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Old 5th Apr 2010, 2:26 pm   #121
Brian R Pateman
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Default Re: Tv62

When I was first starting out I remember my boss telling me "EF80s never go" whenever I had convinced myself I needed to change one. He was invariably right.

I've always found them to be reliable if a little prone to microphony.
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Old 5th Apr 2010, 2:47 pm   #122
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Default Re: Tv62

Dave & Brian, that's interesting, I guess going by your experience the TV62's EF's will be ok then.

Finally ended up testing 15 other EF80's I have in stock which seem to give between 2.2 - 4.6 gm and test either good or indiff, they would indicate to be in better condition than the TV62's.

Chris
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Old 5th Apr 2010, 8:06 pm   #123
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Default Re: Tv62

Ef80's soldier on in reasonable signal areas for ever. They will still be servicable. They required changing in fringe areas where every microvolt of signal was required. The Aurora output is so strong it will bore a hole through any I.F. strip and produce a good result with completely duff valves [or so the valve testers say] I have never replaced EF80's in any television I.F. strip but I was situated at Wimbledon in a very high signal area.
J.
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Old 5th Apr 2010, 8:12 pm   #124
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Default Re: Tv62

Hi John,

I notice on the back of the set two aerial sockets "Band I" and "Band 3 & Common" could you explain.
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Old 6th Apr 2010, 7:23 am   #125
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Default Re: Tv62

Twin aerial sockets were common with early Band 3 sets. Some customers already had a Band 1 aerial fitted and if you lived in a fringe area for ITA the loses introduced by the use of a diplexer, [Band 1/3 combiner] may just have been enough to bring grain up on the ITA picture. You can connect the screw link to join both aerial sockets for use with a single cable in service areas and use the 'common' input socket. J.
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Old 6th Apr 2010, 7:09 pm   #126
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Default Re: Tv62

Hi,

With regards to caps in an obvious state of collapse.

Replaced C38 (neutralise residual H.T. mains hum) and C31 (Boost Cap) as these were in such a bad state and were mentioned in a couple of posts as better to replace.

C38 was a simple removal and replace

C31 had spewed lots of wax and was stuck to wires and the paxolin strip, mucky to remove. Fitting the new was tricky and felt like keyhole surgery but it's in where the orginal was.

That's it, that's all that will be done bar replacing the smoothing cap when it turns up, then I can get on and see what I do or don't get.

The Aurora is hitting the shores this Friday so hoping it will be with me sometime next week.

Chris
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 1:21 pm   #127
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Default Re: Tv62

Hi,

received the NOS multi electrolytic from John it has

300uF
300uF
100uF

John recommends in an attached note that the 100uF should be used as the resevoir the one which is connected to the PY82 cathodes. I'm having trouble ascertaining which this is. see post #111 the diagram I took and the bush schematic, i think its C35 (100uF).

The Red wires were coupled to the 200uF the Blue and Yellow to the two 100uF's. Is it the yellow that is the PY82 Cathode feed.

Soz for being so dumb.

Chris
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 2:32 pm   #128
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Default Re: Tv62

In a CLC (Capacitor-Inductor (choke)- Capacitor) mains filter or CRC (Capacitor-Resistor-Capacitor) mains filter the reservoir capacitor is the first one "seen" by the rectified AC. The second capacitor seen is the smoothing capacitor.

Frequently they're just called smoothers, but they have different functions. In a multi can capacitor it's sometimes recommended that a particular capacitor is used as the reservoir capacitor. This is because the capacitors in the can may have different ripple current ratings.
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 3:02 pm   #129
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Default Re: Tv62

After studying the Bush schematic further, I traced the circuit, working my way from pin's 3 of the PY82, hitting R47&R49 then R48 then a long wire which disappeared under the tag board surfacing through the chassis onto the bottom tap of R46 which then goes to the 100uF C35......... The yellow wire on my diagram Phew got there!

Chris

Last edited by oldticktock; 8th Apr 2010 at 3:27 pm.
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 7:06 pm   #130
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Default Re: Tv62

Ok, next step

I have mounted the new can using a large cap clamp, and soldered fly leads from the original connection to the new Multicap. All that remains now is to install the LOPT (which has been sitting in the airing cupboard for nearly a couple of weeks) back on the main deck, then install it along with the RF deck back in the case.

I would think after making multi checks that all is back as it should be, I will not attempt a power up until tomorrow.

Great news today as well my, Aurora is on it's way to me and I should have it tomorrow or Saturday at the latest

John, Thanks for the Multi can, lets hope I have some luck and it's not going to be a complete nightmare. Although having watched the other thread of Kevins (PYE VT2) it gives me great hope as it looked like that was a no go but look how it turned out, fantastic.

Chris
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 7:28 pm   #131
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Default Re: Tv62

Hello Chris,
Looks good. When you finally get it working I will sort you the correct size capacitor block. You can then keep that one for general testing as it has some useful values at around 300v. Your mounting looks fine to me and will be suitable to get the set under way. Cheers, John.
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 7:53 pm   #132
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Default Re: Tv62

Cheers John I really appreciate that, also thanks for the fly leads I tried cliping them in but to be honest they made me a bit nervous dangling out, and they were tricky to stop the ends touching oncec it was shoved back in the case, so I thought I would do a temporary solder in.

I sort of wish I had the TV22 as you can have that thing running with the crt attached and the whole chassis out like the PYE VT2 as well and the Fergy in the other thread.

If I have to keep removing the Main deck to change caps, especially the under tag board (urggg that reminds me hidden caps ) I have to keep disturbing the EHT lead etc pain in the wotsit.

Chris

Last edited by oldticktock; 8th Apr 2010 at 8:20 pm.
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 8:11 pm   #133
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Default Re: Tv62

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldticktock View Post
If I have to keep removing the Main deck to change caps, especially the under tag board (urggg that reminds me hidden caps )
You can get at most of the components without removing the chassis from the cabinet. As for under the tagboard you only want that out once.
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Old 8th Apr 2010, 9:11 pm   #134
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Default Re: Tv62

Re the tagboard, I've been giving that some thought.

Eventually when when I do have to get in under there are 4 caps,
C16
C20
C26
C8

There are 2 resistors R28 & R39

Option 1:
Unsolder 32 connections top and bottom, unscrew the tagboard and refit new underneath. Re-solder connections.

Option 2:
Unsolder 18 connections on the top row and gently swing down the tag board allowing access to replace cap, re-solder connections.

Option 3:
The one I'm seriously considering. I can see both ends of the 4 under side caps, I believe I can snip out these caps without unsoldering any wires and withdraw them, C8 is the only one likely to give a fight. Then I can mount the new caps on the topside, insulating the wire ends. This seems a better option and runs the least risk of disturbance. If the resistors are needing replacement then they are easy to access as well


Conclusion:

Option 1 has the greatest risk of error but is the most thorough
Option 2 reduced risk, but still a risk of introducing error
Option 3 minimal risk just need to ensure connection points underneath match topside tag points

I can only think the Bush designers did not mount the 4 caps topside due to their size, now with same value but smaller caps, these replacements can easily be accomodated topside.

Chris

Last edited by oldticktock; 8th Apr 2010 at 9:41 pm.
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Old 9th Apr 2010, 12:27 am   #135
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Default Re: Tv62

When i re caped my TV62 i did basicaly what you discribed in option three. I snipped each cap out one by one withdrew it with some forseps (invaluable for this type of work) i then slid a new cap into the old caps position. but i see no reason why you could'nt run them over the top, would perhaps look a little untidy though.

Jay
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Old 9th Apr 2010, 6:12 am   #136
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Default Re: Tv62

Being lazy, I would choose (3). You still have the option to change your mind and unsolder the tagboard. I wonder what TV repair men did in the old days if one of these caps needed replacing

If you do desolder it, make sure you check the resistors too and replace if necessary.
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Old 9th Apr 2010, 11:05 am   #137
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Default Re: Tv62

Well the Aurora arrived never having seen one in the flesh, it all looks very underwhelming. Did'nt realise it would not have a power supply anyone know where I can get on like today high street shop ?

Will have to figure out how to use it to sned a signal to my TV62 and how to output a testcard

Also I managed to obtain two new caps from Germany, 100+100 uF and a 220uf, John your kind offer of a replacement can be saved for someone else in need.

Well now the fun begins, hopefully I can report back a bit later with some info.

Chris
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Old 9th Apr 2010, 11:16 am   #138
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Default Re: Tv62

If you've ever read my review of the Aurora (on my website) you will see that I emphasised how tiny is it.

By default it will output test card and tone when nothing is connected to the inputs. I hope that Darryl leaves the auto standby facilty off by default (this has fooled both me and others) but the manual tells you how to disable it. I hope you have remembered to download the manual from the website. I think Darryl also leaves it set the Channel 1 by default. Again you can see how to change this in the manual.

It is supplied without PSU to save on carriage costs. No point in shipping standard stuff like that across the Atlantic. The power supply is utterly non-critical. A cheap and nasty "wall wart" from anywhere is fine. You can re-use an old one from somethng else - many of us have a box of the things lying around. Minimum 7V and I like to keep below 12V though I think Darryl says it's OK up to 14V. You can also use a bench power supply. You can't damage it with reverse polarity, it just won't work.

You will also need an adaptor from F to B&L co-ax to get the signal into your set. Again very widely and cheaply available.
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Old 9th Apr 2010, 11:30 am   #139
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Default Re: Tv62

Hi Jeffrey, must admit I have not read your Aurora review or downloaded the manual.

The only power supply I have is a 12v 700ma will that be ok?

Chris

Last edited by oldticktock; 9th Apr 2010 at 11:41 am.
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Old 9th Apr 2010, 11:54 am   #140
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Default Re: Tv62

The manual isn't shipped with the Aurora for the same reason as the PSU isn't.

First of all, please RTFM. Darryl has done a good job on the manual and it's well worth reading the first few pages. No need to read up the theory of operation or the detailed specifications. My review isn't essential reading and a few aspects have been overtaken by design changes.

Your 12V PSU will be fine. According to the manual 7-14V at 250mA is what's needed.
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