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Cabinet and Chassis Restoration and Refinishing For help with cabinet or chassis restoration (non-electrical), please leave a message here. |
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2nd Apr 2020, 8:25 am | #1 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,869
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Danish Oil v Tru Oil
I was wondering if any one has used the above Oils when refurbishing their Radio Cabinets, and with what results?
I only discovered about Tru Oils after looking for information on utube. In another thread I’m restoring my BB. John |
2nd Apr 2020, 9:42 am | #2 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Portsmouth, Hampshire, UK.
Posts: 421
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
I've had very good results using Danish Oil on several of my projects. As with anything like this preparation is the key factor. I'm the first one to admit that my wood working skills are very limited. Secure any loose/lifting veneer first, a smear of PVA under it then tape or clamp down. I then strip the old varnish using very fine wire wool & either cellulose thinners or acetone (nail varnish remover) wiping down frequently with lint free cloths. If you go down this route then make sure the area you are working in is very well ventilated, the fumes are quite pungent. Others advocate the use of cabinet scrapers, the choice is entirely yours, whataever you are comfortable with. Once the cabinet if free of old varnish then I usually leave it a few days to thoroughly dry out of any residue of solvents. With Danish Oil you have plenty of time to go over any areas again as it takes between two to five days to dry off, this is dependent on ambient temperature, again make sure the area is well ventilated. Danish Oil can be obtained in a variety of shades so, again, the choice is up to you. In the first picture you can see on the right hand side is the old finish & the second shows the finished cabinet. Hope this helps.
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2nd Apr 2020, 10:08 am | #3 |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Norwich, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 2,543
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
I've been using Danish oil on radios for twenty years and have always been pleased with the results. Although it's not liked by some, because it's not an original finish, I prefer to use it because of it's ease of use and it's reliable results.
Here's the restoration story of my black box finished with Danish oil https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=85562 Regards David
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2nd Apr 2020, 12:26 pm | #4 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,869
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
Wow David what a wonderful job you did on the cabinet I’m very impressed.
How did the paint stripper work for you, I found it a right messy job and I’ve only done the top of the lid? You also seem to have a decent gloss how did you achieve that? I only asked about Tru Oil because it seems to give a harder finish and more gloss, according to what I could see on utube. John |
2nd Apr 2020, 12:29 pm | #5 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,869
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
I should have said thank you also to Beardyman for your reply I have noted your comments and I’m impressed with the finish on your Radio Cabinet.
John |
2nd Apr 2020, 1:06 pm | #6 |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 2,583
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
In reality Danish, Teak, Boiled Linseed and Tru oils are all linseed oils with small quantities of added drying agents, varnishes and sometimes dyes. Tung oil is very similar except that it's based on oil extracted from the nuts of the Tung tree. Exact formulations vary between manufacturers and brands. In practice there's little to choose between them in my experience other than the higher prices charged by the big brand names.
The beautiful results achieved by Beardyman and David may not be applicable to John's project unless he decides to strip the whole cabinet as I mentioned in his other thread. Alan |
2nd Apr 2020, 1:47 pm | #7 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 22,801
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
One warning if you're new to using these oils:
Linseed oil based stuff, if left soaked into a rag or even kitchen roll paper has a habit of spontaneous combustion. Don't leave rags etc used for it lying around in the house, it could start a fire. THere are some funny reactions which can go on in all sorts of things. I found a cardboard box in the attic which had an area charred and blackened as if it has been on fire in just the area that a stainless steel sample square (A teapot 'blank', honest!) had been resting against it. Scary! David
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2nd Apr 2020, 1:53 pm | #8 |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Bognor Regis, West Sussex, UK.
Posts: 2,288
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
I'm sure its been said before but don't forget that rags / cloths / wipes that have been used to apply linseed and Danish oil can spontaneously ignite in air.
There are videos on Youtube showing this. Cloths used to apply these oils should be put into water when finished. Peter Edit, crossed with Radiowrangler - great minds etc................... |
2nd Apr 2020, 3:25 pm | #9 | |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Norwich, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 2,543
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
Quote:
It was done in the good old days when you could get paint stripper that worked! It is very important to remove all the old finish and dust, if you sand, before applying Danish Oil. I always apply three coats of Danish oil leaving a day between coats. The old rags are laid flat outside until they are dry before binning them. I always use a Tung oil based Danish oil, which seems to be common but I have heard that sometimes Danish oil can be based on other things? Regards David
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2nd Apr 2020, 3:35 pm | #10 |
Octode
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ely, Cambridgeshire, UK.
Posts: 1,967
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
I use kitchen roll to apply the oil and a rubber glove when finished I keep the paper in a ball in my hand and remove the glove over the top of it stretch it and knot it leaving the cloth/paper inside sealed and the air excluded
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2nd Apr 2020, 3:46 pm | #11 |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 2,583
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
I wouldn't underestimate linseed oil's combustion potential when drying although it hasn't happened to me in many years of using it. However, I never seem to have an endless supply of clean rags and in view of the number of coats needed to get a good finish that supply can soon disappear. My solution is to use an old saucepan with a lid where the rag is stored until the next coat is applied. Any metal container with a lid should suffice. Sheets of kitchen roll are another alternative but they need to be disposed of safely. Just chucking them in an outside bin could have unpleasant consequences. Whatever method is used cutting off the supply of oxygen is the key.
Alan |
2nd Apr 2020, 3:54 pm | #12 | |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 2,583
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
Quote:
Alan |
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2nd Apr 2020, 6:25 pm | #13 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,869
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
Thanks for information, had H&S stopped getting paint stripper that’s works?
That may be the reason I had so much difficulty removing the lacquer from the lid! John |
2nd Apr 2020, 8:21 pm | #14 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Heckmondwike, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 9,637
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
It's been fairly well covered here. The general consensus is that your health is more important than your sanity!
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3rd Apr 2020, 8:34 am | #15 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,869
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
Thank you Bill, I took look at some other posts on the subject and yes it’s looks like only the ‘weaker” solution is available to the public, thank you all for your replies.
John |
3rd Apr 2020, 9:34 am | #16 |
Pentode
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, UK.
Posts: 225
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
You might find that the oil / cleaning causes the grain to rise, so remember to lightly sand on earlier coats, then as the coats build up you can rub with fine steel wool. After the last coat for a gloss, buff / polish with wax. In my experience, tung oil gives better gloss, whereas the danish oils I've used tend to a more satin finish.
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3rd Apr 2020, 11:23 am | #17 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fakenham, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 4,246
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
TruOil looks interesting to me on the basis of a couple of YouTube videos. I've steered clear of Danish Oil because, while it can certainly bring out the beauty of the grain, I don't think I've yet seen a cabinet treated with it that didn't have a just-been-done look which would make it stand out a mile in a row of well-preserved sets in their original finish. It's up to the individual restorer what his or her goal is for the finished item, and mine was always a cabinet looking as though it had led as gentle as possible a life since leaving the factory. French polish seemed the easiest way of approaching that result although it wasn't widely employed in the industry of the '30s-'50s.
Paul |
3rd Apr 2020, 12:30 pm | #18 | |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 2,583
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Re: Danish Oil v Tru Oil
Quote:
Personally I prefer oils which have a lower varnish content as the level of gloss can be controlled, to a point anyway, by adjusting the number of coats applied. They also seem to cure more quickly so that repeated applications can be undertaken more rapidly. Alan Last edited by ajgriff; 3rd Apr 2020 at 12:54 pm. |
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