Ferrograph Model 3A/N SER No. 8625

[Aron Neale]

Hi There, My name is Aron I live in Auckland New Zealand. I just bought a 1956 Ferrograph. I think it is a Model 3A/N the SER No. is 8625. I read the 1956 date from the peak signal level meter which has a different SER No. L35137. Can anyone tell me if 3A/N is the correct model number for my reel to reel? It did not come with a power lead so I don't even know if it goes yet. I believe I need a Bulgin 3 pin 22mm 7/8 inch 5A 250V plug. Does anyone know the best place I can find one of these? I own a recording studio and I bought this reel to reel as a bit of an ornament but now I've researched it I'm keen to see if it works. I’d also be really keen to find an Aux socket plug to I can connect it to my studio mixing desk. Does anyone know what this Aux plug is called? Your help with this is very much appreciated. Regards, Aron

[brenellic2000]

We really need to see a photograph as there were many different variants of the same basic deck, hence the /N etc. Serial numbers are generally in sequence and relate to job-numbers rather than a specific model. The Bulgin plugs often appear on e-bay with a hefty price tag.

[llama]

I suspect the Aux socket is a B gauge connector. Sometimes called PO 316. Like a stereo 1/4 inch headphone plug only with a much smaller tip. Does that seem plausible from what you have in front of you?
Graham

[Aron Neale]

Hi There, Here are some photos, please can someone tell me what model number this Ferrograph Reel to Reel is. Cheers, Aron

[Aron Neale]

I have attached a photo of the AUX socket, can anyone tell me what this socket is called and where I can get a plug for it?

[brenellic2000]

It certainly looks like Srs.3 (N - 'normal' range of speeds up to 7-1/2ips). The dummy knob (front far right) should easily lift out and should in theory match that at the back. I suggest an appeal in the 'wants' pages. I also suggest you get a copy of the Srs.3 manual - they often appear on e-Bay...

[dave walsh]

Hi Aron. That looks to be an international octal socket to me which will require a matching plug. Octal refers to the configuration of the base pins in the Octal series of valves. The valve sockets+plus matching plugs were also used to create connecting cables at that time ie with up to 8 wires. You will need advice from the "reel" experts like Brenellic on this though! It should be possible to get Octal and Bulgin [power] plugs but don't apply that power unless you have appropriate knowledge and skills to check the whole machine out first or you may regret it.

Just to complicate things further, I believe there was perhaps a variation in the Octal base [to ensure that only valves from a particular company could be used] but [I think] your aux socket is standard. Searching for a manual or other TR threads [top of the page] might answer questions about the usage of that feature. There's also info re the plugs you'll need. I hope that's some help until the people who really know what they are talking about turn up [taking the time difference into account].

Dave W
S East UK

[TonyDuell]

There was a variation of the (international) octal base known as the Mazda octal. But I have never seen it used as a connector, only as a valveholder.

You need to check what the AUX socket is for before connecting anything to it. With that connector it may well not be audio signals, in fact it would not surprise me if it was a power output socket to run a preamplfiier and/or radio tuner. It might carry 6.3v AC for valve heaters and a 250V or so DC supply for the anodes.

[yestertech]

Hi Aron
The aux socket(s) are both 'international octal' and matching plugs for these are available, as they were used extensively at that time ( Leak and Radford amps, Vortexions etc ).
However, To connect the audio from your mixing desk, all you need is a standard 1/4 inch jack plug, inserted into input 2. Recording level then adjusted using the adjacent volume control.
If you want to record using a mic. direct, same plug type but use input 1.

Andy

[Goodizzy]

I have one these machines. Mine is the high speed version, model 3A/NH, running at 7 1/2 and 15 IPS. I can't see from the images which version you have. This unit has the lettering beside the speed selection flipper switch. (You can also determine from the capstan sleeve diameter and size)

I have a physical copy of the manual but I may also have a pdf version available. If not, I could scan the schematic and upload.

I have not started restoring this unit yet. I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts as you restore. I am hoping to add an input transformer to the mic 2 input and maybe exchange the output transformer to a more appropriate line out step down. The only letdown is the shared record/playback head in these earlier models. It would be nice to have them separate along with their associated amplifiers. Ah well- to think these things were meant to be portable!

[dave walsh]

I got the feeling that the OP may be expecting to just "plug in and play" regardless so it will be interesting to hear his thoughts on this recorder....as and when he returns

Dave W

[Goodizzy]

Yikes! Don't do that- those electrolytics are 60 years old!

[Tim]

Yes, certainly on later models HT and heaters were available at the aux plug. ISTR there was also a method of switching the hold in solenoid to provide crude remote start stop. You need a manual really as there was quite a bit of variance, not only between seriess but models as well. Chances are there will already be a transformer on the first input (mic 1). Again the manual will tell you this.

[dave walsh]

The OP said "It didn't come with a power lead so I don't even know if it goes yet" Goodizzy, so he might "fire it up"...it happens .....especially if you haven't the technical knowledge. Although he does know it's from 56

Dave W.

[Aron Neale]

HI Good Dizzy, If you could email me a PDF of this series 3 manual it would be very much appreciated my email address is removed by moderator