Capacitor help/recapping, what to buy?

[garrard.mike]

I have a very basic one valve wonder in my record player.
I am determined to recap myself but I could use a little help if you have the time please.

My plan is:
replace the paper caps first
replace the filter caps next
replace the selenium after that, with diode and resistor.

One step at a time for me.
I have good knowledge and skills, I know how to safely discharge caps with one hand behind my back. I have great soldering skills.
I do need a little help identifying what caps to buy, so:

Cap A
Tone control pot to pin 6 of the UCL83
0.0005MFD
25%
500vdc

Cap B
Chassis to pin 3 of the UCL83
0.1uf
350v wkg

Cap C
Between pins 1-9 of the UCL83
0.01MFD
1000v

So, what to I buy today please, to replace these three caps.
It is my intention to replace the filter cap next.

the markings on the outside of the can are as follows:
16-32MFDS
red outer 16
350v max wkg
424v surge
BEC CE 890
british patent
555964
mar 57
made in England

Which two new caps do I need to replace this please?

As I say, I have good electrical knowledge, I just need a little help with the theory stuff so if you have the time, I should be most grateful

[Station X]

This question comes up time and time and time again.

See the sticky thread here:-

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=88767

0.0005uF is the same as 500pF.

As for the smoothing capacitor, there's no need to replace it unless it gets hot or the player hums excessively. Some hum is inevitable with cheap record players like these.

[garrard.mike]

Thanks Graham.
I have read the thread, but as I mentioned, numbers, maths and theory blind me like some kind of dislexia, so I specifically asked if someone could translate things for me.

Thanks for your pointer to the other thread, I have read it but my eyes just glaze over.

[Station X]

Determine what caps you need ie capacitance value, tolerance and minimum working voltage.

Go to the websites of RS Components or Farnell and do a search for what you want. Check the spec, then buy.

If uncertain post a link to what you're considering buying and someone will confirm whether it's suitable.

I could post links to suitable components, but you wouldn't learn anything that way.

[Station X]

BTW. MFD is another way of wring uF, both denoting micro farad or 1 millionth of a farad.

[garrard.mike]

again, I repeat, I have no confidence in my skills at getting the values correct which is why I asked for specific help.

I don't particularly want to 'learn' this is a one off I don't intend to repeat.

Hand me a soldering iron and I can do exactly as required, I am not a component level technician but I can replace components with great ease.

You could post links to suitable components, it's a great shame you didn't, I will have to seek help elsewhere.

thanks again for your input, and your not understanding my blind difficulty with numbers.

have a nice day

[Station X]

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/polyp...itors/0114604/

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/polyp...itors/0114575/

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mica-capacitors/7441562/

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/alumi...itors/5262310/

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/alumi...itors/7112147/

http://uk.farnell.com/vishay/1n4007g...-41/dp/9549129

[garrard.mike]

thank you for taking the time to post those links
Most Grateful

[garrard.mike]

Again, Thankyou for the links.
I have written down the values of the components and been to our local craft shop who are going supply them as single items for me, to save me having to buy 'minimum' purchase from RS which would run to around £50 in all.
I wont be making a habit of this repair malarkey, I just want to get my record player running again so I can enjoy my old mono records on the Garrard RC120.
Buying packs of 5 caps is pointless for my needs.
Thanks again for the help. It's much appreciated.

[Argus25]

Originally Posted by garrard.mike

replace the selenium after that, with diode and resistor.

I'm sure with all the help you are getting you will settle on good new capacitors.

I could make a remark about the selenium rectifier.

I would agree that with the difficulty of obtaining exact selenium rectifiers as spare parts, it is a good idea to replace a faulty rectifier with a diode and a resistor. Having said that, if your selenium rectifier is ok, there are some reasons why it might be better not to replace it.

In general, the selenium rectifier is a hardy and rugged reliable workhorse.

It behaves as a resistive rectifier (compared to a modern silicon rectifier) the dissipated heat of the voltage dropped is dissipated in the rectifier body.

The body of the selenium rectifier, with its heat radiator fins, is a physical structure that has a fairly low range thermal resistance of often less than 10 degrees C per watt (unless its a small physical sized one). The rectifier is constructed so that at its rated current, the operating temperature is fine for the selenium. The heat is spread over a large surface. The higher the currents of the particular appliance, the more heat, but these were fitted with physically larger rectifier units, so the temperature stayed in the correct range for the selenium. So the rectifier size was chosen by the manufacturer to support the operating current, in the particular appliance.

If a diode & resistor replace the original rectifier, the resistor has often to be physically large to have a surface area anywhere near that of the rectifier fins, or it will run very hot and might have to be mounted on metal stand-offs or ceramic washers depending on the current and required voltage drop. Though for low range currents and replacing a very small selenium rectifier its hardly an issue.

In any case, the selenium rectifier is a unique and interesting device, looks attractive, works well for its job, can handle the heat dissipation it was intended for, and does the job of two components (diode & resistor) in terms of what it has to be replaced with by a modern part. So if the selenium rectifier is ok, I would suggest leaving it as it is and it will look original too.

If some have had bad experiences with selenium rectifiers, there would be more inclination to replace it. However, I have found them more reliable than most components in vintage apparatus.

[bikerhifinut]

for odd purchases Maplins can still be useful.

[Argus25]

I see from the photo of the selenium rectifier you have on the other thread, it is not a type with fins or in an application that would get very hot at all, so my remarks on the post above don't apply on the whole. But still, if it is working fine it may be ok to leave it.

[Diabolical Artificer]

Don't be freaked out by caps they take a bit of getting your head round but they can be mastered. I had trouble with the nomenclature at first and for quite a while, like anything the more familiar you are and the more you practice, the easier it gets. Micro farads should be straight forward, but once you know how many zero's follow 1u to 1 pico, you should be ok.

So 0.000 covers the nano farad's 0.1 is 100n, 0.001(0) is ten, the last one can be tricky as it could be 1n or 1000p in old speak (have also seen 10,000p or 10n). Another three zero's covers the pico range, same as nano above, 1p = 0.000,001. strictly speaking 1p is 0.000,000,000,001 of a farad.

Nowadays most caps in the nano range are labelled with as a division of micro, 0.000, IE 10nis written as 0.01u for instance. Nano has mostly gone out of use. Pico is still pico.

So have a go, there's is no theory as such, if you can discharge caps with one hand behind your back, whilst balancing an eel on your nose and making dinner for two, cap speak should hold no fear : ) A kato to jump out of the wardrobe at odd moments to ask you what 10 nanofarads are in micro farads would be useful, but not essential. Karate is optional.

Andy.

[Station X]

All very true Andy. I tried to make the same point in post #2 by linking to a stick thread. However the OP subsequently made it quite clear to me that this was a one off repair and he didn't want to learn anything.

Originally Posted by garrard.mike

I don't particularly want to 'learn' this is a one off I don't intend to repeat.

What he wanted was for someone to tell him what to buy and presumably where. I believe he now has the components on order.

[garrard.mike]

I wasn't aware that being patronised and being forced to 'learn' anything was a condition of belonging to this forum, so please accept my apologies for not meeting the demands I have obviously overlooked.

I am a highly qualified a/v technician, and have been running theatres and recording studios for 30 years. I am not a component level technician, and at 60yo it's unlikely I ever will be.
I can make you 40 XLR leads in less that 15 minutes. I can hand solder your patchbay in no time, I can hook your mixer up at the drop of a hat with one hand tied to a kangaroo.
I can rig your lights and patch your lighting desk in the blink of an eye. Need 100 Par Cans PAT tested by tea time? I am your man....

I have one vintage record player I am restoring for myself, so far I have completely stripped a Garrard RC120 4Ha (for the first time, with no help or guidance other than my own common sense) and it sings like a bird.
Now I need a quick re cap, so please forvgive me for not wanting to learn the finer points of micro farads and pico farads this time round, particularly as numbers can be confusing to me in areas I am not confident in.

I have extensively read every thread and seen every you tube video on the subject of re capping, seleniums diodes and even made my own cap discharge lead with a 470 ohm 5 watt resistor in readiness.

I am grateful for the links, parts are on order, but I am not grateful for being patronised.

I am very grateful for the positive posts and replies that have been posted by other kind memebers, so very many thanks for taking your time to help and inform me. It is most kind of you.

Have a nice day where ever you may be.

[garrard.mike]

Originally Posted by Station X

What he wanted was for someone to tell him what to buy and presumably where. I believe he now has the components on order.

I did not ask where to buy the parts, I have accounts with cpc and one call and Maplin and RS, but my local craft/hobby shop offered to source them for me, so I don't have to buy 5 of everything for one simple job, unfortunately they were unable to supply in the values required, so Cricklewood Electronics are supplying for me, over the phone, they easily comprehend my numbers problem, and I found them without any help from anyone other than google.

I just asked someone to kindly tell me what the values are today as I have a dyslexia with numbers and decimal points.

At sixty years old, in a 'help forum' I don't think that is too much to ask if one is polite. presumption is often wrong and misjudged.

So many kind replies for which I am grateful, I can't wait to play my old mono records on the Garrard once again, as I did in the 1960's

[ms660]

Originally Posted by garrard.mike

presumption is often wrong and misjudged.

Certainly is, that's why the zeros and the decimal point are important.

Lawrence.

[TrevorG3VLF]

G.M.
I do not see where you were being patronised, you were given information and advice which I think was sound. On another forum I was told to go back to school, I did object to that particularly since I still think I was right.

My question would be why are you changing all those components even though you do not know they are faulty? I prefer keeping the original parts if they work.
You have 20 years to catch up with me, I am still inquisitive and enjoy learning but I have decided to avoid computers as much as possible as I do not have the time.

Seems as if you are lucky to find a local shop to get components. I do very well here with Potts, Maplins, Bowood and RS all within 10 or 15 miles. Also Derby and South Normanton have radio clubs which can give specialist help.

[garrard.mike]

Originally Posted by TrevorG3VLF

I do not see where you were being patronised

that's because the point in your question about being patronised (from a mod, no less) has been deleted, along with my reply.

I was told earlier in the thread in no uncertain terms that:

"I could post the links" (to the capacitors you need) "but you need to learn, go to RS website and type in the caps and work it out"

I find that kind of reply highly patronising to a newbie who has no clue about farrads and caps, but I was then furnished with the links to the components, (from the same mod) after I suggested in my reply that I should maybe go elsewhere to get help .

[Station X]

If you're going to use quotation marks please quote accurately. What I actually said was this.

Originally Posted by Station X

Determine what caps you need ie capacitance value, tolerance and minimum working voltage.

Go to the websites of RS Components or Farnell and do a search for what you want. Check the spec, then buy.

If uncertain post a link to what you're considering buying and someone will confirm whether it's suitable.

I could post links to suitable components, but you wouldn't learn anything that way.