Hi From Cathy Lissen/Eveready Kenilworth??

[cathy_vintage]

Wow !!!!!!!! that museum is something else ..we will have to include that on Ash's never-ending countrywide tours, searching for 60/70's Honda parts, if we can manage to get an appointment.

On a different topic.. Ash is (supposed ) to be clearing our loft of long forgotten ..probably not working, old gear he has 'hoarded' (don't ask !!) . He says there is a massive Gould storage scope, HP counter, analogue multimeter etc. up there. After all the help you guys are giving us since joining, it will be up for grabs for free.. what's the best section to offer it please? Cathy

[ukcol]

There is a specific section for this >>

"Sets, Parts and Service Information Offered (private sellers only, exact price required, no swaps)"

that you will see listed on the home page. Be sure to state "free of charge" or FOC if that is your wish.

[AC/HL]

Further to this, if you do contemplate offering equipment please bear in mind the practicalities of transport. Good protection for smaller items is not too difficult, but a larger (and fragile) thing like an oscilloscope is a significant challenge. It's sometimes possible to arrange transport by volunteer fellow enthusiasts who appreciate the difficulties.

[cathy_vintage]

Thanks ...from Ash .. I think it would be buyer collect on the 'scope (or meet me if I happen to be travelling your way) and it is probably only any good for spares anyway but I hate throwing things away ! I will dig out whatever I have and put it on here but any of it will definitely be FOC other than postage cost
.

[60 oldjohn]

I notice in #57 you enquire about museums, most of my sets are on display, you and other forum members are welcome to visit, there's no charge. Please feel free to PM me. Not bad going 65 replies in 69 hours!

Cheers, John.

[richrussell]

I'd be happy to collect the scope if nobody else wants it. I'm only in Selby, so not that far My battered old 10MHz Gould non-storage one could do with upgrading to something a little better.

But better to have that discussion in the sale thread and keep this one on helping you get the radio working.

[cathy_vintage]

Originally Posted by 60 oldjohn

I notice in #57 you enquire about museums, most of my sets are on display, you and other forum members are welcome to visit, there's no charge. Please feel free to PM me. Not bad going 65 replies in 69 hours!

From Ash: We will probably take you up on that John if that's OK. Yes quite a flurry of posts but will tail off a bit until I get the capacitors and have fitted them and replaced any dangerous wiring. I am going to strip the transformer and smoothing cap block out over the next few days. I am not even going to chance it with the cap..just install the new 'ATOM' ones inside the old case. I am going to judiciously remove the worst of chassis corrosion but not go over the top. Would the chassis have been plated originally with cadmium or zinc or some other protective layer ? That RS output transformer was originally intended to build a valve 'Theremin' with my old mate Les.

BTW.... it's a big hurrah being able to get my lead based solder out again.. anything I do for my business has to be the crabby lead-free compliant- horrid stuff !

[60 oldjohn]

Expect the worst re Cadmium, nice weather for doing it safely. Let me know when you would like to visit us. For anyone else interested we are at HU120**

Regards, John.

[cathy_vintage]

From Ash ... Tonights 'homework' / progress.

Stripped out the Mains Tx and block capacitor. Removed the grotty waxy mess from the case. I will rebuild the cap with the modern ones inside an ABS box which I will mount inside the original waxy box.

Marked the mains Tx windings with different coloured nail varnish I 'borrowed' from my youngest daughter's bedroom while she is in London (actually Cathy pinched it so she's to blame tee hee ).

Out of the chassis infinite resistance between all windings and the laminated mag-frame so encouraging.

Connected to isolation Tx / Variac and gradually wound up the volts until it reached the Trader Sheet reference test voltage of 234 VAC. Values look pretty good Around 4% difference between the two HT windings . Is this acceptable? Doesn't seem too bad to me. All values measured with my Fluke 75 DMM and given on the annotated pic attached. Heater winding measured voltages 2.32-0-2.32 VAC and 4.64 VAC. (all off-load)

Left the mains connected @234VAC for a soak test until bedtime and I will measure the temperature it attains, off load.

[paulsherwin]

The voltage numbers look fine.

[cathy_vintage]

I left the transformer powered for 4 hours last night and it was pretty cool after that period ( forgot to fetch home my Fluke 51 thermocouple temp. meter) but I guess it's OK to try out now after a clean up of the terminals.

Another question: I don't know how the tuning operated on this set. Only 1 of the presets 'latches in' ( not the top one which is on/off originally I believe) and releases when you press another, so this is going to need mechanical/contact cleaning attention in the long run but to begin with I just want to manually tune the set to test everything. Is one of the settings of the rotary switch for preset operation only and the others 'waveband' positions?

[cathy_vintage]

Morning !! Cathy here: I cleaned up the dial scale glass very carefully as everyone on here kindly suggested and no damage to the markings/text. The woven speaker 'cloth' looks very dirty dusty and grotty though and I am not really happy to leave it like that as it's going to let the rest of the cabinet down. Any further tips on cleaning it and possibly refinishing it in an off white colour? I suppose the problem with be not blocking the air gaps in the 'mesh' with anything used to re-colour it. It will remove quite easily to clean and then refit/replace.

[cathy_vintage]

Originally Posted by cathy_vintage

Another question: I don't know how the tuning operated on this set. Only 1 of the presets 'latches in' ( not the top one which is on/off originally I believe) and releases when you press another, so this is going to need mechanical/contact cleaning attention in the long run but to begin with I just want to manually tune the set to test everything. Is one of the settings of the rotary switch for preset operation only and the others 'waveband' positions?

Looking at the Trader Sheet is position no.1 (fully CCW) for the preset tuning?

[David G4EBT]

Originally Posted by cathy_vintage

Another question: I don't know how the tuning operated on this set. Only 1 of the presets 'latches in' ( not the top one which is on/off originally I believe) and releases when you press another, so this is going to need mechanical/contact cleaning attention in the long run but to begin with I just want to manually tune the set to test everything. Is one of the settings of the rotary switch for preset operation only and the others 'waveband' positions?

As I understand it, if the 'switchery' is operating correctly, pressing any of the seven station buttons should both switch the set on, as well as tuning the pre-selected station for that button, (as tuned with the associated trimmer for that switch position). The eight button switches the set off.

Hope that helps a bit.

[ms660]

The switchery can be a bit of a brain teaser, so far as I can make out switching to auto enables the 7 preset tuning buttons, two of those presets are for presetting LW stations and the remaining five are for presetting MW stations, there's no preset facilities for SW.

Switching the rotary selector to Auto enables preset station selection using the push buttons.

To tune manually select the band that's required to be tuned (LW, MW or SW)

In the Auto position (presets):

The antenna tuning coil for MW is L19 and for LW it's L20.

The oscillator tuning coil for MW is L22 and for LW it's L21.

The above is ref the Lissen 8453 Trader sheet.

The switchery might look complicated but if you break it down it's quite straight forward.

On the rotary selector switch diagram "C" = contacts closed.

Hope this helps.

Lawrence.

[60 oldjohn]

The cloth should be cleaned with great care, If possible removed from the set maybe attached to the baffle board and lay it in a bowl of warm water and washing up liquid. Moving the board a little to agitate. If the cloth comes out of the set easy again wash gently then lay out flat in kitchen towel to dry. When dry use an Impact adhesive to fix into set. If after the washing up liquid there are still stains try washing powder. If it ends in tears modern cloths are available but best if it all original.

John.

[Boater Sam]

I use woven plastic table placemats for speaker fabric, available in all sorts of weaves and shades. Very durable and not expensive. I usually fit them using hot melt glue just at the edge behind the reveal on the baffle board, fitting one edge, stretched, first and working round stretching as I go.

[richrussell]

If the cloth looks like it's still sturdy enough (ie not brittle and likely to tear), then I just soak it in warm water with a bit of non-bio washing liquid for a couple of hours, then gently brush it with a nail brush and rinse. That usually lifts the dust and grease that accumulates without making the cloth look out of place with the patina of the rest of the set. Then refit it (glue if necessary).

[paulsherwin]

Just wash the fabric as you would any delicate fabric. If it is glued to the baffle board the glue will be water based and will dissolve in warm water / detergent.

Some old stains are very difficult to shift though, and some sort of replacement may be necessary.

I use spray PVA to reattach the fabric to the baffle, but you can use whatever technique you're comfortable with.

[cathy_vintage]

Ash here .. capacitors won't be here unit Tuesday as I need to order other parts for my job along with them. I already have the silicone coated, woven glass wire / sleeving so no worries there to rewire the dodgy HT wires.

Spent yesterday evening, later on after testing the mains Tx, reading the interesting tale on this site of 'whiskers on AFxxx's'. You will probably guess why. Moderator Paul will definitely know as I downloaded a service sheet off here ! Guess I have caught the 'bug' I knew I should have walked away from that car boot guy who persuaded Cathy to buy the Eveready 30's set.

Also read with interest on here the tales of Philips G6 EHT stages and X-rays --scary.. I won't be searching for one those in a rush

Back to the Eveready saga. Once we get it working ( getting all confident now) should we run it, in everyday use from an isolation transformer just in case the old mains Tx breaks down or would a 30mA RCD plug suffice? It must be a common question/concern on here.