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Success Stories If you have successfully repaired or restored a piece of equipment, why not write up what you did and post details here. Particularly if it was interesting, unusual or challenging. PLEASE DO NOT POST REQUESTS FOR HELP HERE!

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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 6:22 pm   #1
frglee21
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Default A Bush DAC10

Well, that was easy! - phew! not for a novice it wasn't

In my Success Story about the restoration of my first radio set, a DAC90A, I said it hadn't fired me to tackle any more radios so why have I just done radio set number four - who said "addictive"?

I got this DAC10 for £15 probably because, as you can see in the photograph, the tuning scale was in very poor condition. On delivery, a closer inspection showed that the tuning scale escutcheon had a piece missing from one of the back corners, there was a split on one side and there were lots of hair-line stress cracks around the screw holes.

The case itself was in very good condition apart from a small screwdriver chip out of the edge of one of the screw holes. Even the original Bush logo was in place albeit somewhat battered and devoid of any paint. An artistic ant would have been handy to paint this; instead I made do with a cocktail stick. It's turned out as more of a triangle than a Christmas Tree but without my glasses on it looks OK!

I repaired the damaged corner of the escutcheon plate with Milliput Superfine, superglued the split, then spray painted the whole plate with three coats of hi-build primer followed by three coats of "Antique White". I chose Antique White simply because it was being sold at 50% of the normal price. As it happens, it matches the control knobs quite well.

To fix the damaged tuning scale I downloaded the scan that's available off the Internet, as other forum members have done.

I didn't have any water slide transfer paper but I did have some clear A4 overhead projector film and access to a colour photocopier ( I might not have now when they find out how many copies I made trying to get it right! ) so I scraped the remaining paint off the tuning scale glass and stuck the photocopied tuning scale *on top* of the glass, my reasoning being that the glass will help protect the film from the heat generated by the radio - time will tell.

Removing the chassis from the case revealed another problem; there was an empty space where there should have been a UF41 valve. Luckily, I managed to obtain a NOS UF41 in it's original box and cellophane wrapper.

I made my first gaffe at an early stage in the proceedings ( the second gaffe could have been much more serious ). I removed the valves for safe-keeping but should have first adopted the motto 'look twice, pull once' I didn't and failed to notice the clips securing the valves to the valve holders.

The first clip had already been bent back so the valve came out easily; the second valve didn't exist but the third - a UBC41 - was firmly held in place. I gave it a wiggle and a pull and was left holding the glass envelope while the internals remained in the valve holder. Again, I managed to obtain a replacement, used - but serviceable - this time. For anyone like me who is not familiar with these clips I've included a photograph below. I was so relieved that I didn't start from the other end - it could so easily have been the UL41 that went with a pop!

After reading of far more experienced forum members who shied away from removing the tuner unit to get at the wax capacitors I decided it wasn't for me either so I did it the hard way? Yes, it was difficult but I surprised myself by even managing to wrap the new capacitor leads around the solder tags rather than solder them to the existing leads.

Quite a bit of the wiring insulation around the dropper had perished and was crumbling so I replaced this with silicone wire rescued from a defunct, but not-that-old, instant water heater.

I took the switched volume control off the chassis for cleaning but had difficulty in removing the left over wiring from the solder tags where I'd snipped off the old wires. I didn't have three hands and clamping a small vice to the edge of the dining table wouldn't have gone down too well! I got round the problem by refitting the volume control to the chassis backwards so that the solder tags were on the outside. The chassis was heavy enough for it not to slide around leaving both hands free to desolder and unpick the remaining strands of wire.

After some resistance and continuity checks it was time for the big switch on via the lamp limiter and RCD. I was gratified to see the scale lamp bulbs and heaters begin to glow without any fireworks. Five minutes on the lamp limiter and I gave it full mains. Radio Four came in nice and clear so the hard-to-get speaker was also working fine - proper chuffed as they say 'round these parts!

As I've said before, for anyone reading this who still hasn't taken the plunge and had a go at restoring a radio set. I'm still very much a beginner, a lot of what is written on this forum goes right over my head. I don't have a workshop or even a work bench; the cleaning and polishing was done in the kitchen and the electrical work was done on a piece of cardboard on the dining table with basic hand tools, a cheap multi-meter and a soldering iron.

Read all the advice you can find on this excellent forum about your particular radio and get hold of the appropriate Trader Sheet and give it a go! It's a nice feeling knowing that "I did it myself!"

Oh yes! my second gaffe!

Throughout this forum there are warnings about working with potentially lethal voltages and I've thought "Yeah! Yeah! I'm not stoopid" and I wasn't stupid until I was adjusting the push button presets with the chassis out of the cabinet. I let my guard down and touched a live connection with the back of my left hand. Fortunately, it was just a rude awakening but I know it could have been much worse - enough said I think!

Best wishes to all Lee.
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 6:24 pm   #2
frglee21
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

.... and the finished radio
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 6:57 pm   #3
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

That's really come up well Lee especially for a first set.
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 7:06 pm   #4
frglee21
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Thank You Dave.

It's actually my fourth radio over 18 months, the others being a DAC90A, Cossor Melody Maker 501 and a K-B FB10 but they didn't require nearly as much work as the DAC10.

You might remember me saying that your voices had put me off buying a DAC10 because of the difficulty in replacing the wax capacitors but I got one in the end

Best Wishes, Lee.
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 7:42 pm   #5
ThePillenwerfer
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

A great job.

I've never come across those particular valve clips so thanks for the warning.

- Joe
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 7:55 pm   #6
Robert Darwent
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Congratulations Lee on a first-class restoration and an excellent result.

I must say your attention to detail really shows, the reproduction dial and repaired white escutcheon are particularly note-worthy. If I had looked at the finished image first without reading your text, I would not have spotted them for anything but original.

Keep up the good work!

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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 8:21 pm   #7
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Well done Lee, looks like you put some elbow into the case.

I agree with you, it is a great feeling to repair something yourself guided by the previous posts and help on this and other fora.

Andrew
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 8:25 pm   #8
Mark the Mender
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Well done Lee, these are nice sets, I have one in the living room.

cheers Mark
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 8:48 pm   #9
IJK2008
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Great job Lee! I like the labels and the work on the escutcheon and dial glass is first class.

Ian
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 9:24 pm   #10
Nickthedentist
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Very nice work indeed!

This proves that with common sense, perseverance, time and a bit of advice from this excellent forum, it's possible to restore a good proportion of old valve radios even if you've not had much experience, assuming you're good with your hands. To paraphrase a well known motto of the medical profession, rare faults are rare.

ISTR that these use the same circuit as my favourite small set, the DAC90A.

You won't make the same mistake with those clips again. Beware also the sort with the wire ring, which should be slid aside before attempting to remove the valve. And also be warned that even with the clips deactivated, it's still all too easy to knock the locating pip off valves like those when removing them from their holders.

Nick.
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 10:52 pm   #11
Lloyd 1985
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Hi
fantastic work, the dial looks great, and I can't spot your repair to the escutcheon!
The case has come up brilliantly too, I don't think I've seen one so shiney!
I've had problems with those valve holders too, awful things.
well done!

lloyd.
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Old 22nd Feb 2012, 11:32 pm   #12
mark pirate
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

I have also learnt the hard way with those valveholder clips on the DAC90A. You have done a good job of repairing the top panel

I personally prefer the look of the DAC10 over the DAC90A but it is not so easy to replace the caps, especially as you need to remove the pushbutton assembly for access.

Glad your 'speaker is OK, these can be a problem in these sets. I have been lucky with my two as I had a damaged set as a donor.

Mark
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Old 23rd Feb 2012, 12:08 am   #13
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

How did you get the case so shiny?

Did you create new green labels for the tuner and a new 'live chassis' label?
If so what font did you use? I would like to create some for my DAC10.
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Old 23rd Feb 2012, 7:23 pm   #14
frglee21
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Default Re: A Bush DAC10

Thank You very much for all your kind comments - it's a good job there's not an emoticon for a swollen head!

I'd read about the wire split rings before I started on my DAC90A so they came off right away but I hadn't seen this type of clip before. As you say Nick, I won't make the same mistake twice!

I can only think that Bush Bakelite radios have a good quality finish to start with because I got a similar shine on the DAC90A. I used Brasso to get the initial shine and smoothness followed by two coats of semi-liquid beeswax furniture polish, letting each coat dry before I polished it. Other than that it's as Andrew says - plenty of elbow grease!

I made the lables with PaintShop Pro then resized them in Microsoft Word. It's always difficult finding the correct fonts for these things. In this case I used Gill Sans MT for the tuner lables and good old Arial for the "Caution" lables. The wording did need a bit of stretching or squashing up to get the same proportions as the original.

I've uploaded the lables as a Microsoft Word document to the "Useful Scales and Lable Scans" sticky in the Cabinet and Chassis Restoration and Refinishing forum.

Thank You All again and best wishes, Lee.

Last edited by frglee21; 23rd Feb 2012 at 7:40 pm. Reason: Spelling correction
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