Ever Ready Sky Queen battery eliminator.

[Subhamitra509]

Hi, New to all this.

Have a sky Queen, no batteries just the 4 pin plug. Saw one on eBay with a conversion to use 240VAC any info would be grateful.

Thanks.

[Cobaltblue]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

you can build your own
https://www.vintage-radio.com/projec...y-set-psu.html

One of the problems is most don't come with the correct socket since there were so many different types.

The other thing is your set is more than 60 years old, it will need some parts replacing for it to work properly.

Before you do anything you need to check the valves for filament continuity. They are prone to filament failure due to someone trying to get the set working with a PP9

If you are un-familiar with valves we can talk you through.

Once restored and working the Sky Queen is a nice set.

Is it the early or late model?

https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/ever_sky_queen.html

https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/ever_sky_queen_ii.html

Cheers

Mike T

[Subhamitra509]

Many thanks, I believe early set. Unable to add a picture.

[HamishBoxer]

Welcome to the forum,yes as stated those 1.4volt valves are delicate and it must be 1.4 volts no more.The circuit shown on the link is superb and works a treat,I built 2 at this end.

[Subhamitra509]

I was hoping it could have been as easy as buy one of those cheap plug in transforers that drop to 9 volt. Did not realise need 2 different power ranges.

Would it be possible to use 2 of these suitable plug in cheap ones ?

Costs to build one outweighs the set's value really.

Available from China for £1.50 each posted, was reason I first bought this set.

Have another to collect VHF61 proper job I suppose.

[Cobaltblue]

I could be wrong but I don't think I have ever seen a 1.5V or 90V wall warts.

You could use batteries from Poundland.

A pair of D size and 5 packs (2 in each of PP3's) and you have your HT and LT. so £6 all in.

The problem is your still likely to have to repair the set.

And you need to be careful if the filaments get as much as a wiff of the HT they will go open circuit.

These valves were very efficient requiring very little power and were at the very end of the road for valves in portable radios.

Depending what you are trying to achieve you could leave the Radio in place and fit a bluetooth module/ smart speaker inside the case.

There's plenty of room since the original battery was pretty big

Let us know which way you want to go and we will try to help.

Cheers

Mike T

[Electronpusher0]

There is a seller on e-bay selling assembled pcbs to convert battery valve sets to 240V
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-E...0AAOSw0P5eMXD4
I have no affiliation with this seller and hope I am not violating the forum rules by posting a link. Other vendors may be available.

Peter

[Herald1360]

Enough detailed pics there for a bit of reverse engineering!

Looks like a rather lossy regulator from 15V or so bridge rectified dc from one 12V secondary for the 1.4V LT supply plus a voltage quadrupler on the other 12V secondary giving about 67V for a rather low 90V HT.

About as simple as it could be without needing a custom transformer to give more useful secondary voltages.

It bears a remarkable resemblance to the circuit in the link in post #2 too.....

[batterymaker1]

Too bad you can't find an Amplion Convette...

[Subhamitra509]

Thanks for info, The conversion diagram looks good and the aftermarket conversion box looks great, but £30 each. Think I may just go for the 6 batteries for HT and then 2 for the LT.
China does those clips for the 9V batteries in tens for £2.40 and to make up a nice box for them is easier.

What's the best method to test before adding this power set up? Can I check the LT side with one battery? Sounds like too much and it's ruined.

Obviously I do not have much more than a cheapo multi meter and hand tools.

Visual inspection all looks quite clean, nothing looks burnt or marked. Case etc really good, so proceeding with caution. Thanks.

[Herald1360]

You can check the valve filaments with your cheapo multimeter. Check for a lowish resistance (<20 ohms) between pins 1 and 7 (the pins either side of the gap) on each valve. Open circuit = dead.


A single alkaline D cell is plenty for test purposes and in any case can just be replaced as required if you use the set regularly. Two C cells in parallel may be more convenient for packaging purposes if that's a consideration.


For HT, 10 PP3s in series will give the full 90V for normal use though seven or eight should be OK for testing. The mixer valve (DK96) may not work on too low an HT if it's getting tired, though.


Have fun but beware..... 90V even from tiddly PP3s will bite if you're not careful

[Cobaltblue]

Hi Yes 1 D cell is more than enough for the filaments

Unfortunately looking clean isn't enough.

This set has several paper capacitors and over time they absorb moisture and go electrically leaky. In some stages this isn't too much of a problem but it causes serious problems when it's a grid coupling capacitor such as C21 (manufacturer's number).

The other problem is that battery sets contain more than their fair share of high value resistors. These go even higher in value upsetting the DC conditions within stages causing instability and poor gain.

You should certainly test anything above 1Mohm this set has 5 I think.

Worth checking valve filament continuity before you spend any money.

Note you won't see these valves light up. they run at very low power.

Crossed with Chris

Cheers

Mike T

[60 oldjohn]

For test purpose this is how I use the batteries. I find new batteries are near 10v so I use only 9. For connection to the first and last battery instead of soldering direct you can use single clips from the top of a flat battery, soldering to them will do no harm. I have also included view of the connectors, they have HT+ HT- and LT+ LT- printed on them. I also try to get the LT circuit working with one 1.5v battery (drawing xx ma) before applying HT. Last photos are the MK2 left, right MK1, I hope the photos help. I wish you luck with your set.

John.

[Subhamitra509]

So far just used one 1.5V battery for LT. Nothing so tried two, all the valves show faint light.

So will have to see when it's possible to venture out and get some 9V ones.

[Cobaltblue]

Please Note #12

You should not see the valves light except very dimly in a darkened room.

I guess you used a D or C cell perhaps even an AA

If the valves have visibly lit you may have already damaged them.

The HT on this set is 90V the LT batteries if you use more than one must go in parallel not series.

the LT on these sets is a nominal 1.5V

Cheers

Mike T

1.5V for filaments. 9V will make them glow and ruin them.

[Subhamitra509]

It was just AA ones.

[Techman]

The 'Sky Queen' was my one of my first 'proper' radios, bought from a jumble sale I think, when I was a youngster and the battery (LT/HT all in one) could still be bought from the local electrical shop. It worked perfectly because it was probably only a ten year old radio at the time. However, decades on and this radio is likely to need quite a bit of work to get it going. I'm not one for replacing components just for the sake of it, but in the case of the chassis used in these sets, all of the paper type capacitors are fairly critical to its working performance and they'll all be faulty and need replacing. The large electrolytic type across the HT seems to always be dud in these sets and needs to be replaced. The output transformer is known to be dud in some of these sets and that will be relatively expensive to replace, so test it before going any further with buying parts. Then you need to ask yourself what you're going to listen to, when and if you get the set working, there's hardly anything left on AM medium and long wave these days. Having said all that, they're a great set to listen to 'Radio 4' on long wave if that's your thing, or 'Absolute Radio' on medium wave if it's still transmitting in your area - if it is, it probably won't be for much longer.

The Bush VHF61 you mentioned will need a lot of work doing before you even think about plugging it into the mains. Even if it works, it's unlikely to work for long before the big bang and a cloud of smoke, unless it's had some previous restoration work done to it. However, this set has VHF/FM, so a lot more stations available to listen to.

So to sum up - you'll need to be dedicated and prepared to learn (and spend some money), we have to be realistic about these things. You also need to learn the difference between series and parallel otherwise you're going to blow those valve heaters on that Sky Queen - remember, you should NOT be able to see them glowing other than in complete darkness where you will be able to see just the output valve glowing a dull orange on the central filament.

[60 oldjohn]

Originally Posted by 60 oldjohn

I also try to get the LT circuit working with one 1.5v battery (drawing xx ma) before applying HT.

John.

I have not got the circuit, so don't know the correct reading, I expect around 125ma. A meter in series with the valves will show how many Milliamps the valves are taking. The circuit is available top right of this page. Please take care, battery valves are expensive, especially the output valves. Please ask before doing something if you are unsure, we all had to learn somewhere. And I'm still learning!
Ps. Just seen a used DL96 for a few pence under £19 online.



John.

[Subhamitra509]

Yes it was in darkish room and faint central glow, only tried for second or two in case.

The VHF61 is supposed to be working, but I did have one of these before and replaced lots of bits as you say.

They are nice just for show if in good nick.