|
Success Stories If you have successfully repaired or restored a piece of equipment, why not write up what you did and post details here. Particularly if it was interesting, unusual or challenging. PLEASE DO NOT POST REQUESTS FOR HELP HERE! |
|
Thread Tools |
3rd Jan 2014, 1:02 pm | #1 |
Heptode
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Walsham, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 900
|
Sony TC-K611S
I had this machine in for repair fault was the door wouldn't open. So I changed the mech drive belt (no easy task) put it back together and was rewarded with a door that opened but now no play or other functions, just the mechanism shuffling back and forth and it was then it hit me.........Mode switch, just like video recorders the mode switch was dirty and causing a similar situation I had seen many times in modern videos so complete strip down needed and it was such a ****** to do I thought I would take pictures of the re assembly to help anyone else seeing a similar model with this deck or even this model.
Start by opening the door (catch at top of the deck and can be actuated by hand) and remove the door front by sliding upwards. Unplug the wiring to the deck, 3 plugs on the main board and 3 on the top of the deck. Remove the 2 screws at the top and 2 underneath all with arrows pointing to them. Tilt the deck back at the top and remove it complete. Remove the cassette door by releasing the spring unit on the side and then the pin which is held on by a plastic circlip/washer. Remove the reel cover by undoing the 2 black screws lift and release from the 2 clips on the lower edge, don't forget to unplug the 2 pin connector for the cassette lamp. Remove the small plastic clip from the F/R pulley, don't lose it cos its very small , lift the idler off. Now turn the deck over and remove the 3 screws (2 black and a gold one) that hold the capstan motor plate on. Unplug the motor and remove it saving the belt. Remove the capstan flywheel. Now you can see the deck control & F/R motor plate this is held in by 4 gold coloured screws, undo them all noting the earth wire on the top corner one. Lift the motor board watching out for bits falling out, the door interlock lever fell out and it took me ages to work out where it went. Also the mech drive motor pulley and cog fall out as they come off with the motor. Turn the motor plate over and you will see the mode switch (grey round unit above the motor spindles) Desolder the switch and remove the 2 screws you can then pop it open and clean the tracks, also re tension the fingers and clean them. Remount the switch and don't forget to resolder it! Make sure the slot on the switch is pointing away from the motors as shown in the picture, Put the belt on the drive pulley then put the cog in. Make sure the but cam has the pin in the same position as in the picture, this is what meshes with the mode switch so its important it in in the right position. Place the motor plate back on but don't stick the screws in yet as you have to lift it slightly to get the drive belt in the motor pulley, I use a spring hook to tease it into position, now double check the pin is meshed with the slot on the switch and the lower white bar is located in the cam follower and the cam follower is located in its slot of the cam as in the picture. Screw the motor plate down, don't forget the earth wire. Next put the capstan flywheel back and locate the belt on it, put the belt on the capstan motor pulley and lower the motor into position and replace the 3 screws not forgetting to replace the cable clip on one of them. The rest is the reverse of stripping down. I like to test it before putting it in by just connecting the 3 white connectors on the top of the deck and seeing if it all functions before replacing the cassette door as that is a bit fiddly to do and its easier to check it first. Hopefully this will help any one doing this job and save a little time, it took me ages to work it all out as there's very little about it on the net. Last edited by nigelr2000; 3rd Jan 2014 at 1:18 pm. Reason: missed out a bit |
3rd Jan 2014, 1:03 pm | #2 |
Heptode
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Walsham, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 900
|
Re: Sony TC-K611S
More pictures
|
3rd Jan 2014, 1:04 pm | #3 |
Heptode
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Walsham, Norfolk, UK.
Posts: 900
|
Re: Sony TC-K611S
Last 2 pics
|
5th Jan 2014, 6:41 pm | #4 |
Nonode
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: 1966-1976 Coverack in Cornwall and Helston Cornwall. 1976-present Bristol/Bath area.
Posts: 2,965
|
Re: Sony TC-K611S
You are a brave man. Excellent job.
__________________
Simon BVWS member |
20th Feb 2014, 9:45 pm | #5 |
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Ipswich, Suffolk, IP4, UK.
Posts: 21,288
|
Re: Sony TC-K611S
One off topic post moved to a new thread here:-
https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...d.php?t=103906
__________________
Graham. Forum Moderator Reach for your meter before you reach for your soldering iron. |
1st Aug 2015, 1:51 pm | #6 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Newcastle, Tyne & Wear, UK.
Posts: 1
|
Re: Sony TC-K611S
Thanks very much for the instructions and the photographs. Your guide, and the Sony service manual (such as it is), enabled me to replace the drive belts and pinch rollers to restore a TC-K611S back to first class working order again.
I had forgotten just how good the TC-K611S is. I was going to sell it, but now after the repair I am keeping it! |
31st Jul 2016, 11:02 am | #7 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Heckmondwike, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 9,642
|
Re: Sony TC-K611S
One post moved here: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...d.php?t=128405
|