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Vintage Tape (Audio), Cassette, Wire and Magnetic Disc Recorders and Players Open-reel tape recorders, cassette recorders, 8-track players etc.

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Old 14th May 2021, 7:08 am   #21
DMcMahon
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Default Re: Help getting Motor to Run on TK20

I have several Grundig TKs with damaged (some very badly) cabinet mesh covering, particularly the front section around the speaker.

Quite a while back I did search on the internet and found various materials that might be suitable, the difficulty is removing the old covering and fitting replacement.

Might be worth a post here, somebody must have done repairs/replacement.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...splay.php?f=21


David
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Old 14th May 2021, 7:57 am   #22
DMcMahon
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Default Re: Help getting Motor to Run on TK20

A few comments about case damage in my linked Thread.

https://www.google.com/url?client=in...jEuBBU1hysIc1E
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Old 14th May 2021, 8:40 am   #23
DMcMahon
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Default Re: Help getting Motor to Run on TK20

Quote:
Originally Posted by DMcMahon View Post
Might be worth a post here, somebody must have done repairs/replacement.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...splay.php?f=21


David
Started a Thread there.
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Old 14th May 2021, 9:07 am   #24
jascha
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Default Re: Help getting Motor to Run on TK20

Great idea David. Hopefully someone will come up with some ideas as I’m sure there are so many of these machines with broken fronts. ��
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Old 14th May 2021, 8:55 pm   #25
DMcMahon
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Default Re: Help getting Motor to Run on TK20

Out of interest checked out how easy it is is to remove the Auto Stop relay, also it could make it easier for live testing to investigate why mine is not energising.

Easy to partially remove it so that easier to access/view the contacts.

Remove all the parts of the Take Up reel table, carefully noting positions, thickness and quantity of any metal, SRBP & Simrit washers. The black Simrit washers can be quite fragile and sometimes break when disturbed.

With the reel table out of the way you can then easily access the 2 metal lugs that secure the relay to the top plate of the chassis, just have to twist the lugs so that will align with the small rectangular holes they go through.

Then the relay can be lifted up somewhat, enough to see/access the contacts better. To completely remove would mean disconnecting al the wires to it, which would be an extra pain.

To make it slightly easier I also removed the 2 securing screws that hold down the output assembly (output transformer & EL 95 etc) so that could be eased back a little. While doing this, it re-enforced how difficult it would be to access/measure the control grid voltage at the EL 95 so I wonder now if I did previously check out the grid coupling capacitor.

While lifting the relay up I accidently found that it is quite easy to pull the moving contact plate further up so that its contacts sit above the fixed contacts, this makes it easier to see and clean those contacts.

David
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Last edited by DMcMahon; 14th May 2021 at 9:02 pm.
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