Fidelity HF12 - worth doing anything?

[Peter Rabbit]

I'm not electrical equipment savvy but like 60's stuff.

I bought a Fidelity HF12 record player as I liked the case and thought it would look OK as display item. Didn't expect it to work (very cheap) and doesn't. Plugged it in, not a peep from either motor on off switch or stylus. Took the turntable off and motor looks quite nice so thought I would have a look at internal mains connection as looks like a newish plug (changed fuse just in case!).

So, to nub of post, How and what do I remove to check this? There are 4 screws around the rim of the deck which I removed but deck is so tight in case I don't want to damage anything so put it all back together and thought best to contact a forum that covers this stuff.

Any advice on how to access internal mains connection ?

[Station X]

Originally Posted by Peter Rabbit

I'm not electrical equipment savvy but like 60's stuff.

For the benefit of any member offering advice, the circuit can be found in post #24 of this thread:-

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...d.php?t=152419

[tracypaper]

Hi.
Welcome to the forum.
To get to the amp etc, re-remove the four screws, the motorboard (the bit with the four screws in) will be tight as the casing is made from cardboard and over the years any moisture may/will have caused the body and the motor board to stick together, a little gentle persuasion with a flat head screwdriver around the cable entry point usually does the trick, it does with me!
Gaz.

[Edward Huggins]

Bear in mind this simple circuit has a LIVE CHASSIS so ensure the main neutral is connected to the chassis. Use a 2 or 3A fuse in the 13A plug. The mains switch on the volume control may be broken. If you find that the cartridge has failed, bear in mind that a replacement will cost £35-00. This is extremely basic record player with just a 4" speaker so don't expect too much from it. It will sound adequate on 78s and 45s.

[Techman]

Gaz is right, it'll just be stuck with age - a good sign, as it may well indicate that it hasn't been fiddled with in the recent past by someone who doesn't know what they're doing.

I would strongly advise you (if you haven't already done so) to thoroughly read and digest what's been written in the thread linked to in post #2 regarding this model of player.

[Peter Rabbit]

Thanks all for comments. Will give this a go at weekend and take it from there!

[Peter Rabbit]

Managed to remove motorboard following advice above. Couple of things noticed - the mains supply is 2 core flat cable and both ends are soldered to the back of the one-off switch, neither looks to be to the chassis. Also a grey tube with red at one end is soldered to a green wire and looks as if they may have been soldered to the back of the switch as well as there is a blob if solder below the joint but they aren't connected ?
I've taken a photo if anyone has time to have a look? Presumably that would need to be sent to an e-mail address rather than posted here?
I've also taken note of comments on quality if this machine and definitely won't be spending much on it but if there's a chance a bit of soldering might work I'll give it a go.

[AC/HL]

It's better if pictures are uploaded to the Forum: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=77650

[Station X]

It's possible that the mains switch, which I assume is ganged with the volume control, is stuck in the OFF position. This can happen even though the switch appears to click when moved from the OFF to the ON position. a simple continuity check with your meter will soon prove things one way or the other.

[Herald1360]

If both sides of the mains cable go to the ON/OFF switch, they are both being switched. There will be two further switch connections, one of which will go to the amplifier chassis at some point and the other to the power supply(ies).

[ms660]

Originally Posted by Peter Rabbit

Managed to remove motorboard following advice above. Couple of things noticed - the mains supply is 2 core flat cable and both ends are soldered to the back of the one-off switch, neither looks to be to the chassis. Also a grey tube with red at one end is soldered to a green wire and looks as if they may have been soldered to the back of the switch as well as there is a blob if solder below the joint but they aren't connected ?
I've taken a photo if anyone has time to have a look? Presumably that would need to be sent to an e-mail address rather than posted here?
I've also taken note of comments on quality if this machine and definitely won't be spending much on it but if there's a chance a bit of soldering might work I'll give it a go.

The grey tube connected to one of the switched mains contacts will be the surge limiter for the rectifier valve, grey-red-? sounds like an 82 Ohm job, the green wire that's connected to that same switched mains contact is probably one of the supply wires to the motor.

The other switched mains contact should have a wire that connects it to the amplifier chassis and another wire that is the other connection to the motor, the motor itself will have three wires, the other wire is a voltage tap on the motor which supplies power to the valves heaters.

Lawrence.

[crackle]

Just to refresh your memories here is a photo of the one I repaired a little while ago.

This is before any work


and this is after repairs.


Mike

[Peter Rabbit]

Thanks for comments so far. Have re-soldered the "rectifier"? to mains switch and motor now running when switched on.

Still no amplified sound when playing record, but volume control dies increase muted sound from disc so assuming need to look at amplifier next. Sorry, don't even know what this looks like but I'll look for other potential beans in contacts.

[Station X]

Are you saying that some sound can be heard from the loudspeaker, but it's at a low level and can be varied with the volume control?

There are pictures of the amplifier in post #12.

[Peter Rabbit]

Originally Posted by Station X

Are you saying that some sound can be heard from the loudspeaker, but it's at a low level and can be varied with the volume control?

There are pictures of the amplifier in post #12.

Yes, some sound but very low level and can be increased with volume control.
(Last post said "beans" when should have said "breaks".!
I'll have a look at post #12, thanks.

[Station X]

Try the "buzz" test. Lift up the arm and touch the conductive part of the wires going to the amplifier with a screwdriver blade. a loud buzz indicates that the amplifier is OK and the cartridge is at fault.

[Techman]

I'm guessing that you didn't take my advice regarding thoroughly reading that other thread - yes/no? Much of what you need to know is likely to be within that thread including all the approximate voltage readings to be expected around the amplifier circuit.

As Graham says in the above post, the 'buzz' test with volume control on FULL will tell you the state of the amplifier, but be very careful, as if you've got the mains polarity wrong in the plug you risk electrocuting yourself due to NO isolation in the pickup wiring. A good insulated screwdriver should be used and DON'T touch the metal blade while doing it - and DON'T touch the metal chassis, or any other parts of the innards while it's powered up!

A final point also mentioned in that other thread linked to is that if the original cartridge is still fitted it will be spoiling all your stereo records every time you play them.

It's time you posted some pictures so that members can see what's what.

[Techman]

I'll make this an additional post - You say you're not electrically savvy.

This model has a non colour coded twisted lamp flex as original fit mains lead, so it's 50/50 which way it's connected in the mains plug.

It's a 'live chassis' design with NO pickup isolation.

Enough said!

[Peter Rabbit]

I did read thread referred to but as I don't have a voltage meter wasn't able to test anything. Checked cost and frankly not worth investing as I don't intend doing this regularly, if at all.
Taken photo and will try to include but this is on phone which doesn't seem to have low enough resolution to suit forum requirements.

I note the mains cable is not twisted flex but 2 core flat so must have been changed at some time.

Probably safest to forget it and just use as display item!

[Edward Huggins]

It's unlikely that the mains lead will have been changed. This type of player only needs a 2 core cable.