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Old 20th Jul 2021, 3:17 pm   #1
pentoad
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Default Repairing Bush DAC90 capacitor question.

Is there any reason not to use cheaper 630v polyester film capacitors (the dipped type, usually orange/red or green) . I have noticed that people seem to use the small yellow polypropylene type - I use those in audio or guitar amplifiers, but valve radios are lofi high distortion things.
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Old 20th Jul 2021, 4:17 pm   #2
Graham G3ZVT
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Default Re: Repairing dac90 capacitor question

No problem with using them at all.

I suppose most modern components have radial leads and some of us might feel they look out of place in vintage equipment.
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Old 20th Jul 2021, 4:47 pm   #3
pentoad
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Thumbs up Re: Repairing dac90 capacitor question

Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo1152 View Post
No problem with using them at all.

I suppose most modern components have radial leads and some of us might feel they look out of place in vintage equipment.
Thanks
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Old 20th Jul 2021, 10:44 pm   #4
Techman
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Default Re: Repairing dac90 capacitor question

Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo1152 View Post
some of us might feel they look out of place in vintage equipment.
Exactly!

There's nothing worse than turning over a chassis to find that someone's done a bodge job with modern style radial capacitors. They'll work just as well as the axial type, but often the leads aren't long enough and need extending or stretching and pulling across other components. It's just nasty and unprofessional if you're a genuine vintage repairer or restorer and it's not as if the correct type are expensive. Someone who ends up with the set in the future will probably have to snip them all out and do the job all over again!
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Old 21st Jul 2021, 9:16 am   #5
Leon Crampin
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Default Re: Repairing Bush DAC90 capacitor question.

The resin dipped radial capacitors are cheap and reliable, but I agree that they look out of place on most wired chassis. I would certinly not fit them undisguised to a pre-war receiver.

A good compromise where waxed cardboard tube capacitors are fitted, is to warm and pull out the contents of the old capacitor, just leaving an empty tube. In many cases where the value rquired is <100nF, a radial lead device can be inserted in the tube, extending the leads if neceesary with the joint inside. This gives a cheap and reliable fix without compromising appearance. I generally do not encapsulate the assembly - there's no point. If the tube is in danger of moving axially, an internal blob of adhesive will suffice.

New axial lead devices are now expensive relative to radial types and still don't look good on old sets.

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