normal" with a #9.

Andy.
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Old 25th Apr 2018, 1:11 pm   #6
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

Even with a No. 8 tip (800°F), solder on the tip oxidises pretty fast. Wiping the tip prior to tinning, you get less than a second of shiny surface.

With a No. 9 tip (900°F), that's 55°C hotter still, I can imagine less time! Fine for high melting point solder maybe (93% lead, melts at 296 - 301°C) though even so I find a No. 8 tip works for me. Desoldering from a HMP-soldered joint, now yes, there could be a real need for the extra degrees.
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Old 25th Apr 2018, 4:02 pm   #7
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

Hi

I remember being told that a new tip should be tinned as it heats up then disconnect the soldering iron and allow to cool down. The tip is then ready for normal use. I guess it is something to do with oxidisation if allowed to reach too high a temperature before tinning. I believe the problem is made worse with iron clad bits. The old copper bits didn't seem to be affected as much. I always use 60% tin / 40% lead solder for my repairs and construction projects.

Regards
Symon.
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Old 25th Apr 2018, 4:28 pm   #8
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

Use a number 7 and save the number 9 for special occasions

Don't use an extra hot tip for cases where you really need a bigger iron. The iron plating blues and doesn't last so long, the solder oxidises and introduces it to your joints.

I have the bigger brothers to the TCP1 for special occasions - 100W and 200W which work superbly on screening cans and even plumbing!

David
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Old 25th Apr 2018, 5:13 pm   #9
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

400 deg plus is more for domestic/industrial size cabling - 2.5, 4.0, 6.0, 10.0 mmSq. plus, etc. Most vintage radio wiring is in the 0.5 to 1.0mmSq(or the SWG equiv.)max. As David says - just use a normal iron with a suitable small bit. At the lower temp of 350 deg, when you've finished your soldering - wipe the bit clean of congealed solder/flux, tin it with some 60/40 then immediately switch off. Then another quick wipe. The bit will remain nice & shiny for days/weeks.
Naval Artificers(Tiffy's) I've known in the past, always boasted about their hot tips. Must be something to do with being out at sea for months on end. (Just banter).

Regards, David
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Old 26th Apr 2018, 6:25 am   #10
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

So oxidisation is normal with a hot tip.

"I remember being told that a new tip should be tinned as it heats up then disconnect the soldering iron and allow to cool down. " I've heard this too, but forgot to do so with this particular tip.

Just to clarify, I mostly use lower temp tips for day to day work, though prefer hotter tips (trying not to smirk after reading Davids last comment about Naval Artificers). I wonder if my method is off. I tend to be a bit stingy with solder, trying not to waste it. Will have a play and a think.

Andy.
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Old 26th Apr 2018, 11:18 am   #11
David Simpson
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

Best thing Andy, is to have a practice with some gash lengths of wire. Say 0.5 or 0.75 PVC insulated flex. Twist & tin the bare ends at approx. 350 deg. with 60/40 solder. Then practice soldering them to some old tag strips or veroboard at temperatures between 340 & 360. You'll find with veroboard that the perforated copper strips will start to de-laminate with temps above 360 deg. Tags are usually pre-tinned, and some of the older ones were cadmium plated. But leaving a hot tip of above 360 deg on them for too long will result in the paxolin boarding beginning to carbonise & the tags coming loose in their holes. (There is a NAVY joke there somewhere).
A couple of years ago I was given some industrial printed circuit boards out of u/s PSU's. The heavily lead-free soldered components just could not be removed. Even at 400 deg. Tried an old Weller h/duty 1/2" bitted soldering iron. Loads of fumes - component encapsulation started to melt - still wouldn't budge. So gave up. Carefully hacksawed the components out along with a bit of circuit board, and used 6BA nuts & bolts to make connections for tags.
Years ago, when working for the Hydro-Board, before hydraulic crimping tools were used, we used gas fired crucibles of pure lead for tinning & soldering big heavy sub-station cabling. 175, 200, 225mm sq. etc. Cable ends & lugs were dipped in Bakers Flux first, then quickly dunked into the bubbling liquid lead. God knows what the temp was, but a thick film of lead-oxide would soon form if the gas was left on for too long.
Over 55 years ago, when being taught soldering & tinning RAF radio wiring & tags etc., practice pieces would be held in a vice for the instructor to examine. If it wasn't up to his high standard - then "wollop" - his hammer quickly smashed your endeavours to bits !

Regards, David
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Old 26th Apr 2018, 11:53 am   #12
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Default Re: Soldering iron tinning.

I regard my temperature controlled irons as precision instrument, run at 340 to 360 max. I keep them for what they were intended, pcb and fine wire work. Really for old radio work with tag strips they do not have the reserves of heat to quickly unsolder wrapped wires.
For anything heavier I have a few larger ordinary irons with bigger bits hence more heat to transfer rather than running at a higher temperature and oxidizing the bits. Its the mass of the bit that makes the difference. My 150w monster does punched chassis earth tags quickly all day long.
The old copper bolt on a gas ring is still the best for heavy work like tin plate construction.
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