Using Lead free solder. - Page 2 - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

crackle · 17th Oct 2019, 9:21 am

It is always best to suck off as much lead free solder as possible, if you are remaking the joint with normal 60/40 tin lead solder.

I have found that lead free solder gives a dull crystalline finish to a joint.
Mike

Techman · 17th Oct 2019, 12:20 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by John M0GLN

"When soldering use lead free solder, Sn-Ag-Cu."

It particularly says to use only the solder with a SILVER content, which means not to use the cheap, basic version.

FrankB · 18th Oct 2019, 7:23 am

When I was in business, I "loved" the lead free solder. It provided me with a tremendous income repairing the connections on the TV and radio sets.
(Here RCA/TCE was famous for tuner problems from bad lead free solder conn, that would also blow out the EEprom $$ Cha-Ching!)

It's pure garbage, IMHO.

I would suck the lead free off and use lead solder to insure I had a good joint.
The wave soldering used by some of the mfgr's. was not really good using it.

I will stick to lead solder as long as my stash holds out, then go to silver solder. I likely will still have some left after I die.

KeithsTV · 18th Oct 2019, 9:04 am

When I was at work we had designed a unit which was manufactured by a contract manufacturer. It was around the time industry was transitioning to lead free solder and we had many problems with units failing. Out of the first months production around 20% of the units failed. I was part of the team that investigated the failures which we discovered were primarily due to failed solder joints on the BGAs. One failed joint could cause the unit to fail. It was all down to the soldering process which they hadn't got right plus a few other issues with cleaning the PCB. Once the processes were changed we had fewer failures due to failed joints.

We also had a clear out of all the leaded solder at work and rather than chuck it all out it was distributed to anyone who wanted it as long as it was removed from the premises. I got a couple of reels which should last me a few more years.

If I have to resolder an unleaded joint I try to remove as much of the unleaded solder as possible before resoldering with "real" solder.

Keith

Karen O · 19th Oct 2019, 9:05 pm

Hmm. I've used cheap Sn/Cu solder for all of my projects, and while the joints don't look good, I've never had one fail. Maybe I've changed my technique in some way to compensate for the poorer 'flow'.

Sometimes this solder spits tiny little balls of solder that require careful removal but that might be because my iron isn't at the right temperature (my iron's cheap too

)

greg_simons · 19th Oct 2019, 10:09 pm

Never really had any problems with lead free, did have to upgrade the metcal to higher temperature bits though, the solder I'm using has some silver in it and was horrifically expensive at the time, as others here point out bga chips are a nightmare and can just fall right off the board after a while.
Greg.

17th Oct 2019, 9:21 am	#21
crackle Rest in Peace Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Basildon, Essex, UK. Posts: 4,100	Re: Using Lead free solder. It is always best to suck off as much lead free solder as possible, if you are remaking the joint with normal 60/40 tin lead solder. I have found that lead free solder gives a dull crystalline finish to a joint. Mike

18th Oct 2019, 7:23 am	#23
FrankB Heptode Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Olympia, Washington, USA. Posts: 664	Re: Using Lead free solder. When I was in business, I "loved" the lead free solder. It provided me with a tremendous income repairing the connections on the TV and radio sets. (Here RCA/TCE was famous for tuner problems from bad lead free solder conn, that would also blow out the EEprom $$ Cha-Ching!) It's pure garbage, IMHO. I would suck the lead free off and use lead solder to insure I had a good joint. The wave soldering used by some of the mfgr's. was not really good using it. I will stick to lead solder as long as my stash holds out, then go to silver solder. I likely will still have some left after I die.

18th Oct 2019, 9:04 am	#24
KeithsTV Nonode Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: South Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK. Posts: 2,573	Re: Using Lead free solder. When I was at work we had designed a unit which was manufactured by a contract manufacturer. It was around the time industry was transitioning to lead free solder and we had many problems with units failing. Out of the first months production around 20% of the units failed. I was part of the team that investigated the failures which we discovered were primarily due to failed solder joints on the BGAs. One failed joint could cause the unit to fail. It was all down to the soldering process which they hadn't got right plus a few other issues with cleaning the PCB. Once the processes were changed we had fewer failures due to failed joints. We also had a clear out of all the leaded solder at work and rather than chuck it all out it was distributed to anyone who wanted it as long as it was removed from the premises. I got a couple of reels which should last me a few more years. If I have to resolder an unleaded joint I try to remove as much of the unleaded solder as possible before resoldering with "real" solder. Keith

19th Oct 2019, 9:05 pm	#25
Karen O Rest in Peace Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Bridgnorth, Shropshire, UK. Posts: 787	Re: Using Lead free solder. Hmm. I've used cheap Sn/Cu solder for all of my projects, and while the joints don't look good, I've never had one fail. Maybe I've changed my technique in some way to compensate for the poorer 'flow'. Sometimes this solder spits tiny little balls of solder that require careful removal but that might be because my iron isn't at the right temperature (my iron's cheap too )

19th Oct 2019, 10:09 pm	#26
greg_simons Octode Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Evesham, Worcestershire, UK. Posts: 1,422	Re: Using Lead free solder. Never really had any problems with lead free, did have to upgrade the metcal to higher temperature bits though, the solder I'm using has some silver in it and was horrifically expensive at the time, as others here point out bga chips are a nightmare and can just fall right off the board after a while. Greg. __________________ Picture, sound?, DOOR.