Workshop Lighting. - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

govjohn · 12th Feb 2017, 10:31 pm

Hi, I'm not sure where to post this query so if it needs moving, mods please do so. As a result of moving house I am at present setting up a new work shop and a problem has arisen regarding the lighting. In my previous W Shop the general lighting consisted of 2 X 5ft and 1X4ft florescent tubes above the bench with an illuminated magnifying glass for close up work. It seems now that florescent tubes are 'old hat' and Led strip lights are the way to go. Has any one had experience of these in particular about interference levels? I appreciate that old style florescent tubes were hardly silent in this regard, but how do the LED types compare particularly with regard to colour rendering. If any one has any insights to offer on this subject I would like to hear from them.
Regards, John.

Refugee · 12th Feb 2017, 11:15 pm

I have done some tests on a 10.5W 600mm strip available from Aldi from time to time. I get the impression that an almost identical unit is sometimes also sold at Lidl

I tested it with various AM radios with good results.
The electronics are mounted in an aluminum extrusion so they are well screened and it was difficult to get any hash on the radio even with the lamp laying along the length of the internal aerial.
The camera takes both extremes on light rendering with and without a flash and in real life it is an average of what is seen on the screen.

Lloyd 1985 · 13th Feb 2017, 12:49 am

I still think that LED's have a long way to go to beat good old fluorescent tubes, I have both in my workshop. Having just built my new workshop I have fitted the 2 old 5ft fluorescents from my old workshop, they are still on their first tubes that I bought with them in December 2004! I'd like to see one of these new LED's last that long... Also in the interests of saving energy I have 2 4ft fluorescents that run off 24V from solar panels. And the LED's are over the bench in 4W MR16 form, in a 4 way fitting that has also been converted to run from 24V. I have also started using some of the new LED 'filament' bulbs, they have very good light output, and being like a normal light bulb they throw the light out all round, rather than straight down.

As for colour temperature, I prefer the warm white type, I have tried the cool white type and just don't get on with them, too much blue to the light, and my eyes don't seem to work so well with them.

As for noise, the 4 LED MR16 types in the bench lighting are awful! They can blot out radio no problem, notice I'm not specifying any particular waveband, because it blots out them all! I even get patterning on my 405 line TV's when they are on, and they are getting their signals down a screened cable! Yet another manufacturer's MR16 type LED's in the same fitting produce very little to no noise. It seems to be just luck of the draw with these things, but then my experience has only been with the cheap Chinese types that can be had for a few quid. It's possible that more expensive types, such as Philips branded ones might be much better.

Regards,
Lloyd.

The Philpott · 13th Feb 2017, 8:58 am

Personally i would stick with old battens and supplement them with LED if need be; but in my opinion the newish warm white LED's are much preferable to the previous generation of Daz white ones!

Wendymott · 13th Feb 2017, 1:06 pm

I recently replaced both my 6ft Flu tube fittings with LED Panels 1200 X 300... They are 6500 colour.... i.e daylight....Come on straight away, excellent light, and as far as I can see no interference. The only drawback is suspending them from the ceiling . I put two cross battens and then attached a long batten 2 x 2 down the length, over shooting the ends of the light to screw into the ceiling battens. I started with one.... and immediately ordered a second when I found how good it was. I bought on ebay for £33 inc delivery

bluepilot · 14th Feb 2017, 1:01 pm

I haven't used any LED strip lights but most of the light bulbs in the house are LEDs. I find the colours to be very variable. Everyone's idea of warm white seems to be different. I have some bulbs which are just a nice warmed-up white whereas others are bright yellow. All of them claim to be warm white. If possible check them out first to make sure the colour is acceptable.

The Philpott · 16th Feb 2017, 12:22 am

Agree. All of my GLS ones that claim to be 2700k are a little yellow-rich. The ideal may be 1 cool white LED for every 5 warm white, within the luminaire or lamp. Sooner or later someone will start making something like this, but there will be cost implications due to increased manufacture time--slightly more labour. I might get onto big clive and see if he can experiment with this idea.

sparkylad · 16th Feb 2017, 6:43 am

Try and stay away from led that is in the frorm of a concentrated unit ie a strip or spot as these can create shadow which would not be a of much use when bench working on items,the led panels are quite good as the pass the led light through an opal panel which diffuses the light and softens any shadow,i personally find the daylight 65k versions are quite a blue horrible light that strains my eyes as there isnt nearly enough light off then for my eyes and brain to be tricked into thinking its daylight.

The Philpott · 16th Feb 2017, 6:36 pm

I have toyed with Sylvania daylight simulation T8 tubes with fair results, they claim to have a 98% CRI and emit 'A tiny amount of UV'. You don't get quite as many lumens per watt, hence they tend to be rated as B rather than A efficiency. When i bought them they were 3 times the price of what you might call ordinary tubes, something to do with progressive layers of phosphors that have to be applied during manufacture.

Hard to say whether i recommend them or not, as everyone has a different requirement in their minds for lighting. I thought they were OK. They flickered whilst warming from a cold start, but i get this with all T8's anyway. T12's are much better in this respect.

FrankB · 19th Feb 2017, 9:53 am

I was in a computer shop where they had replaced all the flourescent tubes with the LED replacements. They produced more light, and were way cheaper to operate, even if the initial cost was quite a bit more. I will be installing them in my new shop area when it's finished. I did ask if they had any problems with RFI, and they replied "No".

The new switch mode P.S. in the so called "energy effiicent" lights they sell here in the States generate so much RFI, that in the TV shop I worked in for 20+ yrs, they totally killed channels 2-6, SW, AM, and FM. We made the contractor come back and replace the old ballasts and old style tubes.

BTW- I forgot to add, the LED types come in different color temperatures also.

12th Feb 2017, 10:31 pm	#1
govjohn Pentode Join Date: May 2011 Location: Cardigan, Ceredigion, UK. Posts: 100	Workshop Lighting. Hi, I'm not sure where to post this query so if it needs moving, mods please do so. As a result of moving house I am at present setting up a new work shop and a problem has arisen regarding the lighting. In my previous W Shop the general lighting consisted of 2 X 5ft and 1X4ft florescent tubes above the bench with an illuminated magnifying glass for close up work. It seems now that florescent tubes are 'old hat' and Led strip lights are the way to go. Has any one had experience of these in particular about interference levels? I appreciate that old style florescent tubes were hardly silent in this regard, but how do the LED types compare particularly with regard to colour rendering. If any one has any insights to offer on this subject I would like to hear from them. Regards, John. Last edited by govjohn; 12th Feb 2017 at 10:33 pm. Reason: Puntuation ditto

12th Feb 2017, 11:15 pm	#2
Refugee Dekatron Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire, UK. Posts: 5,554	Re: Workshop Lighting. I have done some tests on a 10.5W 600mm strip available from Aldi from time to time. I get the impression that an almost identical unit is sometimes also sold at Lidl I tested it with various AM radios with good results. The electronics are mounted in an aluminum extrusion so they are well screened and it was difficult to get any hash on the radio even with the lamp laying along the length of the internal aerial. The camera takes both extremes on light rendering with and without a flash and in real life it is an average of what is seen on the screen. Attached Thumbnails

13th Feb 2017, 12:49 am	#3
Lloyd 1985 Nonode Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Coningsby, Lincolnshire, UK. Posts: 2,820	Re: Workshop Lighting. I still think that LED's have a long way to go to beat good old fluorescent tubes, I have both in my workshop. Having just built my new workshop I have fitted the 2 old 5ft fluorescents from my old workshop, they are still on their first tubes that I bought with them in December 2004! I'd like to see one of these new LED's last that long... Also in the interests of saving energy I have 2 4ft fluorescents that run off 24V from solar panels. And the LED's are over the bench in 4W MR16 form, in a 4 way fitting that has also been converted to run from 24V. I have also started using some of the new LED 'filament' bulbs, they have very good light output, and being like a normal light bulb they throw the light out all round, rather than straight down. As for colour temperature, I prefer the warm white type, I have tried the cool white type and just don't get on with them, too much blue to the light, and my eyes don't seem to work so well with them. As for noise, the 4 LED MR16 types in the bench lighting are awful! They can blot out radio no problem, notice I'm not specifying any particular waveband, because it blots out them all! I even get patterning on my 405 line TV's when they are on, and they are getting their signals down a screened cable! Yet another manufacturer's MR16 type LED's in the same fitting produce very little to no noise. It seems to be just luck of the draw with these things, but then my experience has only been with the cheap Chinese types that can be had for a few quid. It's possible that more expensive types, such as Philips branded ones might be much better. Regards, Lloyd.

13th Feb 2017, 8:58 am	#4
The Philpott Dekatron Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Colchester, Essex, UK. Posts: 4,108	Re: Workshop Lighting. Personally i would stick with old battens and supplement them with LED if need be; but in my opinion the newish warm white LED's are much preferable to the previous generation of Daz white ones!

13th Feb 2017, 1:06 pm	#5
Wendymott Octode Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK. Posts: 1,795	Re: Workshop Lighting. I recently replaced both my 6ft Flu tube fittings with LED Panels 1200 X 300... They are 6500 colour.... i.e daylight....Come on straight away, excellent light, and as far as I can see no interference. The only drawback is suspending them from the ceiling . I put two cross battens and then attached a long batten 2 x 2 down the length, over shooting the ends of the light to screw into the ceiling battens. I started with one.... and immediately ordered a second when I found how good it was. I bought on ebay for £33 inc delivery __________________ Should get out more. Regards Wendy G8BZY

14th Feb 2017, 1:01 pm	#6
bluepilot Heptode Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Duffort, Gers, France Posts: 714	Re: Workshop Lighting. I haven't used any LED strip lights but most of the light bulbs in the house are LEDs. I find the colours to be very variable. Everyone's idea of warm white seems to be different. I have some bulbs which are just a nice warmed-up white whereas others are bright yellow. All of them claim to be warm white. If possible check them out first to make sure the colour is acceptable. __________________ Stuart The golden age is always yesterday - Asa Briggs

16th Feb 2017, 12:22 am	#7
The Philpott Dekatron Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Colchester, Essex, UK. Posts: 4,108	Re: Workshop Lighting. Agree. All of my GLS ones that claim to be 2700k are a little yellow-rich. The ideal may be 1 cool white LED for every 5 warm white, within the luminaire or lamp. Sooner or later someone will start making something like this, but there will be cost implications due to increased manufacture time--slightly more labour. I might get onto big clive and see if he can experiment with this idea.

16th Feb 2017, 6:43 am	#8
sparkylad Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne, Tyne and Wear, UK. Posts: 3	Re: Workshop Lighting. Try and stay away from led that is in the frorm of a concentrated unit ie a strip or spot as these can create shadow which would not be a of much use when bench working on items,the led panels are quite good as the pass the led light through an opal panel which diffuses the light and softens any shadow,i personally find the daylight 65k versions are quite a blue horrible light that strains my eyes as there isnt nearly enough light off then for my eyes and brain to be tricked into thinking its daylight.

16th Feb 2017, 6:36 pm	#9
The Philpott Dekatron Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Colchester, Essex, UK. Posts: 4,108	Re: Workshop Lighting. I have toyed with Sylvania daylight simulation T8 tubes with fair results, they claim to have a 98% CRI and emit 'A tiny amount of UV'. You don't get quite as many lumens per watt, hence they tend to be rated as B rather than A efficiency. When i bought them they were 3 times the price of what you might call ordinary tubes, something to do with progressive layers of phosphors that have to be applied during manufacture. Hard to say whether i recommend them or not, as everyone has a different requirement in their minds for lighting. I thought they were OK. They flickered whilst warming from a cold start, but i get this with all T8's anyway. T12's are much better in this respect.

19th Feb 2017, 9:53 am	#10
FrankB Heptode Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Olympia, Washington, USA. Posts: 664	Re: Workshop Lighting. I was in a computer shop where they had replaced all the flourescent tubes with the LED replacements. They produced more light, and were way cheaper to operate, even if the initial cost was quite a bit more. I will be installing them in my new shop area when it's finished. I did ask if they had any problems with RFI, and they replied "No". The new switch mode P.S. in the so called "energy effiicent" lights they sell here in the States generate so much RFI, that in the TV shop I worked in for 20+ yrs, they totally killed channels 2-6, SW, AM, and FM. We made the contractor come back and replace the old ballasts and old style tubes. BTW- I forgot to add, the LED types come in different color temperatures also.