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Old 30th Jun 2020, 1:50 pm   #21
slidertogrid
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

I wouldn't boost the tube once it's been boosted it will go down hill fast. later in line tubes never responded well to boosting it should always be a last resort to get the last out of a tube. If you boost it and it dies putting the resistor back will not do any good...
You will get a much longer life by reducing the value of the heater resistor.
Earlier Delta gun colour tubes and monochrome responded to boosting better as there was more cathode material later ones had less and if you boost it you run the risk of removing some leaving very little to carry on working.
I am sure some will disagree as opinions vary on boosting or reactivating some engineers liked the B&K others did not.
All I can say is that in my experience over running the heaters was a safer way that lasted and gave you a second chance later to further improve emission . reactivation is a one time hit or miss...
If the tube fails there is no need to replace the whole monitor just look for a donor TV with a good tube. A TX9 with a 20 " screen would be ideal as the tube and coils will swap over easily and just plug in.
TX9s still turn up from time to time you should have a fair while yet out of the original tube so plenty of time to wait! I will keep an eye on my local house clearance firm's skip for you!
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Old 30th Jun 2020, 1:52 pm   #22
Welsh Anorak
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Hopefully you'll have the instructions with the BK - it takes a bit of getting used to with the setting up. Cleaning and balancing is probably all you need in this case. As long as you follow the instructions and have the correct tube base you won't do any damage.
PS I agree with the above post, but I've found the clean and balance function to be quite effective when only one gun is down as in this case. Blasting the poor thing is asking for trouble!
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Old 30th Jun 2020, 2:31 pm   #23
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

It is supposed to have all the connectors and instructions. I was thinking of analysis and then perhaps a clean and balance. The last thing I want to do is blow the thing.

All the resistors and the analyser are on order for delivery next week some time, so will keep me busy for a few days after they arrive. (which will please the Mrs. no end)

I know some might say its a waste of time getting a B&K for one tube, but I am hoping to get more vintage arcades over the years, and its like any hobby you just chuck money at the stuff you have an interest in - lol.
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Old 2nd Jul 2020, 2:34 pm   #24
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Well the B&K arrived this morning, still waiting on the resistors (which is a good thing)...

Watched a few youtube videos on the subject - put it on, and did a test on the red gun and it reported in the red bad section, so I did a clean and balance on just the red gun, when I re-tested it it was in the high end of good.

I did not bother doing it on the green and blue as they are ok I was unsure if I should or not but my logic said that if the others are good best leave them, the result is I had to turn down the red gain and background - and the brightness.

The colours all show from a cold startup - and apart from a shake which I think is a smoothing cap problem in the power supply part, the picture is really colourful and nice.

I am really pleased and want to thank you all, you guys ROCK !!
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Old 2nd Jul 2020, 3:05 pm   #25
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Your logic is spot on - leave well alone. Now you've just got to find a load more arcade games with duff tubes...
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Old 2nd Jul 2020, 5:27 pm   #26
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

I'm on it - lol

Cheers
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Old 2nd Jul 2020, 8:32 pm   #27
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

You mention a “shake”, if this is an occasional horizontal twitch then it’s most likely due to a dead spot on the line hold control. With it turned off rotate it from end to end a few times with a touch of contact cleaner, should cure it.

John.
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Old 3rd Jul 2020, 8:03 am   #28
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Hi John,
The shake seems to change, some times its like a slight vibration, other times its like jelly, but its only slight - a bit like a ripple but its on all the time, the screen is vertically mounted and seems to wobble from right to left a tiny bit. That would translate to the vertical I think.

It seems to have its original smoothing cap, and videos I have watched suggest this is the likely culprit.

Pic
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Old 3rd Jul 2020, 9:43 am   #29
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

I wouldn't think it's the main electrolytic as that would be more of a travelling hum bar. down the screen. Of course at this age all bets are off, and it could be a capacitor.
John suggests the line hold control which would be a left-right wobble in a normal TV. However as yours is the wrong way round, I'd be going for the controls in the frame stage in the way he suggests, though do mark their original positions.
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Old 3rd Jul 2020, 5:15 pm   #30
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Will do - thanks again.
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Old 8th Jul 2020, 8:40 am   #31
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Just an update:-
I twiddled all the presets, most did something but not what I was looking for and some did not seem to do anything at all. Others had no effect on most of the travel, and then all of a sudden had a huge effect towards the end.

I twiddled one at a time, and managed to put them all back to their original positions, and the monitor is no worse or better then before. I have ordered two 500uF 200V capacitors from Farnell to replace the mains smoothing cap 500+500uF 175v.

Ump..

I figured it won't do any harm to replace it, and can always put the old back if it makes it worse.
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Old 8th Jul 2020, 6:18 pm   #32
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Well I figured wrong again !!

So I went ahead and replaced the can with two caps, plugged it all up and powered it on, all seems ok except I only have a vertical line up the middle of the screen. I have had this before when I forgot to plug the yoke in.

So switched it all off and checked - all was ok so I plugged it in again and nothing.. dead unit.

Swapped the fast blow fuse for a 1A (should be 1.6A) but I don't have any - and it instantly blows.

Panic sets in, and I put the old cap back in, same effect.

I decide to replace the 1.6A fuse with a 5 amp fuse, just in case 1A is not enough - the result is the transformer L65 gets very hot - very quickly.

Thinking I have bent some legs on the component side, I took to a magnifier lens to look for shorts, but cant see any. Will resume tomorrow.

I don't suppose anyone knows what the problem is (apart from the problem being me) ?
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Old 9th Jul 2020, 4:08 pm   #33
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Here is the diagram for the power supply in case anyone wants to see what would be the likely culprit.

Power supply
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Old 11th Jul 2020, 12:11 am   #34
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Umpa2016 View Post
I decide to replace the 1.6A fuse with a 5 amp fuse, just in case 1A is not enough - the result is the transformer L65 gets very hot - very quickly.
I don't have much experience with these sets, but it looks like the crowbar is active and you are overloading the powersupply with your 5A fuse.

Disabeling the crowbar for diagnosis might help. Use the correct fuses.
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Old 11th Jul 2020, 10:07 am   #35
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Firstly, Hans is right - use the correct fuse or else you're in for some very hard work! As it's L65 overheating it's got to be something after that, so L64 is innocent for once.
I'd check and check again whether you've accidentally shorted something when you changed the capacitors - we've all done something like that!
Then it's basic fault finding.
Try cold checks on the semiconductors first, especially the diodes in the area. This could save hours - and fuses!
For 'hot' checks you need a good stock of (correct!) fuses, possibly a variac or lamp limiter. Now is there a short delay (no pun intended) before the fuse blows or lamp lights? This indicates the crowbar firing as Hans says. You need to reduce the HT preset to minimum. I have a niggling feeling this might be clockwise on earlier panels, but you need to check. Hang a meter on the HT rail and see what happens before the set trips.
If the fuse blows instantly things are easier and it probably is the bridge rectifier.
Good luck!
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Old 11th Jul 2020, 1:40 pm   #36
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

The one time I forgot to plug the yoke in (on a Panasonic Alpha 2), it shut down the line stage by shorting out the LOPT transistor and blowing a bunch of fusibles. Quite a frustrating mistake to make!

Not sure if something similar's happened here, but a dodgy scan coil connector may be asking for trouble. Worth checking the LOPT transistor for shorts, just in case..
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Old 11th Jul 2020, 2:11 pm   #37
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

I do remember the TX9 being a bit fussy about the scan coil connector, but that was the frame stage.
The line stage was not helped by the fact some early prodution models had the locating pin wrong so it had to be removed in the factory, resulting in back-to-front pictures when you replaced it the 'right' way round!
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Old 11th Jul 2020, 10:10 pm   #38
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Welsh Anorak View Post
I do remember the TX9 being a bit fussy about the scan coil connector, but that was the frame stage.
The line stage was not helped by the fact some early prodution models had the locating pin wrong so it had to be removed in the factory, resulting in back-to-front pictures when you replaced it the 'right' way round!
..and all the upside-down ones were exported to Australia!

I'll get me coat..
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Old 15th Jul 2020, 9:24 pm   #39
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Thanks guys I will let you know how I get on. Just for clarification can the board be powered up without the CRT being connected ?
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Old 16th Jul 2020, 9:45 am   #40
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Default Re: Ferguson TX9 Chassis

Yes and no. I'd rather not have an EHT lead in mid-air whilen the set unexpectedly bursts into life! However if you disconnect the line stage and load the power supply with a bulb (old-school, 60W) then yes, it's possible. Normally this wouldn't be necessary but of course you're talking about a games machine and from experience I know how awkward access can be.
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