Samsung WS-32Z419D CRT tv not turning on.

[Snarf81]

Hi all.

My Samsung WS-32Z419D crt tv has decided to show an orange light in the stand-by display and it's not turning on.
It was working fine this morning before I unplugged it to do some decorating.
Connecting it back up and an orange light now appears where it's usually red.

Does anyone have any suggestions to what it could be please?

Many thanks
Richard.

[HamishBoxer]

You are certainly in stand by,I wonder one are the batteries ok in the remote?And two having unplugged it,then it may be showing up some duff caps in the secondary of the power supply.

[Heatercathodeshort]

As HB has mentioned, electrolytic capacitors in power supply have probably dried out and gone O/C. The warmth with the receiver in stand have kept them hanging on but a total switch off finished them off. Change them all.
The most common fault with flat screen models. John.

[HamishBoxer]

Thanks John,and back in the day of a certain SkyBox sat receiver,when the mains went off in re applying it was good bye to all the silicon in the power supply!

[Snarf81]

Ahh, thank you for the replies!

I know the batteries in the remote are fine, but I'd never seen an orange light before.

I've never had the back off it before, so I'll have to have a rummage to check out the power supply. Would the duff capacitors be bulged or visibly defective?

Many thanks again
Richard.

[jayceebee]

Faulty capacitors can sometimes be spotted with the just the naked eye. See here https://www.robotroom.com/Faulty-Capacitors-1.html


John.

[Snarf81]

Lovely, thanks, John!

I'll get the back off the set tomorrow and see what's lurking on the power supply board and post a few pictures.

Cheers
Richard.

[toshiba tony]

I seem to remember this one. Amazed no one else has. An orange standby light!!! Red and green give an orangey glow. Can't remember the cause but we used to buy an artic a week of Samsung returns a week and this symptom was common. Both sections of the standby led is lit.

[ben]

Don't know if it was just me, but I never had much luck with later period CRT Samsungs. One 28" s53A chassis that came my way had this symptom. Line transformer duff. A replacement from HR, which I had to fit as the original was NLA, lasted about nine months.

The heat sinks were truly pathetic for both the SMPS and the LOP stage, they always seemed to run hot as a result.

Another one had a tube go weak after only 3 years or so. ISTR reducing the value of one resistor on the CRT PCB gave it a bit more life.

Another of similar vintage had a PSU which seemed to consist of little more than a dozen tiny zener diodes! Fiddly work... At least that worked after a rebuild that took far longer than it should have done.

Sorry for the rant, and hope you get yours going!

[toshiba tony]

Yes, the Plano range was bad. We scrapped lots of the 28\32 FST sets due to purity errors. We had dealerships for Samsung and Sharp. Even the Sharp GS was better than the Samsungs. Sharp's were full of class d and ran cooler. The audio outputs didn't have a sink on it. The 32 Plano weighed a ton. I could just about manage one on my own, changed a tube on one. Took it out, discharged it first, was walking across the w\s and got a kick off it across my chest. I hung on to it though, 30 years on I still shudder thinking about it.

[Snarf81]

I've got the back off the set and I can't see any visibly duff capacitors, a lot of dust though. Haha.

I'll now check the regulators(?) for crack solder joints.

Pics attached.

Cheers
Richard.

[Snarf81]

Success!

The caps all looked fine. I did resolder some dodgy looking joints on the regulators/heatsink, it still didn't turn on.

Then I noticed that a connector on one of the boards had a loose/broken solder joint. I resoldered it and the darn thing came back to life!

I've attached a picture on the board and a close up of the dodgy connector.

Many thanks for the replies and advice, it's much appreciated.

Cheers
Richard.

[ben]

Was it the one marked AKB by any chance? That sounds like the tube blanking circuit which measured cathode emissions

[Snarf81]

It was CN05, NC top pin that had a totally cracked and loose solder connection. Moving the set about must've caused it to fail?

Regards
Richard.

[Lloyd 1985]

I always thought NC meant no connection? Good that it’s working again though! I have one of these Samsung’s tucked away in storage, is yours the one with built in freeview and HDMI socket?

Regards
Lloyd

[Snarf81]

Hi Lloyd,

Yes, it's got built in freeview and hdmi socket. It works a treat with all of my old vcrs.

Regards
Richard.

[HamishBoxer]

Those purple or mauve one,s I have had dry up before.The duff one,s do not always look obvious.
This is where a good ESR meter comes in.

Still,you have a good result and yes NC is normally no connection.

[Snarf81]

I've made a note of all the electrolytic capacitors on that main board, so when I get the chance I'll order new ones, then I'll replace the lot so I'll know it'll hopefully work for another 10 years or so. Haha.

Incidentally, that connector with the broken solder joint, the cable went to a small PCB that was mounted to the facia of the tv on the left hand side bottom (as you look at it from behind).

Thanks again for the advice on it!

Cheers
Richard.

[Snarf81]

Can this be closed now please Mods?

Again, many thanks for the advice on it.

Kind regards
Richard.