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Cabinet and Chassis Restoration and Refinishing For help with cabinet or chassis restoration (non-electrical), please leave a message here. |
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#61 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Vieques, Puerto Rico, USA
Posts: 16
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The best preventative treatment is to not let the little critters get started. I say that because I've had collateral damage on other sets because of the ones in the infected sets.
Another war story. I had a RCA set that I restored and had for several years which only needed a support arch in back. I 'found' a piece of wood from which to make the arch. Six months later the cabinet was more powder than wood. I think that was self-inflicted. Anyway, I still swear by the flea and tick powder. I can't say that its effective in curing a problem but it seems to keep away the bugs with no smell. Sevin dust works to a degree but seems to lose its potency rather rapidly. |
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#62 |
Octode
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK.
Posts: 1,647
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Flea and tick powder are basically nerve agents and only work if they are applied to the wood when the beetle lays it eggs - which could be anywhere! - or as the larva emerges as an adult beetle in the spring. Meanwhile they have been feeding on the wood out of sight protected from woodworm treatment by an impenetrable plug of defecated celluose, visible from the surface... that needs to be drilled out to have any chance of attacking the larva.
Flight holes are exactly that - they have flown - so treating flight holes serves no purpose. But treating wood near the plugs and freshly dusted flight holes may catch emerging beetles - and spring is when they emerge! |
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#63 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rugeley, Staffordshire, UK.
Posts: 8,833
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I use an old, large syringe with most of the needle cut off till there's just a short stub. Load it with woodworm killer fluid, put it into a flight hole, press hard against the wood and then drive the fluid around the network of holes. You'll see it bleed out of other holes nearby. Repeat that in as many holes as you can and you know for sure that you have got the fluid into the middle of the wood as opposed to hoping that it'll soak in. I've done many sets like that in the past including a Philips 634 that I still own and there's never been a problem with more holes since.
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A digital radio is the latest thing, but a vintage wireless is forever.. |
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#64 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bath, Avon, UK
Posts: 235
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When treating a cabinet with wood worm killer can you just spray inside the cabinet or do you have to soak the lot. If the lot, what effect would that have on a cabinet that's been newly treated with BLO and then polish. Andy
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#65 |
Pentode
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 174
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You don't have to do anything. Just move the cabinet to a dry environment. Allow it to air out. That's it. I know it doesn't cost much. I know that it might make some feel uneasy. I know that it doesn't seem very proactive. That's all you need to do though. If you are still unhappy then sprinkle a pinch of talcum powder on the inside of the cabinet.
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#66 |
Octode
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rye, East Sussex, UK.
Posts: 1,647
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Re Andy's specific question.
You have to remember that insecticides are only truly effective if absorbed into the cell structure by osmois so that the active ingrediant is ingested by the larvae. So soaking is required. Spraying onto wood, especially if polished, is nothing more than a superficial surface treatment. If you soak in a spirit based (VOC) insectide, the vehicle will evaporate too quickly to damage any polish but a water based insecticide may cause the cells to expand and not dry out to its original state. The beetle will lay its eggs in the summer in a secure crevice, crack, joint, or dusty corner - so those are the areas which need preventative treatment, not smooth flat surfaces which are usually polished or varnished and thus impervious to treatment! But having said that, many wood worm killers/dusts use nerve agents which react by touch not ingestion so a dusty internally may suffice. However, current requirements are that 'domestic' insectides and fungicides are biodegradable and increasingly of low toxicity so whereas years ago one treatment would last a life-time, not so today! Periodic retreatment is now necessary. It is impossible to know when or where the furniture beetle will 'attack'. An attack only becomes evident in the spring from the gritty dust (frass) from new flight holes which is when a good soaking/spraying is beneficial until new holes cease to appear. The damage has already been done. "99% of the time" attacks do not occur at normal room temperature and humidty (60-70oF, 55-75%RH) in a well ventilated room. "99% of attacks" come from wood having been discarded in a damp, ill ventilated garden shed - a paradise to both woodworm and antique collectors! But "1% of attacks" can and do happen in 'attack proof' environments. That's nature. Just to illustrate the point I have 45-gal drums stuffed with cleft-chestnut spiles. One spile might be peppered with holes, and yet the rest are fine! The little cherubs! |
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#67 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland.
Posts: 86
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Has anybody tried the Microwave route for permanently getting rid of these Pests. I came across the attached Paper recently.
It indicates the parameters within which this seems to be achievable through a home made / adapted device. Before I go using up my scarce time I wonder if anyone has made one possibly by adapting a kitchen microwave appliance. |
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#68 |
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oxford, UK
Posts: 27,966
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You can't use a normal kitchen microwave because most items you want to treat won't fit inside.
There is a more general problem - most infested wood contains moisture, and the microwave energy will cause this to boil. This will soften animal glues and cause veneers to peel off. In the worst case it's possible that plywood will delaminate. I'm sure a custom machine could be built, but this is beyond the abilities of most hobbyists. Remember that microwave generators contain very high voltages, and the microwaves themselves must be completely screened. |
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#69 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dingle, County Kerry, Ireland.
Posts: 86
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I take your point Paul.
High Voltages and Hazardous environments are my daily work. However I appreciate that this is not so for a Hobbyist in general. Although, there are clearly many very competent restorers on this site I would not like to compromise any persons safety, therefor, I withdraw my suggestion. Regards. Will. |
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#70 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: W.Butterwick, near Doncaster UK.
Posts: 8,935
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Stick to Rentokill fluid or similar i think.
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G8JET BVWS Archivist and Member V.M.A.R.S |
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#71 |
Dekatron
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Edinburgh, UK.
Posts: 3,274
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I believe freezing kills moth larvae. I wonder if it also kills woodworm?
Peter |
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#72 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Borgloon, Belgium.
Posts: 2
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-put the whole thing in a freezer at -20°C for 3 weeks , all gone
-also kerosine kills woodworm -Go to pharnacy , buy phenol , put this in a cup , place this cup in the wood cabinet . then put a plastic bag around the whole thing and place it in a hot place for a week |
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#73 |
Heptode
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Limerick, Ireland.
Posts: 901
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I also use blowtorch on inside if bare wood. More than +32C or less than -21 kills them.
A day or so in freezer and then into a warm fan oven at minimum will work. I use Ronseal stuff also as it kills fungus, mould and bugs. My two worst infested models I have a write up on. I have a very bad Amplion, using 2 x boxes of cocktail sticks to fill holes! http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/eve...repair_ca.html This one I had the "bright" idea of soaking the case to get the Rexine / Leatherette off in one piece and then treat the VERY extensive woodworm. Ooops! http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/inv...led_vicki.html |
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#74 |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Redruth, Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 2,579
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Hi Mike.
That's a really excellent write up on your Ever Ready and Invicta sets. They've been brought back from the dead. I liked the way you've remade the tuning scale as well. I have a Roberts R700 with the black and white scale that needs replacing but could do with a good scan of a decent original. I have a few badly wormed radios to deal with including one almost as bad as your Ever Ready C/E. Like yours, mine has powdery side panels which are past repair so I'll try to find the correct thickness plywood to make replacements. Regards Symon. |
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#75 |
Heptode
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Limerick, Ireland.
Posts: 901
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P.M. me for email and then send me scan or photo with dimensions and I'll see can I fix it.
Here is the closest I have. Note the forum shrinks it. I have it 2081 x 530 |
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#76 |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Redruth, Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 2,579
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Hi Mike.
Thanks very much for the offer of help with the scans. I'll contact you by PM when I'm ready to start the other R700. Regards Symon. |
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