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Vintage Radio (domestic) Domestic vintage radio (wireless) receivers only.

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Old 11th Aug 2014, 11:28 am   #101
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Default Re: Ambassador 545

Chocolate block is horrible stuff and best avoided. Some of the stuff supplied by DIY outlets comes with the threads already stripped. When used with stranded wire it's all too easy to cut through strands by over tightening. Leave the screw too loose and it may vibrate free releasing the wire . Terminating wires directly under screws has never seemed like a good idea to me. The connectors where some kind of metal barrier is interposed between the wire and the screw are much better.

In a vintage radio it's much better to solder the mains lead.
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Old 11th Aug 2014, 11:48 am   #102
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Originally Posted by G6Tanuki View Post
If you want to neaten up stranded wire before fitting to a screw-terminal, crimp on a "bootlace ferrule"
Probably a brand or makers name, but in my Thorn days they were known as mischke terminals. Not sure about the spelling there, but I think during my time in 'stock control' and 'buying', that was how I saw the word typed out.
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Old 11th Aug 2014, 5:40 pm   #103
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Thanks everyone, quite a bit for me to digest here, so I will take my time with all your comments.
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Old 12th Aug 2014, 12:12 pm   #104
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Just reading this websites advice on cabinet care, and I noticed it states do not use Pledge or Mr Sheen to polish the wood.

May I ask why?
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Old 12th Aug 2014, 1:03 pm   #105
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Being silicone based, they are more for use on plastics and such finishes on modern items. Older wireless sets are perhaps better polished and cleaned using a more 'wood friendly', natural product.
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Old 12th Aug 2014, 2:20 pm   #106
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Thank you, Steve.
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Old 24th Aug 2014, 9:02 am   #107
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Another really silly question, but I need to ask because I am struggling!

Do valves ALWAYS glow if operating correctly?
I have one that isn't and I daren't leave the set on for more than a few seconds for fear of blowing something.

PS - When you guys talk about "heaters" on this forum, are you referring to a part of a valve that glows?
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Old 24th Aug 2014, 9:54 am   #108
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May I ask why?
Use spit (ugghh!). A wonderful and extremely gentle cleaner. So good that museum conservators have been known to use it.
Liberon burnishing cream is a finish reviver. It contains a very fine abrasive (some sort of very fine Rottenstone/Tripoli powder) suspended in a solvent. I've never found it to be a problem with Shellac. Don't use it more than once, it's still an abrasive (however gentle) and eventually you will end up with a finish that looks like glass (ugghh! again).
A little White Spirit on a cloth is pretty effective at removing dirt and grime. You can use a simple furniture wax after.
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Old 24th Aug 2014, 9:58 am   #109
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"Spit"?? Really!?
Well, I suppose if it's good enough for the army's boots!
Spit and polish

Will buy the Liberon cream, I think I have some of their other products.
Thanks!
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Old 24th Aug 2014, 10:13 am   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sooperrio View Post
Another really silly question, but I need to ask because I am struggling!

Do valves ALWAYS glow if operating correctly?
I have one that isn't and I daren't leave the set on for more than a few seconds for fear of blowing something.

PS - When you guys talk about "heaters" on this forum, are you referring to a part of a valve that glows?
Yes the heater is the part of the valve which glows. Its purpose is to heat the cathode electrode so that it emits electrons.

All valves glow to some extent, but some glow so dimly that it may only be possible to see the glow in the dark and then only if you're looking at the right angle.

You can test a valve's heater by measuring the resistance between the heater pins. An infinite (open circuit) reading indicates a faulty (blown) heater. Do this test with the valve removed from the circuit or you'll get a false reading.

The heater pins for each valve are clearly shown on the ERT Service Sheet.
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Old 24th Aug 2014, 10:15 am   #111
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Thank you, Graham!
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Old 25th Aug 2014, 9:29 am   #112
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Graham,

The valve was open circuit, so thanks for your help, am now on the hunt for a replacement.

Much appreciated.
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Old 25th Aug 2014, 10:04 am   #113
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What valve is it? Not sure if you've already done it, but there's a 'wanted' page on this forum.
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Old 25th Aug 2014, 11:24 am   #114
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Hi Steve

It's a Pen45, haven't seen the 'wanted' page, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!
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Old 25th Aug 2014, 8:08 pm   #115
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Give it a go on the wanted page, it's not an uncommon valve, I may have one myself somewhere, but not saying that I can lay my hands on one easily as I have boxes of old valves to wade through. Anyway, see how you go on with a wanted ad.
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Old 26th Aug 2014, 5:32 am   #116
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Thanks, Steve, I will try that.
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Old 16th Sep 2014, 12:37 pm   #117
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Hello Everyone

Me again, asking for more help.
Please could somebody take a very quick look at the attached (very rough) drawing and confirm I have got the wiring correct for a lamp limiter?

Thanks in advance!

Gray
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Old 16th Sep 2014, 2:12 pm   #118
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Yes, that will work fine. Make sure the switch is open when you first connect it: closing the switch will short out the lamp and apply the full force of the mains to the appliance plugged into the socket. You probably will want to label the switch positions, to avoid potential disaster.
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Old 16th Sep 2014, 4:38 pm   #119
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Thank you, AJS, for your prompt reply!
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Old 29th Sep 2014, 12:15 pm   #120
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May I describe the results from my lamp limiter test, please?
I apply power from the mains, and the bulb filament glows orange, then fades, then after about ten - twenty seconds, the bulb filament glows again.
The light behind my radio tuning dial also lights.

Can I ask if this is good?!
More importantly, what is happening?

If anyone could explain really simply where the current is going, and what it is doing, I would appreciate it!

Thank you!
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