Sony TC-366 power light on- no movement

[wilbyhilbly]

I had just finished editing a tape and switched off. Half hour later, switched on, power light was on as usual but when I switched to play, nothing. I thought it was just a drive belt gone again but both belts were ok. I then realised the main drive wheel was not spinning at all in fact nothing was moving.

So, can anyone help please, I was wondering if there is an internal fuse but if so would the power light be lit?

There was no burning smells or smoke or anything, just will not work. I have had it apart before to renew both drive belts and successfully put it back together, but I'm afraid I am no expert, but willing to have a go if I know what to look for.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is my first post so please be gentle!.

[DOFFERY]

First check the auto stop mechanism on the left hand tape guide.

Colin.

[wilbyhilbly]

I checked the auto stop and it's ok. I think that normally as soon as you switch on you can hear the big main drive wheel spinning which it isn't, also I've noticed that the sound level meters are not lit up which I think were before.

But the power light is glowing away, taunting me!.

[ben]

Without a tape threaded the fine wire stop sensor will not activate the motor. Move it back and forth a few times.

[wilbyhilbly]

I've tried moving it back and forth, no luck., but thank you Ben for your suggestion.

The motor normally starts running as soon as you switch on whether a tape is threaded or not, it's just if you miss the stop sensor when you've threaded a tape it won't engage the spool to turn it.

Is there any way I can test the power to the motor? I have a meter with a/c d/c and circuit tester on it.

[ben]

Check the obvious. If there's no life (lights in VU meters, amp etc), chekc for loose wires, then go for any internal fuses. Be sure to check if they are blackened inside; if so, you will need to clear a short. Probably a rifa cap gone somewhere!

If not, then start by measuring any switches and micro switches (Power off!!) for continuity, also do a resistance check on the transformer windings.

[wilbyhilbly]

Thanks, I'll get started and see what I can do.

When I opened the back there was something that looked like melted candle wax piled up on top of the motor. It was underneath a cylinder (see attached picture).

I found and tested the internal fuse which was OK, the power light is still lighting up, so is it something to do with the cylinder I wonder.

John

[DOFFERY]

That looks like the motor run capacitor is at fault.

Colin.

[wilbyhilbly]

As a complete novice, this may be a stupid questions, firstly, am I right in assuming that the cylinder in my picture is a capacitor, and second, if it is can anyone tell me where to buy one and what details I need to get it right.

Would the clue be on the writing on the side of it?

[ben]

Yes, that capacitor has had its day!
There seems to be various capacitors in that can. One 0.5uF (use 0.47uF) and 1.5uF (use 1uF) both rated at at least 250v. These assist correct rotation/direction of the motor, I just hope that the motor has not been damaged too.

See if you can remove the semi transparent plastic bit to get a clearer view.

[DOFFERY]

Obtain a 2mfd cap. 250 V AC , this is correct for 50 c/s On your machine the 0.5/1.5 mfd caps. are strapped . Motor IC 624 H1

If your motor leads are coloured Black , White, Orange, the coils measure aprox.

Blk / Or 430 ohms
Blk / Wh. 85 "

Or /Wh 350 "

Colin.

[wilbyhilbly]

Thank you so much for your help guys.

The motor leads are black, white and a green one, (not Orange)! hopefully they will show on the picture.

I removed the plastic top and have uploaded a couple of pictures, hope these are ok. I've also tried to show the writing on the side as I just don't understand it, hence needing to know what to ask for when I order a new one.

John

['LIVEWIRE?']

One of the capacitors in that can is (was!) 1.5uf, the other being an 0.5uf, both rated @ 250v. I can't see what the tolerances are, but, IMHO modern Capacitors having values of 1.5uf (if available) and 0.47uf, each rated at 250v or more will be suitable. As Colin (Doffrey) said is post # 11, a 2uf, 250v AC rated Capacitor will be a suitable substitute, since the two are wired in parallel (strapped together)

[wilbyhilbly]

This site is brilliant,thank you. I have found one that seems to be correct,(see picture) but it has 4 poles on it where the one in my tape has only three, would I be able to fit this one instead, if so, which three poles do I use?.

John

[DOFFERY]

John,
The two tags on one side of the dividing line are strapped, as are the other two hence only two basic tags. from your pics. Black wire to one of the two tags mentioned above, the green/white to the other tag (pair). As there was no strap on the original cap. the white wires must be strapped elsewhere. If you have a meter just check the two tags on either side of the dividing line on the new cap.to satisfy they are strapped . Trusting your motor is OK!!!!!

Colin.

[wilbyhilbly]

Colin, sorry to be a nuisance, but I am really in uncharted waters now. Just to be clear, am I right in thinking that the black wire and the green/white wires go on separate tags on the same side, and the remaining white wire goes on the other side of the dividing line.

Also, what setting do I have my meter on when checking and how do I tell they are "strapped" from the reading. I really don't want to bother you, but I just don't know what to do. Thanks.

John

[Station X]

Set your meter to the lowest ohms range. Touch the leads together so you can see how your meter displays a short circuit, probably something like 0.00R.

Touch your meter leads to the tags on one side of the line. If they're strapped you'll get a similar sort circuit reading. Repeat for the tags on the other side of the line.

If all OK connect the black wires to either tag of one side of the line. The green and white wires can be connected to either tag on the other side of the line. You can use both tags if it's easier, as they're connected together internally.

[DOFFERY]

John,
As per the excellent explanation given by Graham.

Colin.

[wilbyhilbly]

That's brilliant, thank you, but I am now wondering if I need a different capacitor because, and just to clarify the situation, the original cap has three tags and the connections are as follows, two black wires on a tag marked C, one green and one white wire on a tag marked 1.5 and a single white wire on the other tag marked 0.5.

[Station X]

In post #14 you show two capacitors. One is marked 2uF (two microfarads) and the other 4uF. So long as you use the 2uF capacitor you'll be OK.

The original capacitor had two sections of 1.5uf and 0.5uF respectively. Connected together these give 2uF, which is the value of replacement capacitor you should use. The tag marked 'C' is the common point of the two capacitors. It's obvious what the other tags are. The two white wires are in fact the connected together elsewhere in the player.