Restoring my first vintage television

[Radio_Dave]

My first vintage television has just arrived.

I've had zero experience with tellies and I'm sure that I'm going to need lots of help restoring it. I hope it will be OK to ask questions as and when I get stuck

Firstly... I've just treated some woodworm holes and I want to put it in an unheated garage, whilst the treatment works. Is there any chance a frost could crack or damage the tube?

David

[Dr-Watts]

I doubt it !

What is the make and model ?
Any chance of some pictures ?

Dr. Dave

[Hunts smoothing bomb]

Hello David,

Keeping the set in an unheated garage shouldn't be a problem for short term, it won't crack the tube.

As for worrying about asking too many questions......... That's what we're here for!!

All the best with the resto, watchin this space!

Cheers
Lee

[Radio_Dave]

Thanks for the replys

Here's some pictures, it's a Pageant but I can't find a model number.

I've read plenty of treads about exploding tubes and it worries me . Am I right in thinking that square tubes (like mine) are safer?

David

[Duke_Nukem]

Thermal shock might kill the CRT - I wouldn't leave an exposed CRT in an unheated garage, but inside a set with the back on should slow thermal changes. I don't think square tubes are any better (or worse) than roundies of the 50's - always wear goggles. This time of year though I'd be concerned about damp finding its way into things, particularly LOPT's.

If you have somewhere safe in the house to store the chassis I'd be tempted to remove the chassis and store indoors whilst treating the cabinet, you'll need to remove the chassis anyway if you are going to thoroughly treat the set.

TTFN,
Jon

PS : Mind if I pinch the photo for my website ?
PPS : Does it have a M*zd* CRT ?

[ppppenguin]

Don't worry about the CRT. Take sensible precautions. If you accidentally break the neck off the tube there won't be a loud bang or lots of flying glass. Just a certain amount of language that's unacceptable in the forum. Wear eye protection when removing the tube and handling it outside the set. I prefer a full face visor, as often used in chemistry labs. Heavy gloves are useful but can make it difficult to do fine work.

Beware of the EHT terminal. The capacitor formed by the inner and outer graphite coatings can recharge itself even when power is not applied. It's not harmful unless it makes you drop the tube.

Take the sensible precautions and handle the tube confidently. It won't bite. Don't act like you're scared of it. It doesn't know whether you are scared or not but if you act in a timid way you're more likely to make a mistake.

[Radio_Dave]

Originally Posted by Duke_Nukem

PS : Mind if I pinch the photo for my website ?

The photo isn't very good quality, I'll take a better one at the weekend and send you that.

Originally Posted by Duke_Nukem

PPS : Does it have a M*zd* CRT ?

I don't know, but all the other valves are Mazda. Are Mazda tubes bad?

Originally Posted by ppppenguin

Take the sensible precautions and handle the tube confidently.

Is it best to remove the tube, or leave it in place while working on the chassis?

David

[Steve_P]

Well if possible I would keep the whole thing indoors. Especially at this time of year. As long as it's out of the reach of little hands, the wife will have to live with it. How much of her rubbish is there about anyway?

Take the chassis out, and leave it while you do the cabinet. Let it dry out and get used to living indoors again. Dry out coils etc.

While it's out, look on the chassis and the back for a Model or Type No. so we can find a circuit for you.

You don't really need to take the tube out of the chassis. Take valves out, marking where they go!, and go under the chassis. Do a cap change, inspect wiring, clean the chassis, refit the valves and bring it up with a variac over several hours.

Mazda CRT's can be a problem as they aren't as good as Mullard, but they can be reactivated. Just take it more gently. But the best way to reactivate a tube after this long is to run it.

Judging by those pictures, it'll not be too hard to sort out.

If you're lucky, it'll work. If not, ASK.

Cheers,

Steve P.

[tvden]

Originally Posted by Radio_Dave

The photo isn't very good quality, I'll take a better one at the weekend and send you that.

I don't know, but all the other valves are Mazda. Are Mazda tubes bad?

Is it best to remove the tube, or leave it in place while working on the chassis?

David

I always try and leave the tube on the chassis where possible as I dont like disturbing anymore bits than I have to

Pagent were sold through the Co-Op and will prob have a Plessey chassis

[ppppenguin]

Some may disagree but Mazda tubes are usually considered short lived compared to Mullard.

If the CRT is solidly attached to the chassis then leave it in place for minor works. I would remove it to do a major chassis cleanup where you need good access to all areas. Full re-capping under the chassis? Maybe. If you can prop the chassis securely with the tube in place then removing it doesn't seem worthwhile.

[oldeurope]

Originally Posted by Radio_Dave

Thanks for the replys

Here's some pictures, it's a Pageant but I can't find a model number.

I've read plenty of treads about exploding tubes and it worries me . Am I right in thinking that square tubes (like mine) are safer?

David

Hi David,
is ist a P/EABC80 on the bottom left of the picture?
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...9&d=1199712026

Kind regards,
Darius

[Steve_P]

Could be. It seems to have HOME, THIRD and LIGHT on the tuner. So it probably decodes AM and FM.

Oh, and I forgot.... www.oldtellys.co.uk

Cheers,

Steve P.

[Radio_Dave]

Hi Darius,

The valve at the bottom left (near the speaker in the photo) is a 30F5

David

[Steve_P]

List the valves for me. I'll see which have equivalents and which dont. Also it'll help me find a circuit diagram if I've got one or it's on the disks.

Cheers,

Steve P.

[oldeurope]

Originally Posted by Radio_Dave

Hi Darius,

The valve at the bottom left (near the speaker in the photo) is a 30F5

David

Ah, thanks.
This is fine.
Kind regards,
Darius

[Radio_Dave]

It's back indoors, to stay

I've had a good look but I can't find a model number on it anywhere.

It's an AC DC set and I've found a label saying it has a Plessey Turret Tuner. I'm guessing that the tube is 15"

Here's the valve line up; 6D2, 30F5, 30F5, EF85, 6D2, 30L1, 30C1, 30F5, 30PL1, 30FL1, PCL82, 30P4, U191, U25 & PY32

Thanks
David

[Steve_P]

6D2 = EB91
30F5 = PF818
30L1 = PCC84
30C1 = PCF80
30PL1 = PCL801
30FL1 = PCE800
30P4 = N306. No P.... Valve listed.
U191 = PY301
U25 = KY50 (EHT Rectifier I think. Not the same as an EY51. Different Heater Volts.)

Got a set PAGEANT P50. It's got a Defiant equivalent. Have the ERT Service Chart for it.

Cheers,

Steve P.

[Sideband]

That is a pretty standard valve line-up. It obviously doesn't have a separate FM tuner so uses the TV IF's for FM and probably one of the 6D2's as the discrimninator. The valves remind me of Ekco...virtually identical to a T283 that I used to have.



Rich.

[chipp1968]

It looks basically the same chassis as my old defiant and is the only set i attempted work on with a mate .Its a realy nice chassis to work on and Mine was very reliable afterwards . I think they made this chassis for a number of years in different cabinets.

[Radio_Dave]

I've attached a picture of the underside of the chassis. It looks nice and clean and I can't find any evidence of previous work of tampering, so hopefully I should be able to get it working.

... However, I've never encountered so many 'change on sight' capacitors and electrolytics in my life. This could take me a while!

David