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Old 28th Mar 2016, 6:19 pm   #21
Oldelectronics
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Hi folks well I think the wooden part of the cabinet is finished now I think all it needs is some gold lacquer possibly antique gold or brass may be better for the speaker grill I dont want to pay £14 + for a large tin from my local DIY store so it looks like a trip to the local model shop for a small tin for a couple of quid (I will take out the speaker again first). I have scrubbed it but its still looks grubby. I know the cabinet is probably not as professional as could be achieved by some on the Forum but I am happy with it! But I dont mind the odd bit of damage ( to the wooden stringing for example) thats shows the signs of its age and use. And all to the good if it means another old radio has not gone for scrap. I must try a slow switch on with my bulb limiter ('that capacitor' has been changed) I have not done it before As I have awaiting a couple of valves as two that came with it one was wrong and another the writing had rubbed off I want to be sure its right as far as possible and even as a worst case I cant get it going a cabinet is a spare part too and more importantly it's fun! For anyone who is interested I used Ronseal medium (brown) wood filler and a soft HB pencil for the grain lines and varnished it with Ronseal Antique Pine Satin interior varnish.So next stop a wanted thread for a back!
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Old 28th Mar 2016, 7:15 pm   #22
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Hello Kev,

Sorry I didn't get a chance to reply on stain colours, I always think it's a bit of a chance to choose colours via a computer screen - the pot lids are best to go by and sometimes they are only an approximation. I chose Antique Pine for the light bits of my Murphy A242 and Jacobean Oak for the darker cabinet. But, have applied neither yet as a kind member of the forum advised me I need to consider the choice of final coat (water or oil based) to decide which stain to use. I really need to get this one moving again.

I think your recreation of the wood grain has worked well and breaks up the plain filler, although it wasn't looking that bad before. I'll definitely use it to hide my wood filler efforts, but may need to try a different filler colour first - the repairs stick out like a sore, orange thumb.

The official repair method would have been a useful education, but would the end result merit the outlay on materials? For improving the looks of a potentially scrap radio, I think you've done a grand job!

Regards,

SR
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Old 28th Mar 2016, 7:53 pm   #23
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Hi Stuart, I just wanted a reasonable finish commensurate with my skill set, a woodworker I am not! And thank you for your kind comments. My own view is water based works for me as when dry you can put any finish on top of it or change it. I don't know if oil based gives a better finish I bet someone on here does though. I am looking forward to seeing your Murphy A242 as you have certainly put in the prep work.
Regards

Kev
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Old 29th Mar 2016, 10:10 am   #24
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Quote:
I don't know if oil based gives a better finish I bet someone on here does though.
I think Danish oil gives a far better finish than any varnish can, the final result is really down to how many coats you apply. If you prefer a satin finish, 3 coats should be adequate. Applying more coats will give you a more glossy finish.

It is quite easy to get a decent quality finish, I was more than happy with my first effort

I bought a tin of Danish oil from Wickes, at less than a tenner there is enough to do around 7 or 8 cabinets.

Mark
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Old 29th Mar 2016, 10:18 am   #25
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Hi Kev. Did you manage to preserve the Bush logo on the cabinet top?
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Old 29th Mar 2016, 1:05 pm   #26
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Hi Kev,
Those repaired areas have blended in very well - nice job!
Steve.
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Old 29th Mar 2016, 4:27 pm   #27
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Hi Sideband it seems ok?The varnish colour seems thin enough to allow an over varnish so the top is not patchy but allows the Logo to show through.

Thanks for the kind comment Steve

Many regards

Kev
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Old 30th Mar 2016, 2:38 pm   #28
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Default Re: Battered AC34

That's an excellent result on that cabinet and ought to be very heartening to anyone contemplating an otherwise potentially attractive but battle-scarred case. Far nicer to have veneered craftsmanship around as a tribute to maintainable solidity as opposed to ephemeral injection-moulded boxes that seem to be deliberately intricate and flimsy so as to deter any attempt at patching-up, combined with short-lived and deliberately out-moded electronics.

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Originally Posted by mark pirate View Post
I think Danish oil gives a far better finish than any varnish can, the final result is really down to how many coats you apply. If you prefer a satin finish, 3 coats should be adequate. Applying more coats will give you a more glossy finish.
I'd only heard good things about Danish oil, so I thought I'd try it on the walnut-veneer fascia around tuning scale and knobs on a Marconi 559 I acquired a while back. It was extensively knocked, scratched and worn, the thick, brittle lacquer was so dark as to all but conceal the grain, a bit like shiny school gravy (the tuning scale is the shade of stewed tea, photo-chemical?). It scraped away quickly and evenly to reveal lovely, characterful grain, I wire-wooled it to remove much of the scratching (I didn't have the confidence to remove the deepest scratches and knocks, though, as I wasn't sure how thick the veneer was). Three sparing coats of Danish oil with a light rub-down between produced a gorgeous warm and rich finish, I wouldn't have believed how well it turned out.
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Old 30th Mar 2016, 7:37 pm   #29
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Default Re: Battered AC34

If you still need gold lacquer it's always worth checking out the local £ shops for paint etc. I have seen gold aerosol sprays and brush paint in mine.
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Old 30th Mar 2016, 7:58 pm   #30
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Originally Posted by Oldelectronics View Post
Hi Sideband it seems ok?The varnish colour seems thin enough to allow an over varnish so the top is not patchy but allows the Logo to show through.
That's excellent Kev. What a great job to a really tatty cabinet. Once the chassis is restored you'll have a great looking and sounding set.
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Old 30th Mar 2016, 9:57 pm   #31
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Thanks guys I have limited skills as far as working with wood is concerned I just wanted a job that would make it presentable and if I can get the set working would look ok left out. It seems to have worked ok. I know there many out there who are producing wonderful results on cabinet's and that will stand up to any scrutiny but I am pleased with the result for a small outlay and a few hours work. Thanks for the tip ref gold paint Greenstar.

many Regards
Kev
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Old 31st Mar 2016, 5:19 pm   #32
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Default Re: Battered AC34

That looks an absolute treat! If you say nothing, no one will notice. Then if you show them the "before" photos, they'll be amazed. Shows what you can achieve if you're not scared of giving it a go.

Regards,
Paul
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Old 31st Mar 2016, 5:23 pm   #33
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Default Re: Battered AC34

A friend of mine used to have a Bush AC34. I gave him a "careworn" BSR UA14 to connect to the P.U. sockets. It sounded suprisingly good.

Regards,
Paul
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Old 31st Mar 2016, 8:06 pm   #34
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Thanks Paul I appreciate the comment, it made a difference that the products I bought were a surprisingly good match for the cabinet finish. It may have been harder with a cabinet that was darker as some products that are darker also seem redder. I did notice when I stood the cabinet on end. (so it was sitting on its Bush Logo)That the Bottom of the case was not very good a couple wooden blocks missing the back bottom corners were loose it looked like it had been stood somewhere damp for a long time the paint had come off some of it. I suppose I should have checked and done that first (doh lesson learned) So I treated it for worm just in case (no little round holes but some wood not great along the front edge and it cant hurt!) & replaced the wooden blocks filled & re glued as necessary then gave it a coat of matt black I had in the garage to protect it. No attempt to make it pretty was made, as in original condition they are serviceable under there not decorative! And at least now its strong and serviceable.It just requires a couple of felt pads and a 2nd coat of paint now properly dry.

Many Regards
Kev
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Old 1st Apr 2016, 8:59 am   #35
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Quote:
I did notice when I stood the cabinet on end. (so it was sitting on its Bush Logo)That the Bottom of the case was not very good a couple wooden blocks missing the back bottom corners
My AC11 had one of those blocks missing, but no sign of any damp. I think the glue goes hard and brittle, one little knock and the blocks can fall off!
I only noticed on my set because it wobbled on a flat surface.

Mark
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Old 1st Apr 2016, 12:49 pm   #36
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Hi Mark there had definitely been a bit of damp at the bottom of the case.I wonder if the glue is the old animal type that had to be heated in a pot.It would then make a nice snack for various bugs!

Kev
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Old 1st Apr 2016, 1:12 pm   #37
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Almost certainly that kind of glue.

Great work so far, Kev.

This stuff works very well for the grille. Just clean the grille with hot soapy water and a nail brush, dry thoroughly, and apply thinly with a brush. Job done! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastikote-B...asti-kote+gold
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Old 1st Apr 2016, 2:10 pm   #38
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Nice one Nick thank you

Kev
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Old 4th Apr 2016, 7:14 am   #39
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Default Re: Battered AC34

Hi folks
As a temporary measure until I can get hold of a proper back panel has anyone any idea if the perforated hardboard available for putting up hooks would allow enough cool air in and warm air out while keeping fingers out? Sorry the pictures dark but its just predrilled standard brown hardboard.

Regards

Kev
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Old 4th Apr 2016, 8:46 am   #40
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Default Re: Battered AC34

It should be fine as a temporary back, these sets do run quite cool.
If you cannot obtain an original back, 3MM MDF is ideal material to make a replica, unlike hardboard it is easier to work with.

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