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Hints, Tips and Solutions (Do NOT post requests for help here) If you have any useful general hints and tips for vintage technology repair and restoration, please share them here. PLEASE DO NOT POST REQUESTS FOR HELP HERE! |
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#1 |
Heptode
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ware, Hertfordshire, UK.
Posts: 792
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Hi all,
I often use T-cut for cleaning and polishing metal, glass and Bakelite. I recently bought some more of the same or so I thought. What I actually got was the new "Rapid" formula. This has replaced the traditional formula in the shops. Now this change may have happened some time ago as it had been ages since I last bought any. It has less amonia, less cutting compound and lots of wax. It is much thicker and is white in colour instead of the usual yellow. Apparently the recipe change is to make it more suitable for modern paint finishes. It does not seem to do much, so I'm assuming the "Rapid" name is supposed to be ironic! Well it was an unfortunate waste of money. I've checked the manufacturer's website and they state that the original formula can now be obtained in the old style cans. I have found it for sale online, but you might not be able to buy it at your local motor factors anymore. Cheers Andy
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#2 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 16,386
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The wax was always the problem with T-cut. It was the devil to remove if you wanted to cut a paint finish for re-painting. I used to use ICI Belco medium rubbing compound, but you can't get it any longer. What you can get is a range of grades of Farecla cutting compound. Done by hand, it's tediously slow stuff because it's intended to be used with a machine. Number 3 cuts moderately well, 6 is general purpose, and number 10 is needed for getting perspex glittery. On small things like radio bits, machinery is impractical so it's a lot more work than it used to be.
One of the uses of cutting compounds is to remove years of build up of wax or silicone polishes and muck. Ideally you want to remove everything to a clean surface, and only then do you want to apply new, clean wax. If your cutting compound contains wax, then the dirty old stuff you're trying to remove mixes in with the new wax and is kept on the surface. You dilute the dirtyness, but you don't remove it very efficiently. David
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#3 |
Octode
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Spalding, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire, UK.
Posts: 1,346
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Car boots, when they are allowed again, can be a good source of older part-used products at a good price.
Rob
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#4 |
Hexode
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gosport, Hampshire, UK.
Posts: 450
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That's interesting! I've got most of a large bottle left that I've had for quite a few years. I'll be a bit more economical with it in future!
John
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#5 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: London, UK.
Posts: 3,278
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I have an OG bottle.
David, what was the thinking to include the wax in the compound? I know it was supposed to restore ‘colour and lustre in seconds’ but an additional wax was supposed to be applied on top, right ?
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Al "Plans are useless but planning is indespensible..." (Eisenhower). |
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#6 |
Heptode
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 792
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T cut never used to have wax in it, whoever suggested it did is wrong.
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#7 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Staffordshire Moorlands, UK.
Posts: 4,188
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Funnily enough I used to use t-cut for Bakelite, but after running out recently (a very old bottle) I bought some new stuff and it simply didn't cut it (no pun intended) on a weather-worn DAC90. It never occurred to me there might be a change in ingredients.
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Kevin |
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#8 |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 16,386
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Like many materials, modern versions not only have to dodge ingredients verboten by health and safety, they also have to handle lower levels of knowledge in the general population as well as the trend for instant gratification. A paint surface free of any wax polish looks relatively dull and shows up any oily residues. Including a wax stops people seeing it in this state and makes the after-cutting job look better.
But getting a surface fully wax-free is important if you're going to paint it, especially if you want to blend in an area, and are working with period-correct cellulose paint which will slightly dissolve with the thinner in the new coat. Original T-cut used to leave a slight oily film which you didn't get with Belco compound. David
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Can't afford the volcanic island yet, but the plans for my monorail and the goons' uniforms are done |
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#9 |
Octode
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wimbledon, London, UK.
Posts: 1,385
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I think there is a similar product to T-Cut available in Poundland (when and if they open again). I recall there being a thread on this forum about it, but my memory is a little hazy (my wife has Alzheimer's, is it infectious?)
![]() Colin. |
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#10 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oxfordshire, UK.
Posts: 3,101
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The original T-cut was a quite abrasive formulation and it was easy to do damage to car paintwork. Knowledgeable car enthusiast tended to avoid it, suggesting it was typically used by unscrupulous garages, who wanted to make rough cars look good quickly, even if they would look bad again in a couple of months.
The bottle which I have (bought in the 1970's) is occasionally used on anything where a coarse abrasive is appropriate. Apart from that, I have a shelf full of Meguiars' stuff. B
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#11 |
Octode
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Bath, Somerset, UK.
Posts: 1,488
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I am glad that this has come up, I thought it was just me. I bought a 500ml bottle of the stuff in Lidl a year ago and thought "this is harder work than it used to be". I think I will just splash out on another 1litre tin of Brasso, at least it still works, for now.
Neil
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preserving the recent past, for the distant future. |
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#12 |
Octode
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Redruth, Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 1,819
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Hi.
The Unipart cutting compound I've been using over the years, which was obtained from a motor factors, has been very good. It looks similar to T-Cut but was much cheaper. Maybe check your local motor factors for a suitable alternative. I've also successfully used metal polishes too such as Autosol, Brasso and Silvo. They all work well with care. Regards, Symon |
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#13 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Portland, Dorset, UK.
Posts: 480
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Euro Car Parts do the old style bottles if people were looking for a supplier,
£11.49 for 500ml or £7.09 for 300ml https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/t-cut...00ml-553998610 https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/t-cut...00ml-553998600 |
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#14 |
Hexode
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Owston Ferry, North Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 499
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At my last employers paint shop they used something called 'paint rubbing compound G3', don't know whats in it though.
Dave |
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#15 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Oxford, UK.
Posts: 15,256
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![]() But I can't see anything likely on their website. |
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#16 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Warnham, West Sussex. 10 miles south of DORKING.
Posts: 7,745
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Poundland is open in Horsham probably because it sells food. J.
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#17 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 16,386
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The numbers don't seem ordered G6 is the more abrasive (not as fast as the old Belco medium paste, though) G3 is listed as fine G10 is very fine The ratings seem to assume machine application, so they are a lot milder with hand-powered rubbing. Cost is about £30 for a big bottle, £10 for the smaller ones and about £7 for a big toothpaste tube. All trade and plus VAT. David
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Can't afford the volcanic island yet, but the plans for my monorail and the goons' uniforms are done |
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#18 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Southport, Merseyside, UK.
Posts: 478
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In the days when I rode motorcycles there was a compound called Solvol Autosol ( I think!) . It was pretty abrasive soft smooth paste and would get the blueing off chrome exhaust pipes. Used gently it could be useful for the purposes referred to above.
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#19 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Southport, Merseyside, UK.
Posts: 478
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P.S.
I have just found this link:- https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/autosol-products They have a wide range of products, the original is about £4 for a 100ml tube
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#20 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rugeley, Staffordshire, UK.
Posts: 4,925
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Oh well, together with various ancient tins of my own, I inherited my dad's tins so I have enough to see me out I reckon!
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