Fenman 2

[phil3153]

Hi folks i am a complete novice but i find valve radios fascinating ,recently acquired a Fenman2 it works as good as the day it was made, no , hum, all wave bands perfect ,and shed loads of undistorted volume even the two dial lamps work.
I looks to me that everything under the chassis is original ,it is however infested with Hunts caps and a few waxes .
I intend to use it fairly regular for a couple of hours day or so .Is there anything that i should replace as a matter of course (that cap) springs to mind is there any thing else i should do or just leave well alone.

Am i correct that C79 is that cap in the service data sheet ? if not can someone tell which one it is . Thanks for any replies Phil.

[Darren-UK]

Hi Phil,

For a complete novice you seem to know what you're talking about.

I'm a little suspicious of the radio working fine albeit original and complete with waxies etc. Are you certain it hasn't been restored with the original caps restuffed? If the non-waxies are Mouldseals they'll likely be original though; they're not exactly restuffable!

What's the wiring like? any crumbling insulation? Is there any suspect blobs of waxy goo beneath the mains transformer?

Regarding C79, would this be the Trader reference?

There'll probably be a cap across the mains, if so replace it with a Class X2.

[Radio_Dave]

Hi Phil,

Everybody has different opinions about changing capacitors, but I use my Fenman II's lots and I want reliable, trouble free service from them. For this reason, my preference is to change all of them (waxies and Hunts) including the electrolytics.

Here's a very important tip; Never get any moisture on the back of the dial (Don't even 'huff' on it) or the white lettering will curl and fall off!

David

[Patrick Dixon]

Here's another tip; be really, really careful when removing the knobs. Even so, you might find they break because the plastic has gone brittle under the metal spring clip.

[Nickthedentist]

Nice radios!

As a start, I would change both audio output valve grid coupling caps. Unlike most sets, this uses a "push-pull" output involving 2 valves, so there are two caps to worry about.

As Dave says, the other Hunts caps are suspect too, but as leaving them in-situ is unlikely to cause any damage and as it's working so well, you'll probably be OK leaving them at present.

Nick.

[Patrick Dixon]

You should change both C79 & C40 (Pye data) / C77 & C78 (Trader data), but like David I'd change them all.

There's no cap across the mains.

[phil3153]

Wow---- guys many thanks for your replies ,yes Pye data sheet is what i have ,the only thing that looks to have been replaced is the mains lead witch is two core and earth to the chassis .

[telstar]

Hi Phil. A good tip is to apply some grease to the control shafts and the knobs to make it easy to remove or replace the knobs. The springs on these knobs do get tight with old age, and the plastic that the knobs are made from can suffer damage.
I have a Fenman II radio that I am working on, the cord drive requires replacement (I have not got around to it yet, as I have had other jobs to do). Somehow I think that the direction of the cord around the spindle (as per the trader and the Pye service sheet) seems to have been drawn the wrong way around. Anyone else had this problem ?
Yes, I agree with you Phil, it is a great looking and sounding radio. I would change the Hunts Mouldseal caps. Those 350v polyester caps from Maplin would probably be a good replacement, as they are also of a small size.
Good luck with the radio
Mike

[phil3153]

Its in pieces on the bench now ,the knobs all came off nicely .will change the hunts and electrolytics later as advised ,but will be stripping and re varnishing the badly scratched case first .I have a liking for the big sounding big 50s woodys i also have a Pye pe80 and a Philips 643a, along with the Fenman 2 i will have to build an extension Phil.

[Brian R Pateman]

Lovely set the Fenman II, as regulars here will know I have a liking for all the big Pyes.

The great advantage is that it doesn't have "piano key" wavechange selection like the later VHF 2D. It is also free from the printed circuit audio stage which can lead to problems if there is tracking on burned areas of the boards.

Make sure that the rectifier and output valve holders are in good condition. I have had problems with these on a couple of sets recently. Bear in mind that they are over 50 years old now and well beyond their design life.

Good luck with it. I'm sure you will enjoy listening to such a useable classic.

[Radio_Dave]

Originally Posted by phil3153

will change the hunts and electrolytics later as advised

As you've mentioned that there's no hum then your probably OK to leave the reservoir and smoothing electrolytic caps. Just change the Hunts, Waxies and axial lead electrolytics, like the ones in the attached photo

Originally Posted by phil3153

will be stripping and re varnishing the badly scratched case first

The speakers' baffle board is fixed to the cabinet with 9 wood screws, but 2 are hidden under the brown felt, under the speakers, in the centre outsides of the baffle board (they catch me out everytime!)

Originally Posted by telstar

I have a Fenman II radio that I am working on, the cord drive requires replacement (I have not got around to it yet, as I have had other jobs to do). Somehow I think that the direction of the cord around the spindle (as per the trader and the Pye service sheet) seems to have been drawn the wrong way around. Anyone else had this problem ?

Hi Mike, I've just checked the Trader sheet against a chassis and dial cord drawing is correct

David

[phil3153]

Hi David yes i think it was one of your threads that i read about the hidden screws behind the felt they weren't going to catch me out .I have read just about everything regarding the fenman11 you folks have posted in the past , and its invaluable to newbies like me ,this is a great forum Phil.