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Old 9th Jun 2010, 6:18 pm   #41
Colin
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Congratulations Col, and very well deserved!
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Old 10th Jun 2010, 8:57 am   #42
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Well deserved, Col, after all the time and trouble making all those gears.
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Old 26th Jun 2011, 10:26 pm   #43
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Hi,

A belated thanks Colin and Mike; I've been busy on other projects but two of the very recent projects concern this wave winder.

Although the winder is fully restored and in working order I still had two outstanding jobs to do. The first was to make a decent crank to replace the temporary crank I made and the second was to sort out a better way of storing all the change gears.

I'll cover making the new crank first. I selected some mild steel round bar stock and cut a length for attaching the crank arm to the driving spindle. This was faced in the lathe then bored axially at 7/16" Dia to suit the spindle.

Next I selected a heavy section of rectangular mild steel for the arm; one end was profiled to fit neatly to the newly turned round section and the other end was bored and countersunk to accept a countersunk setscrew. The round bar previously used as a grip was then reused but now I decided to add a revolving wooden handle.

I turned the wooden handle on the DML 24" woodturning lathe from an off cut of Meranti hardwood and deep bored the new handle to match the spindle; the only problem was that the drill bit wandered quite badly which was unusual as I've done similar boring jobs many times. This handle was thrown in the bin and another Meranti handle turned as before; this too proved a failure as this hole too was off centre so the second handle was thrown in the bin.

Time to call it a day and try a different method so this time I selected an off cut of oak and after cutting this to length bored the hole first!! Next job was to turn a hardwood spindle between centres with the inner section carefully turned to a friction fit size to suit the hole. This spindle was cut in half giving me two wooden plugs; one plug was already centred for the ring centre the other plug was already matched to the drive centre so after knocking the plugs home and mounting the oak blank it was quickly turned making a nice handle and for a bit of decoration I used the hot wire method to add decorative rings taking the handle from OK to just a bit better.

Using a wire in the lathe to apply burnt rings to revolving timber is highly dangerous as a novice could easily lose fingers. Wire or in fact anything must never ever be wrapped around a hand or fingers where moving machinery is concerned. my wire has one end wrapped around a bed bar allowing it to slide freely and the other end has a crude wooden handle fitted; to use I simply slide the wire along the bed bar until it is exactly at right angles to the spinning work; the wooden handle is brought over the top of the work and the handle lowered bringing the wire into contact; practice is needed to get the wire in the correct position and keep it there otherwise a spiral is quickly produced; the more wire brought into contact the more friction is caused resulting in lots of smoke as the wire heats up whilst burning the ring; care is also needed because the wire will glow red hot so it must not be touched.

The rectangular arm was welded to the round section and once cooled the weld was fettled and made smooth using the angle grinder. The round section was drilled and tapped to accept two grub screws. The spindle was then secured with a set screw and a home turned thick countersunk brass washer; the spindle was very slightly longer than the wooden handle allowing the handle to rotate once the set screw was fully tightened. Having now tested the handle turned freely the handle was removed and the new crank was under-coated using a Poundland spray can of grey undercoat then I thought I would once again try to use my new compressor/air brush kit but I just can't get the hang of this air brush so gave up and pulled out my HVLP spray gun and hooked this up to one of my big compressors and used it to apply the same cream/white paint as I had used for spraying the winder; the HVLP gun made a superb job of applying the paint.

The paint was allowed to dry overnight then the handle was slid home and retained in place with the brass washer and set screw. the crank was then fitted to the winder and looked much better; I was now happy to have completed the new crank. The gear storage took rather more time and effort and will follow shortly.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 26th Jun 2011, 11:15 pm   #44
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Hello Col. that is an excellent 1st class job that you are doing there, excellent description too, nice to see a bit of engineering.
Good luck with the project.

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Old 27th Jun 2011, 12:52 am   #45
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

C ol,
When can I bring my first coil Project?
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Old 27th Jun 2011, 11:15 am   #46
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Default

Hi,

Many thanks for the kind comments Lawrence they are much appreciated.

I’ve not done any coil winding with this machine Alan because the building society tell me I’m too old to get a mortgage to buy a coil of suitable winding wire; I’ve got lots of enameled wire but this is unsuitable for use with the wave winder. I hope Santa brings me some for Christmas.

My chum David (Yorkie) very kindly sent me construction drawings and user information regarding a home made router comb jointing jig and this came in very handy indeed as seen below.

Looking at the four stacks of change gears sitting on the bench I thought now is the time to give them a home to be proud of. Right from the start housing these gears was no push over because of the many sizes involved; I didn’t want the smaller gears rattling around in the bottom of a box being difficult to reach and although locating the gears onto vertical pegs would be easy; in use though the bottom gears would be difficult to extract from the box so after a lot of thought I came up with the idea of adding packing under the gears to bring all the gear tops to the same level being just under the lid; this worked OK in my head but was very difficult to put into practice.

The gears being of many different diameters not only wanted packing from below but would also require side packing and this caused me quite a few headaches; eventually I settled on stepped packing but arranging the gears to fit neatly into a wooden box started to take my life over as so many previous projects have done.

After taking many measurements I determined the inside dimensions of the wooden box and allowed a ¼” on length breadth and height. About three years ago a neighbour installed a new staircase and I salvaged the old hardwood staircase storing it flat pack under our bungalow. I selected a couple of boards and put them through the planer/thicknesser planing both sides to clean them up and reduce each board to 7/16” thick. This timber which I believe is Meranti and it is very stable machined up beautifully.

The timber was then ripped to width on the saw bench and cross cut on the chop saw but at this point I was concentrating on every move I made and it is extremely easy to get carried away and end up with undersized pieces so care was taken to ensure the widths of both joints were added to the lengths of each piece.

This is where David’s information came in very handy indeed as I then set about making the router comb jointing jig. The jig was very straightforward to make from offcuts. After making the jig and attaching the router I found the ¼” Dia. Router cutter was too short as I had used ¾” thick plywood for the jig table so after drawing around the router base the underside of the table was recessed to ¼” deep using the router giving the required cutter projection above the table. With the jig made and the router attached the on/of switch of the router was tightly wrapped with cord securing it at the on position; the router could now be switched at the plug socket.

More offcuts were selected as test pieces and I found the jig to be incredibly easy to adjust; the third test joint came out a perfect friction fit that would require knocking together.

The four box sides where run through the jig taking a lot of care to align the joints so that the front and rear pieces had a full finger at the top and the two side pieces had a recess at the top; this is so easy to get wrong.

The joints were then glued and knocked tightly home using a hammer and protection; after checking for square excess glue was removed and now the top and bottom pieces could be marked out using the jointed sides as a template. I wanted this box to be a bit special after all I had already spent considerable time making the gears. The top and bottom pieces were made large enough to accept a router cut moulding which was added once the two pieces were cut to size. I was absolutely delighted with the new router jig and have since used again to make a second box.

Once the glue had set the joints were quickly brought down flush using my home made 4” belt sander fitted with a very aggressive 60 grit belt. Next job was to sand everything using my Bosch random orbit sander; this sander leaves a beautiful finish devoid of swirl marks.

The box sides were then placed on the bottom piece taking care to centre it then a pencil was run around both inside and outside leaving the position of the box on the bottom; with only 7/16” thickness to work with extra care was needed whilst boring the screw holes and the underside of the bottom piece was also countersunk to accept the screw heads; the bottom was then screwed tightly into place.

As the gears are heavy I wanted a way of lifting the box and settled on turning four feet in the woodturning lathe; these feet were also turned from Meranti and finished in the lathe adding a burnt ring decoration to each. The feet were then through bored and countersunk and attached with a single wood screw each. With the feet added the box could be easily lifted.

A pair of brass butt hinges where used to attach the lid and this completed the main box. Now the fun really started as I tried to work out all the dimensions of the internal packing pieces. I tried measuring each gear with an engineers rule but keeping track of all the measurements drove me mad as I then realized that not only the diameters had to be considered but also the gear width; the width of each step had to be very accurate to allow each gear to fully seat on a step.

Poundland is a wonderful store and came to my rescue as I had one of their small drawing books which I put to good use with a pencil. For each row of gears I sketched a simple diagram of a set of steps; for accuracy I used my digital vernier caliper on the depth setting and by removing gears from the stack I could measure each step adding the measurement to the sketch; some gears were identical and extended steps were noted for these. Four such packing pieces to sit the gears on were needed and each piece was made parallel to the diameter of the largest gear in each row. Selecting suitable off cuts of Meranti the four packing pieces were painstakingly marked and cut out using the large bandsaw. Legs were added to the deeper packing pieces and after many hours work of measuring and cutting the gears fitted nicely into the box but I still had a long way to go because stepped pieces were also required for dividing the rows of gears to prevent them rolling around in the box so once again many accurate measurements were taken and the dividers were cut out.

The lid was removed from the box to prevent it becoming damaged as the packing pieces and gears were constantly checked for fit and at last everything looked good; as a bonus the ¼" extra allowed on size was perfect as it enabled a spanner to be included; this would mean a suitable spanner for gear changing was always to hand.

The box was then stained in Jacobean Oak and French polished the inside was also finished nicely. It never surprises me how long my projects take to accomplish because they usually start off simple then rapidly become very complicated.

Looking at the restored winder and the neatly boxed set of change wheels gives me a great deal of satisfaction; this whole project has taken considerable time but in spite of the many problems encountered it has been highly enjoyable.

I think our neighbour now feels he was a bit hasty in disposing of the old staircase after seeing the completed box; it's wonderful to make something useful out of material that would end up at the local tip; the timber for this box was free of charge; the hinges were in stock and the finishing materials are left over from other projects; what a cheap hobby this is.

There is a final part to this story and it is the icing on the cake; it will follow shortly.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 27th Jun 2011, 12:59 pm   #47
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

A very beautiful piece of work, Col.

I admire not only your design, engineering and woodworking skills, but also your infinite patience in bringing a project like this to fruition.

Kind regards,
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Old 27th Jun 2011, 4:27 pm   #48
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Looking at your work and the quality of the things you produce fills me with a vicarious pleasure and satisfaction Col. I really admire, not only the skills you undoubtedly have, but the wonderful way you set about addressing these challenges. Truly remarkable. You certainly set the standard for us all to aim for! Inspirational stuff.
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Old 27th Jun 2011, 7:51 pm   #49
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Hi,

Thank you so much for such kindness Dave and Colin; sometimes I think you just can’t beat the old fashioned apprenticeships where pride of doing a top class job to the best of your ability was beaten into you; this has remained with me for almost fifty years and I feel privileged to have had such skilled tutors.

I could have called it a day having reached the stage of finishing the winder restoration and finally housing the change gears but I know of two other such AVO wave winders both without gears; I don’t want this to ever happen again with my winder and in order to tie the gears to the winder decided to try to make a fancy brass nameplate for the box lid declaring the contents.

I knew exactly what style I wanted the nameplate to be and visualize it in my head which is always a good start. The technique I intended to use is ancient and I got the inspiration from Boulle Work;

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bou...w=1024&bih=629

My idea was to cut out an AVO logo and letters from thin brass sheet and glue them onto a backing of thicker brass sheet. I have a very expensive top of the range Hegner Scrollsaw but I wanted to see if I was up to doing this work entirely by hand?

When I bought the Hegner (second hand) I also bought a selection of piercing saw blades as used by jewelers; these blades cut metal and come in a range of different teeth per inch (TPI). I selected the finest blade and installed it into my fretsaw; a proper piercing saw frame is somewhat different to a fretsaw but the fretsaw will do the same job but is more unwieldy due to the larger throat.

I had a sheet of thick brass and went to buy a sheet of thinner brass and at the price I think oxygen should have been supplied because a small sheet of 15 thou thick 9”x7.5” cost £4; I know I’m tight!! I then spent ages surfing the web for a decent AVO logo but kept finding AVO car parts; in the end I pulled out the winder manual and scanned the AVO logo then printed out multiple copies on my very poor Samsung mono laser printer. This printer was bought new years ago costing £80 and was always a poor performer right from the start; even with a genuine toner cartridge installed and “toner save” switched off it would only print a very dark grey but it was all I had so would have to suffice. My Epson all in one printer is even worse as it eats cartridges and I now refuse to buy yet another cartridge; I can install a brand new cartridge and after printing a test page the cartridge shows half empty; I did surf the web and found other owners of the same model all having the same cartridge problem even though they were using Epson cartridges.

The Logo was cut out and double sided tape used to secure it to the brass sheet. 1.5mm holes wire drilled at each inner section requiring removal. I quickly put together a sawing table to mount in the woodworking vice making this from offcuts. I had never previously tried to cut metal so thin using a saw but within five minutes was feeling totally frustrated; I was sitting comfortably at the vice but felt cold; the strip light above cast a poor light and to make matters worse my head was looking at the ceiling whilst I tried to focus through my bi-focal glasses keeping the blade to the poor print out.

I dumped my glasses onto the bench and got up close and personal to the brass sheet ensuring I didn’t poke my eyes with the saw frame. Now I could actually see what the blade was doing giving me a great deal of control; the dark grey print out would have been much more help had it been jet black but I found my rhythm with the saw and started to enjoy myself forgetting how cold I felt. These piercing saw blades are incredibly sharp and fast cutting. One tip whilst installing the blade into the saw is not to bother looking which way the teeth are pointing but to feel them with a thumb.

At first I thought the cut edges to be ragged but upon closer inspection found this to be brass dust adhering to the double sided tape. Great care and patience is required in order to avoid distorting the items being cut out and maximum support is needed very close to the blade especially as the thin sections started to appear. I was delighted when I inspected the cut out logo and it would take little fettling before use.

Inspired by this initial success I then selected a suitable font and printed out the letters; the larger letters are 3/8” tall and the smaller ¼” tall. The same procedure was followed but this time I used a 1mm drill bit as the cut outs were tiny and one afternoon I spent four hours cutting out 21 letters. I felt tired with concentrating so hard but after tea feeling refreshed cut the remaining 10 letters in three quarters of an hour.

I bought a new set of needle files from Screwfix expecting to pay over £7 but at the counter was informed the price had been reduced to £2.69. These files proved ideal for cleaning the sawn edges and the method I used was to mount an offcut of timber into the woodworking vice and pinned the letter to the offcut with a thumb nail whilst using the other hand to do the filing; I don’t own a small vise but this worked very well.

Bronwyn had very kindly loaned me her tube of Unibond Extreme power glue and this was used to glue the AVO logo onto the brass sheet; I found this to be a difficult job because the glue oozed out of the tube sticking everything including me but eventually the logo was stuck down. The following day whilst at our local post office I saw and bought a tube of Loctite super glue liquid; this was described as ideal for gluing metal and had a fine nozzle.

Back home I had already sanded the gluing surface of each letter and as the brass sheet was brand new and clean I spent over an hour gluing the letters in place; then left them for over five hours for the glue to set just to be on the safe side. The same night I couldn’t resist going into the workshop intending to cut the nameplate from the sheet of brass. I cut the narrow edge of the plate first then as I turned it around clumsily dropped the brass sheet onto the carpet; I was both dismayed and disgusted when I picked the sheet up leaving half the letters on the carpet!! The remaining letters merely slid from the sheet with the slightest push. What a waste of time it had been using the super glue and now I still had the problem of how to attach the letters?

Up until now the entire job had been incredibly fiddly but this was a low point and a solution was needed. The AVO logo remained glued solid and couldn’t be moved but this had been glued with the Unibond so I needed a way of controlling the flow of glue from the tube. I had considered adding a blob of Unibond to a card and using either an artists small brush or a pointed matchstick but feared the glue would begin to gel much too quickly after all it took well over an hour to glue the letters using the super glue.

Looking at the tube of glue in my hand all I needed was a very fine nozzle to fit the tube? The tube cap looked substantial and would it possibly grind into a point? A few minutes later I had ground the cap to a point using the disc sander and drilled a 1mm dia hole through its end. Now at last I was feeling more confident and using tweezers to hold the letters the glue could be easily applied directly from the nozzle giving me full control and then using the tweezers and a craft knife each letter was placed in position and pressed securely home. This time the glue went where intended and not a drop ended up on my fingers or the bench; such a simple solution now I know the answer. I then spent a little while cutting out 1/8” wide strips from the brass sheet and after trimming to length these were glued to form a border around the edge of the nameplate. Not wanting another failure I sanded all the joining surfaces using 240 grit wet or dry abrasive paper before gluing. The plate was then left a full day in a warm place to allow the glue to fully set.

The next patience testing job was to remove surplus glue using the craft knife and this job alone took over an hour whilst sitting at my computer table and giving me an aching neck. The nameplate was now looking as expected and was taken into the garage. The nameplate was placed on the cast iron band saw table and sanded with 240grit wet or dry the paper being backed with a small flat wooden block; once again this was a slow process as I didn’t want to heat the letters and logo in case it melted the glue. With everything now brought down flush I used a spray can of Poundland black acrylic lacquer covering the entire face of the plate. I didn’t use undercoat as this would possibly show up as very fine lines of grey at the finishing stage. The paint was flooded on and then allowed to dry in hot sunshine; two more flowing coats of paint were added allowing each coat to dry. I thought sanding the bare plate to be tiring but sanding the applied paint from the letters and logo made my arms ache. With the sanding completed I blew over with a coat of clear acrylic lacquer.

The result was outstanding and after a weeks work I now had the nameplate of my dreams in my hand. The picture shows the nameplate sitting on the box lid but it will be an easy job to secure it.

This has been the longest and most difficult project I’ve completed to date and I’m over the moon with the way it all finally turned out; the nameplate to me is the icing on the cake.

Many thanks to everyone for following this story and above all a sincere thank you for all your continued kindness and encouragement.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 28th Jun 2011, 7:31 am   #50
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

What we all want to know is how soon you can start knocking out repro Denco coils or a few Repanco DRR2 knock-offs.

Line forms at the mans door...............
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Old 30th Jun 2011, 5:10 pm   #51
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Hi,

Thanks Neil, the only thing holding me up apart from the skill to use the winder is the cost of the covered winding wire.

The skill I could soon pick up but getting hold of the wire without instant bankruptcy is the difficult part.

I had actually considered winding a number of the more common LOPTx coils keeping a stock of each for supply on an exchange basis. I've never used the winder but assume once it is set up for a particular coil it shouldn't be too difficult to run a number off at the same time.

I also own a standard manual AVO Douglas coil winder which is a joy to use and a couple of years ago bought two expensive German Aumann electric winders; unfortunately there is only one foot control between the two and this foot control has recently failed so this is another project I'm currently playing with. The Aumann winders are lovely machines and I wondered if I could convert one of them into a wave winder; now that would be a super project to tackle.

Please note that I don't take on coil winding work as it is too time consuming and I only wind coils (transformers) for my own sets; I might experiment though when I do get time as it would be interesting to wind a batch of DAC 90 output transformers and to this end I actually bought a 10Kg bobbin of suitable wire for the primaries.

Kind regards, Col.
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Old 9th Oct 2012, 2:32 am   #52
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Would this component be anything like the final product once you have finished the restoration?
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Old 9th Oct 2012, 8:44 am   #53
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Unfortunately Colin no longer has his coil winders see the thread here

Cheers

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Old 9th Oct 2012, 10:03 am   #54
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Default Re: AVO Douglas wave winder.

Ironically, Col lives within a mile of a manufacturer of small*, extra-high precision gears!

David

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