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Old 27th May 2022, 11:00 am   #1
vinrads
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Default How to I.D some double triodes

I have a load of ECC?? all with print missing is there an easy way of I.D ing these. Mick.
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Old 27th May 2022, 11:32 am   #2
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

Unfortunately not easily.
For example a Mullard ECC82 and ECC83 look the some, and you cannot see the grid structure. The heater currents are all the same so no help either. You may be lucky and find an etch code near the base that will help.
Then other manufactures used different anode structures, but the same problem, they often shared the same look between types.

Only sure way needs a valve tester or method of measuring anode current at a specific -ve voltage on the grid.
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Old 27th May 2022, 11:39 am   #3
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

Some don't have tapped heaters if that's any help in narrowing things down.

Lawrence.
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Old 27th May 2022, 11:53 am   #4
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

Good point, I assumed from the question we were just looking for ECC81, 82 and 83s. A quick resistance check from either pin 4 or 5 to pin 9 would sort them out.

A few pictures would soon confirm.
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Old 27th May 2022, 6:14 pm   #5
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

Just to confirm they are all ECC81/2/3 Mick.
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Old 28th May 2022, 11:13 am   #6
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

The anodes of the ECC81 should be noticeably shorter than those of the ECC82 & ECC83.

Lawrence.
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Old 28th May 2022, 3:42 pm   #7
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

You could lash up a test rig to separate the 82s and 83s. The slope is completely different.
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Old 28th May 2022, 5:01 pm   #8
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

Thanks Paul I was thinking along the same lines, Mick.
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Old 29th May 2022, 12:26 am   #9
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Default Re: How to I.D some double triodes

All of the print missing, but is it? You're probably aware but in case you're not.. In the Philips universe, valves got stamped with a small two line factory code either near the bottom on the side or on the bottom itself (old valves), sometimes mistakenly referred to as etch codes. This is often done in somewhat durable ink and a bite more sturdy than the normal chalc print of brand and type number since it had to survive said chalc printing process and would also be used to determine warranty and quality issues.
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