Which mini drill for antique radio repairs?

[pietrafesa]

Dear friends, good afternoon from southern Italy.

I'm searching on the web about a so called "mini drill" to make drills inside wood or metal.
I need a mini drill where I can regulate the power, from few rounds per seconds to thousands.
For example, when I have to drill a hole inside a wood, I need to "mark" the hole putting on it a drill that begin with few rounds per minute, probably 10/50 rps.

Have you never had same problem?
Did you search for a similar drill in the past?
Thank you all for any suggestion, and excuse me for my not perfect written english .

Roberto.

[MapperleyTop]

Hi Roberto,

Have a look at the Dremel range of mini drills. I have owned one for a number of years and it has been very useful. There are many different attachments available for cutting, grinding, polishing as well as drilling.
I assume it is available in Italy as there are Italian instructions with it.

John

[pietrafesa]

Thank you John! No problem with english instructions for me.
I need mandrel that accepts drills up to 10-12 mm, in order to create holes inside wood or plastic panels for put in switches or other panel stuffs.
Dremel and Proxxon seems not to reach up to these dimensions, but only smaller drills.
Isn't it?
Thank you!
Rob

[Bazz4CQJ]

Hi Roberto

Dremel are probably the market leaders but for ~25 years I've been using a Minicraft drill, see http://www.rapidonline.com/SearchRes...x?kw=minicraft

Regards
Barrie

[threeseven]

I'm doubtful that you will find a mini drill with a 10 or 12mm capacity chuck. m Even most DIY cordless drills are upto 10mm, 12mm would be the larger, more expensive drills.

[Julesomega]

Hi Roberto - You should not try to start a large hole with a large drill; start with a sharp point or a 1mm drill, then drill 3mm, 6mm, 12mm. You can do this with one drill if you use a suitable tool:
for wood use this type of drill with a point: http://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-brad...-x-120mm/45155
for metal / plastic sheet use a cone drill, for example http://www.screwfix.com/p/exact-spir...t-4-20mm/97502

- Julian

[lastx33]

Hi Roberto. As others have said, a mini-tool isn't the right thing for low speed operation or for making large holes. They typically have small chucks / collets and don't work well, if at all, below a few thousand rpm. You would be better with a press drill. Mini-tools are designed for high speed precision drilling and grinding. If you do wish to get a mini-tool I can thoroughly recommend the Proxxon Micromot ones. Having tried various well known brands I have found the Proxxon ones to be very durable (and quiet). If you want a very high quality machine and money is no object, Foredom pendant drills are well regarded by jewellers for their torque and durability.

[Station X]

I have a Dremel, but hardly ever use it.

I can't remember ever having to drill or re-drill a hole when restoring a radio.

For radio construction work I use a hand operated drill or the drilling machine.

Portable electric drills are for drilling holes in building materials such a brickwork or wood. I've also used them to drill things too big or too heavy to fit on the drilling machine table.

[paulsherwin]

I have a cheap no name mini drill, but like Graham I rarely use it for vintage radio work.

[pietrafesa]

Thank you all for your suggestions.
For Julian: Ok, I already know about starting with smaller drill and grow up after.
I will study better the situation, and I hope to make right choose.

Roberto

[Nickthedentist]

On the very rare occasions I have to drill holes while restoring vintage radios, I use a Bosch cordless drill - the cheaper kind that does not have hammer action. It feels very precise (minimal chuck wobble and good speed control) and will operate very slowly indeed with plenty of torque (for starting off), then ramp-up to a sensibly high speed for the main drilling procedure.

[paulsherwin]

I often drill with a Bosch cordless screwdriver.

[Bazz4CQJ]

The beauty of the mini-drills is their very high speed combined with their use of router, grinding and slitting wheel attachments rather than their drilling function. I wouldn't be without one, and as my 25 year old one was showing some early signs of wear and tear, its successor already sits beside it.

Using them to re-sharpening of my chainsaw chain just once actually covers the cost of a new drill, and they are frequently in use in the shack