1930 Servant Bell Box Relocation

[pmmunro]

Originally Posted by Roger Ramjet

Another option for extending the wires would be to use a similar size pvc wire to the existing ones & join them using an automobile crimp connector (the yellow ones would be right size). The joints should be staggered so you do not end up with a large clump that would be difficult to conceal.

Yellow Crimp connectors are for conductors between 4 and 6mm squared. See e.g. Cembre's range, https://www.cembre.co.uk/assets/PL-M...1-gb.pdfSurely you mean red ).25 to 1.5 mm sq. or even green 0.2 to 0.5mm sq. although the smallest size is not nearly so readily available and the colour varies between manufacturers.

Another option would be to use a technique which would have been used when this equipment was new; soldered twisted joints, with heatshrink tubing as a concession to modernity which is superior to insulating tape.

PMM

[Brigham]

Soldered twisted joints wrapped with Blackley tape would be my preferred method.

[Nickthedentist]

Or these Wago connectors, for a minimal-skill, maximum-reliability solution:

https://media.screwfix.com/is/image/...odImageMedium$

or

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Images/..._3/WA2411A.JPG

[Roger Ramjet]

Originally Posted by pmmunro

Yellow Crimp connectors are for conductors between 4 and 6mm squared. See e.g. Cembre's range, https://www.cembre.co.uk/assets/PL-M...1-gb.pdfSurely you mean red ).25 to 1.5 mm sq. or even green 0.2 to 0.5mm sq. although the smallest size is not nearly so readily available and the colour varies between manufacturers.

Another option would be to use a technique which would have been used when this equipment was new; soldered twisted joints, with heatshrink tubing as a concession to modernity which is superior to insulating tape.

PMM

Yes agreed the red ones would be the right size. My apologies, its been a long long time since I used these. Solder & heatshrink is best option although a bit more of a faff than an in - line pre insulated crimp. Rog

[Uncle Bulgaria]

Originally Posted by rambo1152

My paternal grandparents had three bells on springs in the kitchen in their Victorian flat in Edinburgh, operated through wires pulleys and cranks. Only the street door bell worked, one of six large brass pulls which seemed to be quite common on Edinburgh tenements when I was a kid.

There was a Bakelite handle in the lounge, you could hear the broken wire rubbing against the laths inside the wall, I can't remember what the third bell was for

I had dinner a couple of weeks ago on Bernard Terrace in Edinburgh, where the street doorbells were working, with the front tenement door opened by the handles on the stairwell. The residents' names were also properly painted in cartouches on the stones next to the bell pulls. Unfortunately, one flat had a ghastly white plastic electric bell stuck onto the escutcheon of the original bell pull, but otherwise it was original, low-tech and working without any electricity. Marvellous!

[Herald1360]

Originally Posted by Roger Ramjet

Yes agreed the red ones would be the right size. My apologies, its been a long long time since I used these. Solder & heatshrink is best option although a bit more of a faff than an in - line pre insulated crimp. Rog

You can get inline heatshrink and solder cable joiners. Slip one over the wire then make a clean inline twisted joint, position the solder ring in the butt connector over the twisted and wave heat gun or fag lighter. There's even hot melt glue in the mix so the joint is waterproof too!

[Graham G3ZVT]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bulgaria

I had dinner a couple of weeks ago on Bernard Terrace in Edinburgh, where the street doorbells were working, with the front tenement door opened by the handles on the stairwell. The residents' names were also properly painted in cartouches on the stones next to the bell pulls. Unfortunately, one flat had a ghastly white plastic electric bell stuck onto the escutcheon of the original bell pull, but otherwise it was original, low-tech and working without any electricity. Marvellous!

I just remembered something else, the key to open the street door from the outside looked like something from a Victorian gaol, but you didn't turn it, you rocked it as a lever, to lift the latch. In fact, anything that could be poked into the keyhole would open the door even a child's finger, I can attest.

[BakerLady]

Hello Graham, I don’t suppose you would consider taking on a paid restoration job of a Victorian servant call box? We have moved into an 1888 house with a working model - but have had to move it due to a kitchen re-design. Our electrician has seen it operate and removed it himself but is advising a restoration clean and repair where needed before he re-sites it. Thank you, Lisa

[Station X]

Sorry BakerLady, but I cannot undertake this work as I have too many other commitments.

The electrical side of these units is extremely simple and anyone with basic electrical knowledge should be able to fix any problems.

Try posting your request in the Repair and Restoration Services Wanted section of the forums. I recommend including pictures so that any prospective repairers can see what work is involved.

I also recommend not sending this item through the post as, without careful packing, the irreplaceable glass is likely to get smashed.