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Vintage Radio (domestic) Domestic vintage radio (wireless) receivers only. |
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#21 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Croydon, Surrey, UK.
Posts: 7,443
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It might be worth trying some of the continental forums. More likely to get spares that way.
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There are lots of brilliant keyboard players and then there is Rick Wakeman..... |
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#22 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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Thanks for that suggestion, I did ask if we had any German members on forum but so far no reply. Do you know of any such forums, many thanks.
John |
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#23 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Croydon, Surrey, UK.
Posts: 7,443
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I don't know of any in particular but you could try googling the number of the radio.
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There are lots of brilliant keyboard players and then there is Rick Wakeman..... |
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#24 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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I have tried searching but cannot find any details, schematic, that I want.
The set is now working so I’ll call a halt to my search. John |
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#25 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Düsseldorf, Germany.
Posts: 352
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Hi,
Here is a german member! ![]() I just saw your post late, I am always hanging around only in the TV forums.... Export radios are made for different locations in the world. It has no FM, because it is made for Africa or Asia. Sets made for the USA or Brasil have FM up to 108 MHz. Sets for Australia have the typically australian bands on the scale. I parted out hundreds of radios......since I was a child I loved to visit landfills and my life and horn of plenty is "Sperrmüll", stuff from curbside. ![]() ![]() Just yesterday evening I picked up a chassis from a destroyed console (KUBA-Imperial). All there incl. the speakers for one side (tube Stereo). Now I started to organize my parts, which is difficult because of the time I need to do it. I have a big library of schematics, but not for that export radio. This stuff was not given to german repairman. You have to find this stuff in the country of destination. I am doing so with schematics from export TV sets. And yes, I have many antennas (rods), but where? ![]() If I have an overview, I like to sell all the scales, knobs push buttons, backs, I don`t need for my own collection. Happy weekend, German Dalek ![]()
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#26 | |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Düsseldorf, Germany.
Posts: 352
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They made TVs in the early 60s with motorized tuners and remote controls (super-sonic). Only SABA and Philips made in that time (mid to end 50s) motorized radios! Regards, German Dalek ![]() P.S. I may can help with a picture, how to connect an antenna rod with the stand.
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And now something completly different: MARC BOLAN, he was/is the real king of Pop Music! |
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#27 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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Hello and thanks for your interesting information.
Regarding the schematic diagram unfortunately I cannot find one, but it’s no problem now as the set is working. On utube I saw a video which looked like one of the Nordmende sets and the ferrite rod aerial rotated, I thought it was motorised as I could not see any string or pulleys. Regards John |
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#28 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire, UK.
Posts: 3,655
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Hi John can you tell us how you got it working ,did you fit a ferrite rod aerial . Mick.
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#29 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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Hi Mick
Yes no problem. I removed the chassis and gave it a thorough clean. After familiarising myself with the layout ( I have been unable to obtain schematic), and carrying out some cold meter tests and visually checking for any obvious problems, I decided to switch on. I immediately noticed signs of life and after testing voltages etc found the AF and IF stages to be ok I noticed that someone had messed around with the front end and removed the ferrite rod aerial, in its place the had put a small length of wire, see picture. they had not soldered correctly, this was corrected. The next fault was dirty switch contacts, after cleaning with switch cleaner the set started to pick up stations, however the wavechange switches are very erratic and presents a problem, how to cure them completely, I’ve cleaned them twice and operated them many times ! I think that’s all so far. Just remembered I have not fitted ferrite rod, it works surprisingly well without one! John |
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#30 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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I have just found a tin of Servisol 10, which I will now try, I used an old tin of Maplins before.
John |
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#31 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Düsseldorf, Germany.
Posts: 352
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Hi!
That is good news. I should be able to help you with a similiar schematic. The "only" difference are the number of wavebands. ![]() The power supply and the sound stage with all the sound buttons will be the same. Your set has a "Fidelio" size. ![]() https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/nordme...lio_57_3d.html https://www.radiomuseum-bocket.de/wi..._Fidelio_58_3D If you don´t have to rebuild the push-button assy because of missing parts, a Fidelio schematic might help, even without these strange AM-bands! Regards, German Dalek ![]()
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#32 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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Thank you for the additional information and link. The wavechange switches seem to be improving after further cleaning and operating.
Can I have suggestions for the number of turns for coils A and B on ferrite rod in attached picture. As you know this component is missing and has been replaced with a simple piece of wire, which works surprisingly well. I have several old ferrite rods so I can have a play around, but I am unable to measure Inductance. Many thanks. John |
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#33 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Düsseldorf, Germany.
Posts: 352
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Hi John,
The number of turns are not given in the schematic. But I have manuals, maybe with deeper informations..... I will ask my brother, because he had maybe a Tannhäuser for sale. I have my parted out antennas not present. ![]() ![]() A clean picture might help. I shall try to find a solution as soon as possible. Regards, German Dalek ![]()
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And now something completly different: MARC BOLAN, he was/is the real king of Pop Music! |
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#34 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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Thank you, I have attached another picture of circuit, this is one you sent me. Please note it is not the 8030, but, as you say, similar.
Also could you tell me which component is the ferrite rod aerial. Thanks. John |
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#35 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 13,452
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In the Fidelio 58 schematic snippet you posted, L23 and L24 are the ferrite rod windings, L23 is the L (LW) winding and L24 is the M (MW) winding.
Contacts that make when the ferrite rod antenna key is pushed are g 1-2, g 4-5, h 1-2, h 4-5. Lawrence. Last edited by ms660; 27th Sep 2023 at 3:56 pm. Reason: extra info |
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#36 |
Nonode
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Kirk Michael, Isle of Man
Posts: 2,295
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I am pretty certain I have a complete ferrite rod with coils, but for something maybe 8 years younger. Not sure if it would work.
I would assume that pretty well any medium / long wave radio of that era would have more or less identical coils. Maybe just needing "pushing along a bit". Les. |
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#37 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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Thank you Lawrence for the information, also thank you Les for the offer, I have several old ferrite rod aerials, so I intend trying them out. The symbol shown in the circuit I thought was for a Loop aerial, and not a ferrite rod, but of course the circuit is only similar to the 8030. Thanks again.
John Last edited by John10b; 27th Sep 2023 at 6:15 pm. |
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#38 |
Nonode
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Aberaeron, Ceredigion, Wales, UK.
Posts: 2,690
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Update, one step back then one step forward.
When considering which ferrite rod to fit the set started to play up again and finally stopped working, or to be clear the LO stopped. As you will have read in previous posts the wavechange switches have been very temperamental and despite using a few different switch cleaners and operating the switches many times they continued to play up. After some considerable amount of poking and scoping the fault was found to be one of the trimmers or it’s associated connections. Despite not having the schematic for this model I used the one for Nordmende Isabella, the front end is close enough, thanks to our two German forum folk for supplying information, German Dalek and Joe Lorenz. John I should have said thank you to roffe, in Sweden for suggesting the Isabella. Last edited by John10b; 9th Oct 2023 at 6:27 pm. Reason: Update. |
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