EKCO RS3, discovered in gran's loft.

[dark_waters]

I am new to this forum so firstly I'd like to say hello.

Whilst clearing out some of the junk on my grans farm, we came across an EKCO R.S.3 series wireless. Its extremely dusty and has a valve missing but the case is complete with no cracks.

I dont have a clue about these things, I dont want to sell it, i'd love to get it working again for my grandmother who has sadly started suffering from dementia. Can anyone tell me how old this set is likely to be and what electrical things I should replace before I plug it in and risk burning my house down?

Also, what should I use to clean the bakelite with?

Any hints would be greatly appreciated,

Kind regards,
Rob.

[Neil Purling]

On no account should you plug a long disused set in without giving it some considerable attention first. If you didn't the result would probably be a big bang.
There are people who can do the necessary work to get the radio working again and return it to you fit for another fifty years service. If you are not confident in your own abilities then I am sure that there will be plenty of members who could reccomend someone you could entrust the Ekco to.

[ukcol]

Hi Rob and welcome to the forum.

Firstly the RS3 dates from 1931.

If you just want to get the Ekco going for your gran, follow Neil's sound advice.

If you want to get it going yourself I would echo (ekco) Paul's advice and not chose the RS3 for a first go. Purchase a 1950s radio (or two) which are available cheaply from places like ebay and do your learning on them.

Have a look at

http://www.vintage-radio.com/

where there is plenty of good advice and information. Take particular note of the advice on safety.

Have a look at

http://www.vintage-radio.com/

for service information.

If you get on OK (with perhaps some help from people on this forum) you may then acquire enough skill to tackle the EKco.

[ppppenguin]

Rob, what you have found is a relatively rare and desirable set. Even with the recent drop in values for vintage radios it is still commendable that you wish to keep and restore this set rather than sell it. Not a set for a beginner's first attempt at restoration.

As others have said, please don't plug it in. There will be quite a few parts that need replacing before this can be done safely.

[Nickthedentist]

How about just restoring the cabinet, and just displaying it as an objet d'art to start with?

Polishing-up the Bakelite would be easy enough, but don't do much with the speaker fretwork as you'll spoil its patina.

Nick.

[chipp1968]

This is one of my my favourite Radios lovelly .
To clean remove everything from the cabinet , and dust off and stick in in sink in hot water and deturgent and scub the dirt out of everything with old tooth brushbnail brush etc, the stippled panals are a pain for dirt. same with thegrooves in the knobs . when all dirt s gone , dry it and it will have gone quite dull . the bakalite needs burnishing with something like T CUT bt be carefull not to get it in the stippled parts ,trial and error really . when you have burnashed to a shine , apply furnature beaswax sparingly with a cloth , just enough not too much . burnish and it should come up very smart indeed .
Im glad u are going to hang onto it, u were very lucky to find a gem in your grans loft

[Nickthedentist]

Originally Posted by chipp1968

...stick in in sink in hot water and deturgent

Personally, I'd make that lukewarm water and the slightest dash of Fairy liquid.

Very hot water and something strong like Flash could leach a lot of things out of the Bakelite, leaving it faded and lifeless

Otherwise, Chipp's advice is absolutely spot-on

[Radio_Dave]

Bakelite is badly effected by water. If you do wash it, only use luke warm water and a dash of washing up liquid with a cloth or soft brush (nothing nylon or abrasive).

Don't make the mistake in thinking you're washing nicotine off the cabinet and start scrubbing even more... it'll be the irreplaceable glossy surface layer

Wash quickly and dry immediately with an old towel etc. Once dry polish with T cut, if necessary, and finish with shoe/boot polish.

On no account let anything containing alkaline touch bakelite (bleach etc) as it will destroy the surface

David

['LIVEWIRE?']

Bakelite Polish is available from Savoy Hill Publications. I have used some with good results on another 1930s Ekco recently. Refurb 40, available from CPC and other suppliers is also useful

[dark_waters]

Thank you so much for all your information! On no account do I intend on plugging it in just yet! so you can all relax, nobody needs to call 999 just yet.

There is one thing that looks slightly different on mine compared to a picture of one on the internet. Looking at the unit from the rear....to the right of the transformer in the middle section under the speaker, behind two valves towards the front of the set, there is a tall cylinder, looks like its made of copper, it has green powdery corrosion on the top, it has small breather holes in it? Is this a capacitor? It has pins on the bottom, and plugs into the base like the valves.
Looking at the state of it I wouldnt even think about putting electricity through it! Anyone know what this is? I've purchased a few diagrams but none of them seem to show it clearly. Looks like it needs replacing.

Anyway, in the meantime, im going to clean the casing carefully as advised above - thanks to all for your advise on that one. I will keep you updated on what I decide to do.

Thank you all for the warm welcome
Kind regards
Rob.

[kalee20]

This copper cylinder thing with ventilation holes, if it plugs into a valve holder it could be a catkin valve. This is a type of construction which used an external metal anode fused to a glass base. The whole lot was enclosed in an outer metal cover (your copper cylinder?) for protection and to guard against inadvertently touching the high-voltage anode connection.

The RS3 receiver should have 5 valves, so if yours has apparently 4 valves (including your missing one) then that could be what it is.

[dark_waters]

It may be a wet electrolytic? Its about 5 inches high and appears to be leaking white powder around its cap. It smells dodgy too!

[Nickthedentist]

Post us some pictures, please

[dark_waters]

A picture, as requested. You can see the corrosion on top. Hope this sheds some light?

[Nickthedentist]

That looks in really good condition

Not sure what the mystery component is. This picture shows an RS3 with nothing in that position: http://tibblestone.users.btopenworld.com/Ecko_RS3.htm

Nick.

[chipp1968]

thats very odd it looks like an electrolytic cap but they are useually aluminium and are fixed with a nut on the bottom on some earlier stuff ,but the black box on the left is the smoothing condensers , and you say it plugs in !
ive justlooked in a copy of Ekco service bulletin of dec 1931 shows a photo of the chassis and no sign of that at all

[dark_waters]

Ok I need to say sorry for my rubbish description. The mystery item does have a nut on the bottom of it and one wire. I have now carefully removed it. It doesnt have any numbers on it, but I have found some info after looking through google results....it may be part C17 a capacitor rated 8uf 460v.

Anyway, i'm going for dinner

[Nickthedentist]

Ah, so it doesn't plug-in?

Your cap therory sounds very likely.

It may be a replacement, mounted a different way from the original cap.

Nick.

[dark_waters]

The R.S.3. has a surface mouned electrolytic capacitor which is leaking and very old (the set hasnt been used for decades)

I plan to keep it mounted in the set, but bypass it for a new modern electrolytic capacitor underneath.
My question is that there appears to be a choice of an A/C capacitor and a D/C capacitor of the same ratings on the RS components web site.
Am I correct in assuming I need a D/C capacitor ?

Kind regards,
Rob.

[Phil G4SPZ]

Originally Posted by dark_waters

I have an Ekco R.S.3. It has a serface mouned electrolytic capacitor which is leaking and very old... I plan to keep it mounted in the set, but bypass it for a new modern electrolytic capacitor underneath. Am I correct in assuming I need a D/C capacitor ?

AC rated capacitors are designed for functions other than reservoir and smoothing duties. You need a replacement electrolytic rated at a DC voltage somewhat higher than the set's HT voltage. Typically, a 300 or 350 volt rated component would suffice, although I am unfamiliar with the RS3, so try to get a component with a voltage rating at least as high or higher than that marked on the original. The capacitance value is not particularly critical, but modern components are physically much smaller than those made in the 1930s and you should avoid fitting anything much greater in capacitance value, as this may overstress the rectifier valve.

When fitting the replacement capacitor, don't leave the original connected! It may explode. Disconnect it completely and just leave it in place for show.

There are other non-electrolytic capacitors which will almost certainly need replacing too, before you power up the set. The capacitor leading to the control grid of the audio output valve, and any decoupling capacitors with HT at one end and earth at the other are suspect, especially the wax-covered paper dielectric type. Some restorers replace these on sight to ensure reliability. Again, the voltage rating is most important.

Phil