HMV 2182 dial cord replacement

[Hammonds]

Hi Folks
I have an HMV 2182 radio where the dial cord has finally broken.

I've removed the chassis and dial assembly as per the manufacturer's service sheet but I can't see any way of accessing the pointer to fit a new cord.

Any help would be most welcome.

Cheers

Dave

[Kentode]

Dave, have you removed the two scale trims and the scale (what you are calling the dial)?

That should give you access to the cursor (pointer).

I must admit, that does look like a tricky one!

[Hammonds]

Hi Ken
Many thanks.
I've removed to two scale trims and the scale.
I can move the pointer as far as possible to the left and right, but I can't see how to remove the pointer in order to fit a new dial cord. (see pics). It seems as if part of the pointer slides in a horizontal channel behind the white background card which appears to be attached to a solid piece of plastic.
I hope that makes sense!
Any ideas will be gratefully received
Dave

[Kentode]

Read the service instructions again Dave. It says that the back scale and the chassis can be separated (three screws and poly washers)

Can you take more photos from the back of the scale please?

[Hammonds]

Hi Ken

Thanks again for your help and patience.

The latest attached photo shows the back of the PCB and the "chassis" with 2 hex head screws (indicated with red arrows)attaching the "chassis" to the "rear scale trim". I can't see any spacers, though. Are these the screws referred to in the service info?

I can't see 3 screws and associated spacers.

The problem for me is that I can't identify some of the components in the service info such as "rear scale trim".

I'm probably looking in the wrong place for rear scale trim.

Cheers

Dave

[Kentode]

Hmm, they do look like they're holding the scale and chassis together. If you flip the radio upside-down is there another similar fixing, perhaps in the middle of the scale?



Also be careful of the wires connecting the controls to the circuit board.

If that's the case l would begin by loosening one at the end, then the middle one and see if the scale begins to separate.

Go carefully and take lots of pictures from different angles, using a movable light source.

Only remove the fixings completely when you're satisfied that no springs or levers are going to escape from the mechanism!

Good luck

Be careful of the wires connecting the controls to the circuit board.

[Hammonds]

Hi Ken
Sorry for the delay.

The piece of plastic which supports the white opaque polystyrene? sheet behind the pointer is "welded" at three points to the main part of the plastic frame which, in turn is connected to the chassis and PCB.

I managed to separate the two parts to release the pointer and the broken dial cord.

All I have to do now is to replace the dial cord, re-attach (weld/screw) the white backing plate and re-assemble.

Thanks for all your comments. Wish me luck!

Dave

[Kentode]

That's great! Take more pictures as you go, that way you can post them here or in the success story thread.

You never know if someone out there has the exact same problem that you've just solved.

[Boater Sam]

Ah, they used 3 of the famous Mk2 glue screws to fasten it then.
As production progresses the bean counters pare away at costs.
Later models are always put together with glue or clips it seems rather than screws.

[Hammonds]

Hi Boater Sam
Thanks for that.
I think I can deal with the Mk 2 screws!
But if anyone has any tips or clues on how to restring the beast, especially around the weird two spools (picture attached) I would be extremely grateful.

Cheers

Dave

[Kentode]

Get some blutack, masking tape and some stiff wire.
The uncovered earth from twin and earth is ideal.

I'll study the manual and pencil some notes then post them here tonight.

[Kentode]

First make your tools! Stiff wire with a hook as shown in the picture.

[Kentode]

Following the diagram, turn the drum fully clockwise and attach the cord with a knotted loop secured with blutack.

Wind seven turns on the tuning drive, from the bottom up, secure with a piece of masking tape.

Now wind five turns on the lower pulley, making sure that the slot is facing the front of the radio. Secure with tape again.

Go around the first cord guide, secure with tape, then around the second guide and secure.

Now clip on the cursor at the far right as per the diagram.

Align the slot in the pulley as shown towards the bottom of the radio. Wind four turns from the top down. You may have to secure each turn as you go.

Then feed the cord through the slot and put one turn on the small pulley and secure.

Take the cord around the drive drum and make a pencil mark where the spring will be attached. Unwind from the drive drum and attach spring on the mark. Don't cut the excess cord off yet!

Remove all the tape and blutack and test by gently rotating the tuning dial. If the cursor travels in the right direction and the cord remains secure you can cut off the excess. If there is any slippage then reapply tape to the drive drum, release the spring and move the knot away from the spring by 10-15mm and reattach.

All this may work first time! If not, keep trying!

Good luck.

[Hammonds]

Hi Ken
Thanks very much for all the info.
I'm on the hunt for a suitable piece of wire to form the tools you've described.

I'm away for a few days and hope to get back on the case ASAP.

With best wishes and thanks again.

Dave

[Hammonds]

Hi Ken
A Eureka moment - hurrah!!
Thanks for all your help!
After many shortenings of the dial cord the cursor now travels from end to end and each time, some slack appears from nowhere and the cord/spring has to be adjusted.
Anyway, I'm very happy and all I have to do now is to re-assemble.
Thanks to everyone who has helped with this project.

Mods, could you close, please. And thanks

Dave