E.A.R. DeLuxe record player.

[ms660]

2nd photo in Post#1.

1st photo Post#13.

3rd photo Post#20.

3rd photo Post#37.

Lawrence.

[parlourtw73vs]

Hey Techman, I'm just bursting with the desire to acquire multiple variations of 40 years or so of Avometers. But seriously, I'm not intending to go into the restoration of a succession of record players and radios. My interest is mainly in listening to records and I have a nice vintage HiFi setup which is perfect for my advanced hearing impairment. I only purchased this as I liked the look of it and thought that with its spec. it could offer a pleasant listening experience with some of my older singles and mono albums. I did intend sending it off to a repairman upon finding it a non worker, but upon looking at it's circuitry I thought I might at least attempt to restore it myself with this forums guidance. I've learned quite a lot so far and really wish to progress further with it if it isn't taxing the patience of the various contributors up to now. I'm a pretty competent bloke with regard to mechanical problems and am respectable in the use of a soldering iron but, as I've said, I fall down in the tracing of circuitry and the correct testing of the various components encountered which is where I'm so dependent on yourselves. Glad you appreciate the highly expert fuse replacement and I also can't discern any connection between the earth connection on the volume pot and the other metalwork of the chassis but I stand to be corrected if I've missed something.

[Station X]

Capacitors to replace:-

Electrolytic Capacitors.

The three caps in the can 30uF, 20uF and 10uF.
The Red/Yellow/Black Plessey caps. Check their capacitance and voltage from the labels.
The big Yellow cap. Check the capacitance and voltage written on it.

Non-Electrolytic Capacitors.

C5, C8 and C9 on Lawrence's diagram. Check the values written on them.

Once we have the values we can tell you what to buy.

[parlourtw73vs]

Lawrence, when you're asking for a proper connection between the -ve of the reservoir capacitor and the amp. chassis, do you mean the large Hunts metal can? If so I can confirm that there are some lugs on its base which go through the metalwork and are either twisted to secure them and in 1 case it is soldered to the chassis and also some other wires.

[ms660]

Originally Posted by parlourtw73vs

Lawrence, when you're asking for a proper connection between the -ve of the reservoir capacitor and the amp. chassis, do you mean the large Hunts metal can? If so I can confirm that there are some lugs on its base which go through the metalwork and are either twisted to secure them and in 1 case it is soldered to the chassis and also some other wires.

No, the -ve connection of the substitute reservoir capacitor, the big yellow Dubilier one, the reason I mentioned it was in the context of your loud hum report earlier, eg: no effective reservoir capacitance = hum, apologies for any diversion.

As said earlier I would replace all the capacitors anyways if it were mine.

Lawrence.

[Techman]

Looking at the pictures listed, it looks like the negative wire of the yellow capacitor is possibly clamped under the transformer mounting bolt - not ideal if that's the case. The OP should do a continuity test from the negative wire itself to the main amplifier chassis.

[parlourtw73vs]

Here we go with my latest checks. The large Dubilier capacitor is marked up at 32mfd. 500v dc. I checked the connectivity between its negative terminal and the chassis. It showed continuity only as far as the transformer casing which makes sense as the lead is clamped under the screw holding the transformer to the cabinet. When I placed the other probe on the main metal chassis containing the valve holders and other components there was no indication of continuity at all.
The values of the capacitors I can identify are:-
The large yellow Dubilier 32mfd. 500v dc.
The Hunts metal can 30mfd., 20mfd., 10mfd., 275v dc.
The blown Plessey cap. 25mfd. 25v dc.
Other Plessey cap. 50mfd. 12v dc.
The capacitors marked as C5, C8 & C9 on Lawrences' schematic I don't have the knowledge to identify on the circuit diagram. Could someone please assist me in locating them on the photographs I've posted then I can find their values.

[ms660]

4th photo Post#20.....C5 is the brown(ish) circular disc shaped capacitor, C8 & C9 are the two brown(ish) dog bone shaped capacitors, the circular one is known a disc ceramic type and the dog bone shaped ones are known as tubular ceramic types, C8 & C9 would normally be the same value.

Lawrence.

[parlourtw73vs]

Forgot to ask, is there any way I can test these capacitors using my DMM?

[ms660]

Originally Posted by parlourtw73vs

Forgot to ask, is there any way I can test these capacitors using my DMM?

Not reliably without subjecting them to their rated maximum working voltage.

Lawrence.

[peter_sol]

Surely the main power supply electrolytics (reservoir and smoothing) should go to Chassis as should the case of the transformer. Maybe that yellow cap was tacked in as the ones in the can are duff?
Really needs some hands on help here it is already up to 109 posts anmd we have only just got the valves to light and confirmed that the GC8 cartridge is a dud.

[Techman]

It looks like the output transformer metalwork is isolated from the main chassis. If that yellow capacitor was fitted to replace a section of one in the large silver can, then it was done by someone who was completely incompetent and could never have worked like that.

There looks to be some of the same cable as used for the mains lead connecting those rectifiers, which don't in themselves somehow look original, and certainly not connected with that wire. The solder on the earth lug of the pot connecting the mains earth looks fresher than other solder joints. I suspect that even though it uses the old colours, that mains lead isn't the original.

I suspect that the player has been got at by someone, probably even decades ago and it never worked at the time and has just been in storage somewhere before being found again and put up for sale. I think you've still got to sort out why the valve heaters aren't working, but it'll probably turn out to be due to the phantom bodger breaking a connection somewhere.

[Techman]

Originally Posted by peter_sol

we have only just got the valves to light and confirmed that the GC8 cartridge is a dud.

Sorry, I missed the bit about the valve heaters being sorted. I've only been following this thread on and off.

If it's at this stage then there'll certainly be some mains hum with the yellow capacitor connected like that!

[Sideband]

The disc ceramics and the tubular ceramic are reliable and will probably be fine (unless physically damaged of course). With regard to measuring them on your DMM.....that depends on your DMM. If it has a capacitance range covering the values that you want to test then you can disconnect one end of the capacitor and measure it in the same way you measure a resistor. HOWEVER most DMM's even if they have a capacitance range are not ideal for measuring the true condition of the capacitor and are best used as a guide only.

Proper capacitance meters (known as bridges) have circuitry that is designed to check value and leakage.

[parlourtw73vs]

To the rescue again Lawrence, much appreciated. Here's what I found printed on them :-
C5 all I can perceive is [I think] the word ERIE and below that 01 and below thatPZ
C8 & C9 10k SZ.
I've uploaded 2 images then you can check for yourself.
Thanks, Malc.

[ms660]

Originally Posted by parlourtw73vs

To the rescue again Lawrence, much appreciated. Here's what I found printed on them :-
C5 all I can perceive is [I think] the word ERIE and below that 01 and below thatPZ
C8 & C9 10k SZ.
I've uploaded 2 images then you can check for yourself.
Thanks, Malc.

All three are 0.01uF, the Erie is marked .01 that means 0.01uF the other two are marked 10k, that's 10,000pF, 10,000pF = 0.01uF.....a lot folks on here would use the yellow 630 volt types as replacements, including me:

https://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/CFH10NH.html

Other suppliers are available.

Lawrence.

[Station X]

Recent posts noted.

I suggest that the OP disconnects the yellow lead of the big yellow capacitor from the output transformer and connects it instead to the main chassis. This may stop or reduce the mains hum.

[parlourtw73vs]

The posts come in very quickly so I'll try to answer these latest ones. The transformer casing and the main chassis metalwork are attached to a strip of hardboard. This appears original and obviously precludes any direct continuity between the two. Regarding the fresh solder on the mains earth, I did that as I removed the mains lead to originally remove the front panel and related electronics. I did this before realising I could simply pull the mains lead through but I assure you the connections were remade correctly. When looking at that first link to the Radio Museum example of this player there is no sign of anything resembling that large yellow Dubilier capacitor which may imply it's been replaced from a failing in one of the Hunts can components as suggested earlier. I guess the same can be said of the rectifiers. I also realise that this is becoming a bit of a marathon as regards these postings and wouldn't blame any of you for recommending I take it to a qualified technician. As I said, I would like to fix this myself and use the process to make my understanding of the problems involved a little clearer but if you think I've more or less hit a brick wall and should call a halt please don't hesitate to say so. I'm most appreciative of all the help received so far.
Malc.

[Station X]

Originally Posted by parlourtw73vs

When looking at that first link to the Radio Museum example of this player there is no sign of anything resembling that large yellow Dubilier capacitor which may imply it's been replaced from a failing in one of the Hunts can components as suggested earlier.

Malc.

Sorry to add yet another post. Check where the positive lead of the big yellow Dublier goes to. If it's wired to one of the tags on the smoothing can capacitor then an attempt has been made to connect it in parallel with one the caps inside the can, mostly likely the 30uF section. That would be OK were it not for the fact that the negative lead doesn't connect to the main chassis.

[Techman]

Ah, I see what you mean.

I know exactly what I would do if it were in front of me now. I'd remove the large yellow capacitor and re-connect the section of the original can as it may not have been faulty in the first place. It could be that the original section is still connected and the yellow cap was just an attempt to get extra smoothing due to a bit of hum - well it obviously didn't work!

With it all powered up, I'd measure the HT voltage at that reservoir capacitor or the output of those rectifiers and if it was found to be low, then I'd replace the rectifiers with a diode and appropriate series resistor.

I'd check for positive volts on the control grids of the output valves - there shouldn't be any, if there was, then it would indicate leaky capacitors. Those low value capacitors just being discussed are ceramic types and are very unlikely to be leaky, so leave them alone for the time being. Those electrolytics with the red ends and stuck on labels should be replaced without bothering to test them.

Edit: Post crossed with Graham regarding the possibility of the yellow capacitor being an attempted parallel connection to the original one.