Best hand power tool for Bakelite polishing?

[SurreyNick]

It really is time I resorted to a power hand tool for Bakelite polishing. The old elbow grease isn't as effective as it once was.

Can anyone suggest a good lightweight hand tool with accompanying polishing brushes/mops/heads which they have experience of, so I can put it on my Christmas wish list?

Budget c.£30 new or second hand excluding polishing heads if poss.

Thanks

Nick

[stevehertz]

Well, go down that route if you want to. I suspect that you've tried to polish Bakelite by hand and have not been satisfied with the results? The answer is not power tools but using the correct polishing medium - in my opinion. Try using Greygate paste polishing No 5 GPO Bakelite restoration polish. It works, you won't (shouldn't) need power tools. If you've tried this product and are still not happy, fair do's, try the added 'bite' of a power tool to enhance the performance.

[60 oldjohn]

I would be interested to hear of anyone using power tools on Bakelite successfully. My one and only try was with a soft cloth wheel on a stand, I tried polishing a knob. The knob was ripped out of my hand hit floor then the roof and disappeared into the back of my garage. I found the knob three years later when moving some stock. I think something with low and controllable power may be the answer.

John.

[Andrewausfa]

A couple of years ago I was looking at one of those specialist dual action car polishers which can be fitted with all sorts of pads. They were and still are pretty expensive, OK if you're into valeting but monetarily I couldn't stretch that far just to polish radios!

Interestingly, that Polish No.5 was originally for polishing switch contacts per the manufacturers website. Good stuff on Bakelite anyway.

Andrew

[music-centre]

In my opinion I think the finish could be damaged if using an abrasive polish with a power tool, the actual top layer that will polish up to a good shine sometimes doesn't seem to be very thick to me and I would be concerned about going through this or too much heat generated that may damage it. O.K if it was only rotating slowly I guess.
If the Bakelite is in good condition it seems to polish up easily by hand but if its damaged (possibly sun damage?) however much you polish it never comes up very well.
Steve.

[Nickthedentist]

Originally Posted by music-centre

If the Bakelite is in good condition it seems to polish up easily by hand but if its damaged (possibly sun damage?) however much you polish it never comes up very well.

Well put.

I agree with your suspicions, as I also collect Bakelite clocks and I've seen many where, even after polishing, the Bakelite is dull and lifeless except under the dial where it gleams.

You can then resort to wax, silicone etc. but the resultant shine is rather prone to fingermarks and a bit slippery.

N.

[David Simpson]

Nick & Guys,
Best keep power tools away from Bakelite. The slightest over-abrasive action could seriously damage the surface.
I've been using FARECLA paste for some time now & found it to be ideal. It contains no caustic or acidic compounds. I've bought it from a motoring goods shop in big sqeezy tubes. Just a couple of sq" at a time - spread a small dollop with some white kitchen roll sheets, rub in firmly,wait 3 or 4 minutes, then rub off. Do the whole surface with No6, then repeat with No10. If you need to get right into moulding depressions, to remove dried paste, use wee soft circular brushes designed for using between ones teeth.
I tried a vari-speed Dremmel power tool with soft wee brushes & pads on the inside of a Bakelite cabinet, just as a test. It worked fine using Farecla,but couldn't get a uniform sheen over a large area.
Nothing can replace gentle sensitive fingers, as the bishop said to the actress.

Regards, David

[Restoration73]

My experience for knobs is to attach to a spindle held in the chuck. Careful use of a soft
rag with Paste No.5 and control of drill speed can result in a great finish. Use of toothbrush to remove any polish from a serrated edge.

[Boater Sam]

The hard outer surface is brought about by the pressure in the mould when the item is made. It is not very thick and once removed you will not get a good finish.

You will get a mottled finish with a power polisher.
As has been said, its the polishing paste that makes the difference.

Have you used "Bako-bright" from Radiophile? It is reputed to be excellent.

[SurreyNick]

I've only ever used Brasso, so I'll try the Greygate paste and some of the other suggestions herein and see how I get on.

There must be a small battery power hand tool available though with controllable speeds.

Nick

[whyperion]

The battery tools seem over the budget from what I have seen . The usual internet suppliers have a number of items. A tip for holding items where required, one can buy either portable drill stands , to conver the tool to a pillar drill, or if using a good engineers vice, use leather or felt faced jaw inserts ( old belts are useful to make those !), to help hold tool, or workpiece, steady

[John Caswell]

Duraglit is another cleaner I had a great deal of success with. Used to clean the surface initially with hot water/detergent, dry it, then polish with Duraglit.
DAC90s use to come up a treat

John

[SurreyNick]

Originally Posted by whyperion

The battery tools seem over the budget from what I have seen.

Mm, perhaps my budget is too optimistic. So budget aside is there a hand tool which is lightweight and has variable speed control? If there is one which has the chuck facing downwards (like the picture of this angle grinder) that would be ideal.

A few months ago I bought some kitchen cupboard doors off a bloke who cleaned them up with a polishing paste using a hand tool shaped as I described. I wish I had clocked what is was, because it would have been ideal. He had it running on a nice slow speed too.

Nick

[ms660]

http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28660.php?list

Or something similar.

Lawrence.

[Sean Williams]

Machine polishing is not good on Bakelite, the hard glaze coating is formed due to the heat and pressure of moulding, and is only a few thousandths of an inch thick.

Polishers designed for automotive use are really meant for large area flat panel work, not for detail stuff, and fragile thermoplastics.

The dremel is far too fast and will tend to burn rather than polish.

As for the picture of the angle grinder.......

Elbow grease, and someting a little coarser than Brasso is the way to go - you are trying to cut through oxidisation, a coarse cutting compound followed by a good quality polish does the job well.

[SurreyNick]

Originally Posted by pwdrive

http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28660.php?list
Or something similar.

Yes Lawrence that's exactly the style I was looking for. Thanks.

In fact when looking for the price on this Proxxon one I came across what looks identical to the one the bloke used for polishing the delicate kitchen cabinet doors I bought. A Milwaukee. A lot more expensive but will run at just 490rpm which is perfect.

I will have to save up, but it's on my to-get list.

Nick

[stevehertz]

You got me interested now Nick! Why are you preferring the Milwaukee over the Proxxon? the latter looks fine for hobby use? Just interested for your view, you've obviously researched this tool.

[dseymo1]

A number of years ago, my son bought me an inexpensive battery-operated shoe polisher with both brushes and buffing wheels, which would probably be fine for occasional use on Bakelite.

[SurreyNick]

The Milwaukee has the advantage that it can be operated at under 500 rpm, while the Proxxon has a minimum 800 rpm. This may have value given the comments about the thinness of the outer polished layer of the Bakelite. However, the Milwaukee is more than three times the price. I suspect is comes down to the lightness of one's touch and attentiveness. Personally I feel more than capable of handling one of these without damaging the Bakelite.

The battery-operated shoe polisher is certainly worth investigating too.

Nick

[stevehertz]

Yeah, I agree that 'touch' will prove to be a big part of how successful polishing will be. I mean, if one goes at it like using an angle grinder on steel combined with a sharp cutting paste for more aggression then yes, the surface will be removed in a jiffy. I guess the way forwards is light pressure and for short periods to avoid heat build up and potential bubbling problems. I've seen bubbled Bakelite.