Dansette Major Restore

[Amxen50]

Hi all. This is my very first post. After getting to the grand old age of 50 this year I wanted to recollect all my old vinyl records, but I also wanted an old record player to play them on. So I wanted a little project to restore as i have my own little workshop. So I have just purchased a Dansette major from eBay. That's step 1. step 2 is getting the electronics to work. That's where the forum comes in i hope.

I think it has 2 problems, the first and very obvious problem is the sound. when turning the player on at first there is no sound but then after about 30 seconds it starts to buzz/hum. This becomes very loud, the buzz volume does not change when you alter the volume knob, it just stays very loud. There is not sound coming from the stylus when you touch it.

The second problem seems to be the deck seems to be turning slowly. I cant tell for sure as i have no records to try, but it does seem to be turning A lot slower than I remember they turned.

Once these are sorted i will move on to the rest of the restoration. I hope someone can shed some light on to these problems for me.

I will try and add some photos

Thanks for any help Mick

[paulsherwin]

The buzz/hum is probably caused by knackered smoothing capacitors (the two in the big aluminium can).

The record deck will need a stripdown and relube.

It appears to have the original cartridge fitted. This will be mono and will damage stereo records if you try to play them. It may also be dead and need replacement anyway, but we can look at that after you've fixed the hum.

Can you let us know your level of expertise, so that we can give advice appropriately?

[Edward Huggins]

That hum is highly likely to be the smoothing capacitor - your 4th photo. This can be relaced using seperate components as there are 3 caps in this can. You can't get an original now. If you can use a multimeter this will help to check voltages. You will not be able to fully test the cartridge until this is fixed. As to the slow turntable turning this is probably due to a lack of use and there is much on in the Stickys above on lubing these decks - yours is a BSR UA8. Be aware that if your original BSR TC8H crystal cartridge has failed, you cannot readily replace these unless you import them for about £55 (Mono only) or use a more modern ceramic cartridge - but which will give you a lower volume output. Let us know how you get on.

['LIVEWIRE?']

If the turntable is running slower than normal, likely causes include slipping idler wheel (aka Jockey Pulley, and hardened grease, particularly if controls are stiff to operate (Don't force the controls-apart from other problems the control knos on the record deck are liable to break) The 'sticky' thread at the head of this section gives advice on servicing autochangers. As to the electronic problem, one possible cause of the loud hum is possibly a faulty reservoir/smoothing capacitor( The Electrolytic condensor in picture 3) There is also a component above the valve in picture 2, with a shrunken blue sleeve marked 400v, which might need replacing. No sound when stroking the stylus suggests that the cartridge has failed-very likely if it is the original TC8 type. More modern replacement cartridges, e.g. the BSR SC11 or 12 series are still available, but one is likely to cost around £40.00. Service data for the Major is available as a download from the link 'up top' for £1.99 (edit-crossed with Paul Sherwin's post)

[Amxen50]

I have no electronic experience but I'm a gas boiler breakdown engineer working for Vaillant boiler manufacturer. I have a full workshop, Lathes Milling machine CNC machines saws grinders. I know my way around a multimeter. I was unaware the cartridge would damage stereo records.

[Amxen50]

All very useful thanks. The speed controls had jammed that was the first thing I looked at. I managed to get them moving freely by cleaning and removing the old grease, then re-greased them. They now move freely. I'm guessing I need to completely remove the deck from the "loom" if you can call it that, then do a proper job on the deck.

[paulsherwin]

Originally Posted by Amxen50

I have no electronic experience but I'm a gas boiler breakdown engineer working for Vaillant boiler manufacturer. I have a full workshop, Lathes Milling machine CNC machines saws grinders. I know my way around a multimeter. I was unaware the cartridge would damage stereo records.

That's a good skill base for a beginner. The electronics in these things are quite simple so you should pick things up easily enough. The first thing to do is examine the amplifier closely and work out what all the components are. It would also be a good idea to do some basic study on how a simple valve amplifier works.

This Wikipedia article is as good a place to start as any: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentode

For an even gentler introduction, try here: http://www.vintage-radio.com/repair-...lves-work.html

[Amxen50]

Can you purchase these rubber mounts

[ben]

For slow running, check the rubber grommets holding the motor in place. These fail and the motor drops down causing slow speed. Replace grommets if perished so the motor pulley will line up with the rubber idler wheel. Note as said above, the deck will need a proper strip down/clean and relubrication to work reliably!

[Amxen50]

Will the Rock-Ola Rubber Turntable Motor Grommet work as the ones on this have completely perished. Or is there a better solution

[Edward Huggins]

I normally use grommets of similar diameter (Maplins) stacked to give the correct height. Note the 4 steps in the motor pulley (for the 4 speeds) and how the idler (black rubber) wheel aligns with them.

[Amxen50]

My guess is the three caps I need to replace will be marked up on the side of the one that's installed?

[Amxen50]

Originally Posted by 'LIVEWIRE?'

There is also a component above the valve in picture 2, with a shrunken blue sleeve marked 400v, which might need replacing.

The component with the 400V on it would be what? So I can look it up.

Thanks, Mick.

[Station X]

Originally Posted by Amxen50

My guess is the three caps I need to replace will be marked up on the side of the one that's installed?

Indeed they are. I can see it in your first picture.

[AC/HL]

Originally Posted by Amxen50

The component with the 400V on it would be what? So I can look it up.

It'll be a capacitor. More specifically one constructed with paper dialectric (insulation in simple terms). It will be electrically leaky and should be replaced.

[tracypaper]

The thing with the 400v on it is a capacitor and probably 0.05 uf and needs replacing (replace with 0.047 if it is 0.05) as it is cracked and has lumps missing from it as can be seen in picture 4.
Gaz.

[PJL]

On mine, the electrolytic capacitor can had 3 tags soldered to the board and the circuit used the can to link tracks so when you remove the capacitor make sure you wire up any broken connections.

[Amxen50]

Thanks all this is a great help. as for the caps I'm finding it hard to find 32uf 32uf 250v .. The question is would 32uf 32uf 500v work as I can find them?

[frankmcvey]

I'm finding it hard to find 32uf 32uf 250v .. The question is would 32uf 32uf 500v work as I can find them?

Yes. The voltage figure on the capacitors is their rating, so caps that are rated for 500V will be quite happy working at a mere 250V. However, it's not a good idea to do it in reverse - don't try to stuff 500V down a 250V-rated capacitor!

The only snag you might encounter is that the higher the voltage rating, generally speaking, the larger the physical size of the capacitor, so check that the darn things will fit the space available. (It isn't usually a problem to relocate them, using longer wires if needed)

Cheers,

Frank

[Clydeuk]

The capacitor can I can see in the picture contains 3 capacitors. 32uF and 16uF 250v and a 25uF 25v. You'll need to replace all of these. I'm not sure you will get a suitable can and may have to resort to individual capacitors instead.