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Vintage Television and Video Vintage television and video equipment, programmes, VCRs etc. |
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16th Nov 2016, 11:27 pm | #1 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Margate, Kent, UK.
Posts: 20
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Bush TV 22 help
Hello people.
I have recently acquired a Bush TV22 to add to my collection. I would like too get it working if possible. I know I won't be able to watch things on it unless I buy a convertor but would like to see the screen light up and have something. My question is, although it looks complete I know from past experience that it's not always the case. What is this safest way to test it? By that what I mean is, I don't want to invest loads of time and money into it to find out that the tube is gone or something hard to source like the LOPT. I don't have a CRT tester just too be clear. I was thinking about changing all the wax caps and maybe the electrolytics before anything but would like a bit of guidance. Unlike the TV12 I also have (next project) The wiring etc. in the 22 seems too be in reasonable condition so that can wait until it's working (if it does). Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Daniel |
17th Nov 2016, 12:01 am | #2 |
Nonode
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 2,571
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
The wax caps will almost certainly need replacing, note there is one hidden under a tagboard. The main electrolytic will probably be OK but it's possible that the 16uF cap, C25 may fail even if reformed, It did on mine. I replaced the two 2uf electrolytics on mine but I used non polarised caps.
Before you start check the two windings on the frame oscillator transformer. These are prone to failure. If there is an open circuit winding they can be rewound, Ed Dinning and Mike Barker both offer rewinding services. Once it's running a quick way to check the tube is to briefly connect the tube cathode to chassis via a resistor of around 10k. The screen should light up. this should give you an idea of how good the tube is. Keith |
17th Nov 2016, 10:45 am | #3 |
Nonode
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bocking, near Braintree, Essex, UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Hi Daniel
If you require valves for this then contact Mike Lewis he is a BVWS member Regards Ken |
18th Nov 2016, 4:10 pm | #4 |
Retired Dormant Member
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Hello Keith.
Thanks for your reply. I have taken out the chassis for a look. I can now see that (I think T2) has broken down and the wire has broken at the top So I have tagged it back on. You mention the windings on the frame oscillator transformer. Would I be right in saying on the schematic it's T5? Also I can see that C60 has got very hot and melted the wax off it. |
18th Nov 2016, 4:15 pm | #5 |
Heptode
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Dumfries, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 549
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
To be honest that line output transformer looks better than either of mine and they both work.
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18th Nov 2016, 4:30 pm | #6 |
Dekatron
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Location: W.Butterwick, near Doncaster UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
C60 is probally "leaky" hence it has got hot .Be careful though, don't do a mega cap change in one foul sweep. Too much room for errors.
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18th Nov 2016, 5:29 pm | #7 |
Dekatron
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Hmm. That's down to the method one uses to change caps. Personally I don't unsolder components from tag strips, or indeed unsolder hardly any soldered wires that may be joined on larger components. It's too difficult, takes too much time, components and wiring get very hot, and - as you say - there's chances of making mistakes with disconnected wires all over the place. The best method to avoid all of this is to snip the cap's wires as close as you can to the cap, them form the leads of the new cap into coiled 'tubes' using small round nose pliers to do so, then insert the 'tubes' over the removed cap's captive leads and solder. It's quick, easy, kind to components and it looks neat. I changed from 'unsoldering wires on tag strips' to the method described above 30 years ago and have never looked back. What started it was my first attempt to change all the carbon film resistors for metal film ones in a Quad 22 control unit. Even as an experienced 'solderer' I was burning the insulation off wires attached to tag strips. So I stopped doing it like that and snipped the resistors off etc as described.
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18th Nov 2016, 6:44 pm | #8 |
Dekatron
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
That is exactly what I do Steve with very exceptions.
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18th Nov 2016, 7:01 pm | #9 |
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Steve thanks for the advice, I like the sound of the way you change the caps, it sounds a much better way so I will give it a go as with the first radio I had a go a, I burnt all the insulation from the wires
I am going too buy all the caps now too replace the old waxys. I'm just a little worried that I dont know if my tube is working as that's one of the bits almost impossible to source. |
18th Nov 2016, 9:50 pm | #10 |
Dekatron
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Location: Rugeley, Staffordshire, UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Listen. Don't worry about the tube. Do what you can to make the set work. Most tubes that have lasted this amount of time are the 'good' ones, they work..
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18th Nov 2016, 9:58 pm | #11 |
Pentode
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Herne Bay, Kent, UK.
Posts: 233
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Hello Dan, I also use this method of component replacement I have a selection of various sized panel pins (nails!) which I put in the vice & wrap the new component tails around. I have managed quite a few TV revivals (including Bush TV22 and 24) with help from this invaluable forum.
I am only just up the road from you in the British Crown Colony of Herne Bay! If you need any help I would be more than happy to help if I can. Regards Steve. |
21st Nov 2016, 8:59 pm | #12 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Margate, Kent, UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Hello Steve.
Nice to hear from a local who shares the same interest. Using the panel pins sounds a great idea, got loads of them kicking about just got too find them. I appreciate the offer for some assistance because to be honest I think I'm a bit over my head taking on a TV, but it's all good fun. As your not far from me maybe we could arrange a time to meet up for a chat etc as it would be nice to actually speak to someone who knows about it. Are you into radios as well? |
21st Nov 2016, 9:10 pm | #13 |
Dekatron
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Location: W.Butterwick, near Doncaster UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
My advice is take the help. Most Bush TV22's I have restored have had excellent CRT's mainly Mullard which is very positive. If it still has a label on it.
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22nd Nov 2016, 1:13 am | #14 |
Heptode
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Dumfries, Scotland, UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
If push comes to shove I have a known working CRT you can have providing we can find a way to get it to you but as mentioned above they generally seem to last very well.
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23rd Nov 2016, 9:29 pm | #15 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Margate, Kent, UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Really appreciate all the replies and help people.
I will let you know how I get on when my caps finally arrive. Can't wait too get into it. |
23rd Nov 2016, 11:28 pm | #16 |
Pentode
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Herne Bay, Kent, UK.
Posts: 233
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
Hello Dan
I have a Muter CRT tester. I'm no John or David (HCS or Fernseh) but from past experience most 9" Mullard tubes will give some kind of a raster. The boost cap (EHT) is well hidden on the back of the "main" tag strip. Frame area caps if left will cause the frame transformer on tag strip on LHS of chassis to go O/C. My suggestion is to do one cap at a time. If you get a raster I could bring an Aurora down to give you a hand. Hope this helps Regards Steve. |
24th Nov 2016, 12:46 am | #17 |
Nonode
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK.
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Re: Bush TV 22 help
When I did my TV22 back in 2009 I replaced all the waxies and some of the electrolytics before powering it up, replacing them one at a time. When powered up the time bases were both working, there was plenty of EHT but no raster on the screen at any setting of the brightness control. I briefly connected the CRT cathode to the chassis via a 10k resistor which brought up a bright raster on the screen. As soon as I connected an Aurora there was a picture. I then had to adjust all the presets and focus magnets to get a decent picture.
So it may be necessary to have a signal to get a raster. Keith |