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Components and Circuits For discussions about component types, alternatives and availability, circuit configurations and modifications etc. Discussions here should be of a general nature and not about specific sets. |
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#21 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Brentwood, Essex, UK.
Posts: 3,333
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If it's ring pull, then it's pretty certain to be Aluminium. I haven't seen a steel sardine tin for years.
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#22 | |
Hexode
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Cedar Grove, Wisconsin, USA.
Posts: 431
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![]() Some of the newer components seem to have tinned steel leads, as they are attracted by a magnet. Dave, |
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#23 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Stafford, Staffs. UK.
Posts: 497
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Thanks for all the input. I had tried a quick scrape but it didn't seem to help. I have a fibreglass pencil somewhere so that's definately a try. I also have alloy wheel cleaner and descaler so other options.
I'm sure the terminals are meant to be soldered using ordinary solder, in fact I've used the very same parts before, just not from this batch of parts that I bought. The last batch came from RS as they were selling off their stock since the part was discontinued. I'll try the pencil first when I find it and report back here. |
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#24 |
Octode
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire, UK.
Posts: 1,268
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Tin cans seem to be coated in a varnish to reduce corrosion from the contents.
I used to use the base of Ovaltine drums which would solder very easily. Unfortunately they now use plastic containers. |
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#25 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Stafford, Staffs. UK.
Posts: 497
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So apart from the fact the old insert in my fibreglass pencil was breaking up so I got the bits in my fingers, the replacement is fine and worked nicely on one of the components. That and some flux from a pen. Still needed a couple of seconds for the flux to work and solder to take, but all legs now llok well tinned. Unfortunately I have none of the bare boards these are for, so need some more to confirm 100% that its worked but it seems great, thanks all.
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#26 | |
Octode
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sunderland, Tyne and Wear, UK.
Posts: 1,811
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Just a word of warning re: optocouplers as per the O/P, they can be damaged by either excess and/or prolonged heat, the following extract was taken from a technical bulletin issued by Sharp wrt the PSU repair on a few of their CTV chassis.
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#27 |
Octode
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Redruth, Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 1,574
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Hi.
Like others, I've always used a small craft knife to clean tarnished component leads and found this to work generally well. I have also successfully used a fibre glass pen but don't like using it due to the annoying fibres that stick in your skin. Many mains droppers (large ballast resistors) often show signs of rust on their tags and can be difficult to solder. After scraping clean the tags, I've found high melting point solder to work very well. It gives good adhesion to the tag probably due to silver content within the solder. Regards, Symon |
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#28 | ||
Octode
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Manchester, UK.
Posts: 1,531
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By the way, one sure way of destroying an LED is to solder it while it is illuminated, but don't ask how I know that.
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-- Graham. G3ZVT |
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#29 |
Octode
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sunderland, Tyne and Wear, UK.
Posts: 1,811
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Hi Graham,
Sharp also issued a later tech. bulletin which simply stated the opto should be soldered as quickly as possible for the above reasons, the extract above was simply the first instance I came across when I looked through my archives to quote in a post.
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#30 | |
Hexode
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Bognor Regis, West Sussex, UK.
Posts: 477
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Peter |
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#31 | |
Octode
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Dukinfield, Cheshire, UK.
Posts: 1,509
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Andy G1HBE. |
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#32 |
Heptode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 773
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I've got two tins of sardines in the food cupboard, both well in date, and have just tested them with a magnet. One is steel and the other is not.
Alan |
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#33 |
Triode
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Burgh Le Marsh, Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 16
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To get leads clean I use a green nylon scrubbing pad, just clamp it round the lead and drag it through twice. Cheap and very effective.
I use an off cut of fibreglass net rod rather than a fibreglass pen, about as effective but you don't get the sharp fibres and it will last a very long time ![]() Mick |
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#34 |
Hexode
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Lincoln, Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 493
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I use a fibre glass pen for anything that looks too iffy, but these days I also often use liquid flux as well as standard 60 40 cored solder as I find the flux (the type used with sm components) seems to improve things no end.
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#35 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Fife, Scotland, UK.
Posts: 12,718
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David
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Can't afford the volcanic island yet, but the plans for my monorail and the goons' uniforms are done |
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