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2nd Jul 2012, 3:02 pm | #1 |
Tetrode
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Shaftesbury, Dorset, UK.
Posts: 97
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How do you make a new back panel?
Does anyone have any hints on how to make a new back panel? I have a couple of radios without panels.
What material is best? Making ones with round holes is do-able with patience, but oblong rounded holes? Any ideas? Are there punches available for this shape? |
2nd Jul 2012, 3:55 pm | #2 |
Octode
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Falmouth, Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 1,987
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Re: How do you make a new back panel?
There was a very good post regarding this last year, will see if I can find it.
. Stephen |
2nd Jul 2012, 4:35 pm | #3 |
Pentode
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Christchurch, Dorset, UK.
Posts: 237
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Re: How do you make a new back panel?
I bought a big sheet (about5' x 4') of "Millboard" from Woolies (http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk) to make several backs. It is black with a matt surface one side and a shiny grained surface the other side. (virtually identical to the backs on the round EKCO's). I think it cost about £14 a sheet + carriage. I cut the oblong rounded holes with the appropriate punch top & bottom & carefully cut the long sides with a stanley knife and metal straight edge. Very laborious but successful!. I hope this helps.
Regards, Colin Boggis |
2nd Jul 2012, 4:49 pm | #4 |
Heptode
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Sheerness, Kent, UK.
Posts: 936
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Re: How do you make a new back panel?
I think the post Stephen (freya2871) has mentioned is this one here:
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=65712 Dave |
2nd Jul 2012, 5:20 pm | #5 |
Octode
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Falmouth, Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 1,987
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Re: How do you make a new back panel?
Thats it, well done again.
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2nd Jul 2012, 8:33 pm | #6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 22,803
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Re: How do you make a new back panel?
Find a REALLY good tool emporium. Look for one that sells 'Trend' routers and they'll have the various 'how to' booklets that Trend published.
All you do is make one oversized sausage-shaped hole and use a router with a collar to mass produce perfect crisp holes, any shape without square inside corners, of course, so diamond patterns are right out without custom punches and dies. For those RS do an expensive lever-type press and many types of punch tools but you're into big money. David
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Can't afford the volcanic island yet, but the plans for my monorail and the goons' uniforms are done |
4th Jul 2012, 8:33 am | #7 |
Octode
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK.
Posts: 1,647
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Re: How do you make a new back panel?
Just a quick safety caveat to David's comments, especially if you haven't done much router work!
Hand held routers are very dangerous and must be treated with respect - professional woodworkers instinctively count fingers when they meet each other! Trend is the old ELU, one of the most repected router makers (now Dewalt/Trend/ELU/B&D). Buy the 1/4" collect model (the old T5) and don't kid yourself you'll be able to handle the 1/2" model - you won't. Always were safety goggles and ear-defenders... and count your fingers! Industrial grade cutters (Titman, Trend..) last and are no more expensive in the long run as 'bargain rubbish' 'trade/DIY' cutters from the Far East. They are now nearly all TCT (carbide-tipped) and designed for MDF, not solid wood (gone are the days of HSS... it's called 'progress'). Take care Barry |
4th Jul 2012, 9:06 am | #8 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 22,803
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Re: How do you make a new back panel?
Thanks, Barry, that's good advice.
I use a half-inch 'Freud' monster mounted in a Trend table for big work (Making kitchen cabinetry including the doors) and a DeWalt quarter inch job for handheld work. You can buy a selection of router bits from the Chinese for 20-odd quid in a plastic display case. They're carbide tipped but won't last long. The plastic case might be the best part, but one accidental poke with a bit of timber and it's trashed. The good point is that they're dirt cheap and allow you to find out which cutters you really need to use. When the cheapies wear out, you replace them with good quality ones. For cutting things like compressed card, HSS, High Speed Steel leaves a better finish than carbide tipped tools. The carbide is harder and lasts longer, but a new HSS cutter is sharper. Considering the adhesives in the stuff you're likely to be cutting, dust masks are essential, as are good goggles for the flying bits. David Like spray painting, where all the time goes in preparing the surface before you start, successful routing hinges on making a really good guide template before the tool is ever turned on.
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Can't afford the volcanic island yet, but the plans for my monorail and the goons' uniforms are done |