Soldering tip query

[lesmw0sec]

I use a fairly ancient Maplin temp-controlled iron. Sadly, replacement tips do not seem to be available, so I turn my own from brass rod which works fine, except that the erosion speed is quite high.

I note that the original seems to be made from steel, and I was wondering if anyone knew what the nature is of the material with which they (or Weller) are plated?

[barrymagrec]

Modern (ish) bits are normally made from iron plated copper.

The iron plating needs to be tinned prior to use.

[lesmw0sec]

Originally Posted by barrymagrec

Modern (ish) bits are normally made from iron plated copper.

The iron plating needs to be tinned prior to use.

Ah- thanks. I might give that a try.

[David G4EBT]

The Maplin tips were magnetic, so they were either iron or iron plated. They also had a white coating which looked ceramic. I've sent you a PM Les as I have two blister packs each of three unused Maplin bits type N79AR for their 50 Watt Temp controlled Solder Station, the code of which was N78AR.

Maplin did sell several models of solder stations over the years, so those may not be what you need.

(Un-plated tips of any make or model do wear out quite quickly).

[David G4EBT]

Les tells me that they're not the tips that his iron uses, so I'll offer them in the 'for sale' forum.

(My Maplin 'N78AR' Solder Station failed so I have no need for the spare tips).

[David Simpson]

A tip for tips - Home made brass tips, a good idea, but when not in use - leave them tinned with solder, & flux free. Whilst cooling down, before the solder hardens - give the tip a good wipe with a piece of dry cloth or kitchen roll - just enough to remove excess solder & remnants of flux. Might take a bit of trial & error, judging temperatures & vigour of wiping.
Never leave small pits in the tapered end - file away & re-tin. Another hint - if you are an infrequent solderer - remove the tip from the iron & keep in a sealed - TIN. Decent old tobacco tins are ideal. Or a Fererro Rocher wee box - they have tight fitting lids.
I'm assuming you're using good old 60/40 flux cored solder, as I and many other vintage enthusiasts do ? Modern lead free stuff needs higher tip temperatures which doesn't bode well for copper or brass tips.

Regards, David

[Oldcodger]

And as this is Vintage ,I'll add another old /vintage tip from the old blokes in the bush in what is now Zimbabwe. Signalling cables to relay the position of trains were attached to rails using soldered connections. Irons were heated on a fire made from dead wood. The tip of this old iron was prone to problems and we solved the tinning problem by using the supplied Sal Amoniac block to remove corrosion on the tip. ( Another story, but we also found another use for the Sal Ammoniac block- cleaning the commutator on points motors).

[lesmw0sec]

Originally Posted by David Simpson

I'm assuming you're using good old 60/40 flux cored solder, as I and many other vintage enthusiasts do ? Modern lead free stuff needs higher tip temperatures which doesn't bode well for copper or brass tips.

Regards, David

Too right squire. I avoid that lead-free stuff like the plague, along with any other counter-productive twaddle!

[G6Tanuki]

The dissolving of copper (or copper-containing) soldering-iron bits was a well-known thing in times-past.

As noted, iron-plating of the bit was one way to control this (just don't file it or you remove the plating); the other way is to add a small controlled quantity of copper to the mix rather than having it pure 60/40 like plumbers and electricians use.

This is the basis of multicore "Savbit" solder, which still seems to be available from the likes of Farnell and RS.

See www.farnell.com/datasheets/315929.pdf

You don't need your bits to erode!

[lesmw0sec]

Well, I have achieved success with iron plating. I learned something in the process too, as I made some iron acetate first (iron + white vinegar + H202 + heat). Not having done this before, I was not aware that the reaction when it eventually starts, is quite energetic and ended up having to mop up brown froth which had spilt all over the kitchen cooker...

Anyway I had enough left in the beaker for the plating, using a nail as the anode.

[Radio Wrangler]

If you want iron nails, rather than the usual mild steel, look for horse-shoe nails. THey are soft iron but you may run into difficulty getting them as people may suspect you might want them for their intended use - It is illegal for anyone other than a registered farrier to do that.

David