Trio 9R-59D help

[Aztecboy]

Hi All
New here and recently rekindled my interest in AR after a break of some 45 years!

A couple of days ago I bought a Trio 9R-59D locally for £50. It is in pretty good nick and hasn't seen any mods.

I will get a decent 40m dipole up at some stage but a long wire draped out across the garden has yielded some results although the radio does seem rather deaf. That of course may just be the aerial but I would have expected a bit more.

It also started blowing fuses.
Was on the 3rd 2a fuse which had being going for a day when suddenly bang! C45, one of those grey 0.01uF caps gave up in spectacular fashion. Our cat has not been seen for a while

So my questions:
1) Are there any known areas I should explore for the relative deafness?
2) As a matter of course, should I replace all those grey 0.01uF caps to be on the safe side? (there aren't that many)
3) What is the difference between all the marks (D,DS &DE)?

I must say I am pretty excited to get back into this after all these years. I only every used CW.

Many thanks to all in advance

Ted

[Biggles]

Hi and welcome to the forum. There has been quite a lot written about that set here on the forum, including modifications etc. If you do a search you should find the posts. A few members have them including myself.
Alan.

[Aztecboy]

Thanks Biggles
I have already been reading them but not found the answers to questions as yet. I will keep browsing the list, thank you.

[G6Tanuki]

Hi Ted, and welcome to the 9R-59 chapter of the forum!

I've got one here which I'm slowly working on. All I can remember about the numbering is that a "S" in the model-number means it has a voltage-stabiliser (OA2) fitted. Even on the non-stabiliser-equipped models there's a B7G hole punched in the chassis in anticipation and how-to-fit-the-stabiliser is covered in the manual!

Mine is deaf too: I've tried melting off as much of the wax from the RF coils as I could (there's been discussion of this here in the past: the wax goes lossy with age and the increased loss can actually be enough to kill the local-oscillator) but it's still not as good as it should be.

I had to replace both the RF-Gain pot and the S-Meter-Zero pot as they'd gone intermittent.

I've fitted a 3-core mains lead in place of the original 2-core one, so it's slightly safer. Apart from that I would also hardwire the 115/230V sel3ector switch to 230 as it's very easy to knock it during servicing and if you don't notice it could cost you a mains transformer.

Apart from that, checking and replacing the usual resistors and capacitors is a good idea, same as on any other potentially 50-year-old radio. I've been using modern 1-Watt metal film resistors which are nice and stable.

One 'modification' I have done to mine is to make up a felt washer to fit between the main 'tuning' knob and the front panel - this adds some extra friction and makes it less likely for you to nudge the main tuning when adjusting the inner bandspread-tuning knob.

[Station X]

When renovating mine I certainly found the "that capacitor" was leaking electrically with potentially disastrous consequences. It's quite likely that other caps of the same type could also be leaky.

[dave walsh]

As Allan said there are many threads and the ID is not that straight forward. There is even a receiver [with the same title] that has a HORIZONTAL SCALE dial-I couldn't get that message across at one point,

Re the more common version with, different designations, I would nominate the TRIO 9R59DS thread by "abelshun" 24/7/14 as a starting point-it links to others as well.

Dave

[AC/HL]

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...d.php?t=107955

[dodgy-dxer]

Ted

Greetings from Red Lodge!

Also very active on CW

73 Fred
G4BWP

[Aztecboy]

Thank you all for your responses!

I have been devouring all the info I can find on the radio and today ordered a pack of 0.01uf caps to replace all those that are the same as the TNT one.

I was also quite amazed to discover my "D" already has the regulator installed, the wirework looks original however there is a barren 3 way tag board next to the base of the stabiliser tube, I wonder what that was for?

Can someone give me an idea for the correct way to use the bandspread on this set? My assumption is with BS set to "0" on the very bottom scale, then the main tuning dial indicates accurately. So to use and following that logic, one would set say bang on 7Mhz on the main tuning, leave it there (with the BS set at 0), then any adjustments to BS would indicate accurately on that scale.

I read somewhere that there is a service manual for this radio available, I would be very keen to lay my hands on that if anyone know where I might source it.

Fred, once I resit my licence and dust off my old key I will listen out. Do you operate on 40m?

Ted

[Jon_G4MDC]

Glad all is well in F(red) Lodge, missed Stockwood so no see you

I have not had my 9R59DS for many years but I do remember it had no Earth wire and a pair of equal value capacitors across AC in. They might have been 10n or 100n, I don't recall. Probably one of these was the one which fried in the case mentioned by OP?

If the chassis was not connected to Earth (mine was connected to a copper pipe hammered into Earth under the window) the casework was very buzzy to the touch. It felt like it vibrated or hummed when touched.

If ever the Earth terminal was disconnected and you touched something else connected to mains Earth (a 3 wire metal desk lamp sitting on top equipped with rubber feet in my case) you would know about it. Ouch!

The case would sit at 115V from Earth when only connected by the two wires L&N. Measured by AVO8. Not at all surprising given the circuit used.

My lead in wire was only 2x brown wires without polarity (or I didn't know then about what a raised rib in the insulation meant about polarity?) I think in this case nothing much - did the cable used even have one?

Much better to replace with a 3 wire cable and an Earth wire. Arguments can ensue about what to do about the Chassis (Antenna) earth on the Antenna side - will it cause problems/noise with this/that mains supply situation?

Best thing is it will not bite you and any RF noise issues should be sorted by connecting the chassis to RF ground through some suitable capacitor.

[g4aaw pete]

Hello Ted

service manual here

http://w5rkl.com/wp-content/uploads/...ice-manual.pdf

Regards
Pete

[Aztecboy]

Thank you all so much for taking the time to help me find out about this little radio.

What I have gleaned so far is that in the UK the DE was introduced first, I think Sept 67 according to SW UK mag. If that means the D was introduced later, it mat explain why mine already has the regulator fitted.

I should get the replacement caps this morning, I will let you know how I get on.

[Station X]

My DS was purchased in 1970. It had the socket and wiring for the voltage regulator installed. I just had to plug one in.

[Nuvistor]

Originally Posted by Aztecboy

Fred, once I resit my licence and dust off my old key I will listen out. Do you operate on 40m?

Do you need to resit? If you have held a valid licence see the section from this page, it may be all you need to get the licence back.

https://www.ofcom.org.uk/manage-your...eur-radio-info

[Junk Box Nick]

I was pleased to help someone on this forum with a long lapsed licence regain their licence with the help of an old call book to verify their existence at an old address.

It can be done without resitting the exam(s). Thankfully, those days have long gone!

Well remember the buzzy finger effect with just the twin lead to the mains on my JR-310.

[Aztecboy]

Thanks Nick
Actually the resit was supposed to take place in Jan 72, unfortunately I was involved in a serious RTA eariler that month and never got around to it (until now). Lots of catching up to do!

Interestingly my set also has a 3 core mains (earthed) which also looks original (it has that crimson paint on all the solder joints). I am suspecting now that the D is a later mark.

[Andrew2]

The was a 59D for sale at the Rochdale rally today. Outward appearance looked quite good. It was going for £70, getting on for twice what I paid for my DS in 1972. It looked a lot bigger than I recall!

[Aztecboy]

Thanks again everyone for your help.

I am just starting to address the the partial deafness of this radio and read somewhere that removing the wax from some of the coils had been a benefit.

Which coils should I be addressing here? The band coils underneath don't look very waxy to me.

Any guidance gratefully received.

Best Ted

[Aztecboy]

Just to let you all know that replacing those paper tubular 0.01uF caps has made a considerable difference to the set's sensitivity. (C32, C34, C43, C44 & C45)

Next will be to get a decent 40m dipole lashed up although unfortunately it will have to be hidden behind a long 5 foot beech hedge.

BTW I have cleaned up the service manual in Photoshop if anyone would like a copy.
Ted

[Aztecboy]

Originally Posted by G6Tanuki

Mine is deaf too: I've tried melting off as much of the wax from the RF coils as I could (there's been discussion of this here in the past: the wax goes lossy with age and the increased loss can actually be enough to kill the local-oscillator) but it's still not as good as it should be.

Thanks G6Tanuki
I had a look at the coils on mine and they don't appear very waxy except maybe one. Were all your coils waxed up?