A pictorial guide to servicing the Collaro Studio autochanger

[Michael Maurice]

The Collaro Studio was the next generation of record player autochangers from Collaro after the Conquest.

There are several differences and improvements over the Collaro Conquest, the pictorial guide to servicing of which can be found here

The differences are:

Improved tone arm with adjustable tracking force (on some pick up arms)

Improved speed selector

Motor mounted on rubber mounts to stop vibration

Quieter change cycle mechanism

User adjustable set down position

User adjustable pick up arm height.



The example I'm working on is a Magnavox Imperial. Magnavox bought out Collaro and the brand all but disappeared from the UK.


This is a picture of a Collaro Studio


This is a picture of the Magnavox imperial


This is the deck with the turntable removed


This is the underside of the deck

[Michael Maurice]

Remove the circlip around the centre of the turntable and lift off the turntable.



Remove the single screw holding the turntable idler and lift off the idler wheel.

Remove the two screws holding the larger cycle change wheel and lift it off. Note some force may be needed, its usually very tight. take care not to damage it.

Remove the single nut on the switch and lift off the cover.

Carefully unsolder the yellow wire

The green wire will also need to be removed but you have to unscrew it from the connector block underneath first.

Remove the operating and speed change knobs.

The operating knob pulls off, the speed change knob is held by a circlip.

[Michael Maurice]

Turn the deck over so the underside is facing you

Remove the circlip on the overarm shaft (arrowed)



Unsolder the wires from the pick up arm which will be either a tag strip or phono sockets.

Remove the green motor wire from the connector block if you havn't already done so.



Remove the circlips around the motor body and remove the motor. I've never had a problem with these motors. So unlike the AC53 fitted to the conquest and earlier decks, I've not stripped one to lubricate the bearings.

[Michael Maurice]

Turn the deck back over, so that its the right way up.

Lift off the overarm and put it to one side,

Loosen the single screw under the pick up arm and remove it, again put it away safely.

Remove the 5 screws (arrowed) that hold the sub chassis to the main deck and carefully allow the sub chassis to drop away.

[Michael Maurice]

You will find probably find that the speed change mechanism is gummed up with dried grease. It should operate easily and without much effort (unlike the conquest)



It should be removed for cleaning and regreasing. The other levers depicted in the picture have to come out in order to get the speed change mechanism out so take plenty of pictures and notes to assist you with reassembling, or you could do it by leaving it in situ and cleaning/regreassing that way.



Check that the speed change operates smoothly and without too much effort.

[Michael Maurice]

Its now time to service the sub chassis.

Carefully move the pickup positioning lever arrowed away from the cam.

Remove the circlip arrowed, do not lose the washer underneath it, and lift off the cam.

Remove the nut and circlip (arrowed) and lift out the gear and its shaft.

This is the underside of the cam remove traces of old grease,

This is the top side of the cam

Dont forget to remove old grease from the cam's central bearing and the spigot.

Apply new grease carefully and sparingly, do not apply grease to the various levers on the cam itself.

[Michael Maurice]

Check that the bearing for the lateral arm (arrowed) moves freely by rotating it by hand. Also that the linkages that operate the trip pawl are also free from grease.

Its now time to refit the cam to the sub plate.

Ensure the pickup operating lever arrowed is moved to the right, it will be moved back when the cam is refitted.

Ensure that the brass insert is fitted.

With your finger move the lever to the right.

Now fit the cam onto its spigot, release the lever and rotate the cam in both directions till it drops fully into place. the brass bit arrowed fits into the hole in the cam.

On the cam you will see its circlip and a spacer, the spacer must be fitted below the circlip

Move the pickup operating lever from the pick up arm (pic 1 this post) back onto the cam

[Michael Maurice]

Now refit the sub chassis to the main deck and fit the 5 screws. Before tightening the two around the base of the pick up arm make sure that the lever arrowed is on top of the screw thread. Note one of the screws around the spindle secures the tag which grounds the motor.

Fit the larger idler wheel making sure that it contacts the second largest step of the motor pulley (the 45 step) and tighten the two screws.

Refit the motor to the deck, fasten using the circlips.

Undo the cover to the switch, and resolder the yellow wire.

Refit the green wire to the terminal block.

Put a drop of oil on the turntable's idler wheel's spindle, refit the turntable idler wheel.

Clean the shaft of the overarm arm and lightly regrease, refit the balacing arm and fit the circlip to it under the deck.

Refit the pick up arm ensuring that it moves freely both vertically and laterally.

We are nearly there.

[Michael Maurice]

Connect the deck to the mains,

Switch the deck on, it will probably start the cycle change and stop.

Restart the deck and make sure that the arm rises to the correct height and moves across before returning and switching off. It is imperative that the arm goes high enough otherwise it will not touch the side of the record but go underneath it and scratch it.

Now restart it again but instead of letting the arm go all the way to the centre, stop it with your finger to simulate a record, the arm should return to its rest, lower a bit, then go back to drop on the record.

Provided these tests prove OK, refit the turntable and test with a record.

Check that the rubber damping ring is fitted to the turntable and that it is in good condition refit the turntable.

Refit the circlip to the centre of the turntable.

[Michael Maurice]

There are 3 Adjustments that can be carried out, a fourth being the tracking weight on some arms they are depicted in the picture as H, J and K

H is the pick up set down position.

J is the pick up height

K is described as the "Pickup depth" and is set so that in play, the stylus should just touch the turntable mat.

And that's it, hopefully you will now have a fully working Collaro Studio autochanger.

[radiotircoed]

Great post Michael. I've just sent this service info to another forum member but a picture is worth a thousand words!