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Components and Circuits For discussions about component types, alternatives and availability, circuit configurations and modifications etc. Discussions here should be of a general nature and not about specific sets. |
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7th Aug 2017, 3:41 pm | #21 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Evesham, Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 4,241
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
Ah! I didn't realise that Farnell's price was that low - I didn't follow the links in post #2 because when I came to this thread this morning, higher prices than that were being discussed so I assumed that neither of the links had got us any further forward. A fiver isn't a bad price for piece of mind
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7th Aug 2017, 4:04 pm | #22 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
At a fiver I change my mind.
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11th Aug 2017, 3:04 pm | #23 |
Nonode
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Leicester, UK
Posts: 2,505
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
The new HRC fuses arrived yesterday and I fitted one today. I was able to complete all the tests including the resistance and diode test, ratio self test and switch decoding test. Voltages on all the test points that I could actually find (TP 2, 7, 8) were within specificaton and a trigger pulse was present on TP6 as well as a 40kHz signal on TP9. So far, so good.
Unfortunately while I was replacing the cover, disaster struck! On replacing one of the two screws behind the display, I heard a slight crack... On turning on the meter, the display showed L L L L instead of 0 0 0 0. Having removed the lid again, I found that on the back of the LCD module there is a plastic bar that retains the PCB and puts pressure against the LCD. The lug on one side had cracked and broken off. I am not terribly hopeful, but I am attempting to repair this with epoxy adhesive and will know tomorrow whether the resulting repair is strong enough and whether there still is sufficient pressure to enable the LCD to show the digits correctly. Has anyone had this happen? I don't quite know how or why this happened but when I fist removed the lid, one of the three plastic screw mount points in the lid was cracked already and a piece fell off. I have already repaired it with the same epoxy adhesive. I also noticed that both screw mount points on the LCD section were cracked as well. I am wondering whether the plastic is getting so brittle that it is prone to cracking at the slightest bit of stress? Evidently screwing in that last screw somehow caused sufficient flex and stress to cause that part to break even though it is not directly connected with the case or the mount point. The infuriating thing is that I was actually trying to be careful and not put too much pressure on the case! With the LCD removed, I can see that all of the caps look clean and the meter otherwise works fine so I'm trying to decide whether to leave well alone or having read about leaking cap issues, whether to re-cap? It will, of course, depend on how well the repair goes. If it fails there will probably be no point and I might end up having to sell the parts to recover some of the cost. I appreciate this is going OT a bit as the OP specifically discussed the fuse, but it still relates to this meter so I am happy for mods to change the thread title. Last edited by WaveyDipole; 11th Aug 2017 at 3:12 pm. |
12th Aug 2017, 10:12 am | #24 |
Nonode
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Leicester, UK
Posts: 2,505
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
Well the good news is that the repair with the epoxy adhesive was successful. I released the clamp this morning and the joint seems to be holding. I reattached the display to the main board using minimal tension on he mounting screws so as to prevent further damage to the already cracked mount points and have re-assembled everything. The display shows all segments correctly and the meter functions as expected. While re-assembling I realised that the break occurred on the opposite side of the display to the screw I was working on at the time so I am puzzled as to how this might have actually happened in the first place. At least the money I spent on the spare HRC fuse was not wasted after all!
Last edited by WaveyDipole; 12th Aug 2017 at 10:23 am. |
12th Aug 2017, 11:37 am | #25 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: London, UK.
Posts: 3,687
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
Looks good. The plastic does go quite brittle.
Yes definitely recap it! I've had one that the electrolyte leaked out and ate the ribbon cable in it. Pictures of the carnage below Before I forget to add, the only end game on the 8060 series is the LCD display being damaged. The 8010/8020 series you can make a new display for about £5 and some fiddly manual labour. I've done this twice now. Never again! Here's a before/after: There's half a roll of kynar in the fixed one! Last edited by MrBungle; 12th Aug 2017 at 11:45 am. |
12th Aug 2017, 1:22 pm | #26 |
Nonode
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Leicester, UK
Posts: 2,505
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
The damage to that ribbon looks nasty and no doubt unrepairable. Regarding the display, is that the so called LCD bleed problem? Although its actually readable, I have never seen one looking like that before!
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12th Aug 2017, 2:10 pm | #27 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Evesham, Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 4,241
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
I read recently that the display bleed problem only happens with the 8010/8020 displays because they were made in the USA "for political reasons". The 8060A screens were made by Sharp.
Now if this sounds a bit anecdotal, it comes from Dave Taylor, who designed the 8060A. The source is here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testge...28/#msg1277328 For anyone interested in these old meters - and the 8060A/8062A is a real treasure - the whole thread is worth skimming. NB: I haven't listened to the whole podcast, but here it is: https://theamphour.com/180-an-interv...d-meter-maker/ |
12th Aug 2017, 3:00 pm | #28 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Evesham, Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 4,241
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
Quote:
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12th Aug 2017, 6:17 pm | #29 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: London, UK.
Posts: 3,687
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
Wouldn't surprise me. However I've seen the same thing on an 8060A before.
Quote:
The display is one of the failure mode. It usually creeps in from the edges to total blackness but this was a weird one. The big problem with this meter was it wouldn't auto zero. Took hours of scrubbing with IPA and cleaning switches to get it back. Works perfectly now though |
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12th Aug 2017, 7:55 pm | #30 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Evesham, Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 4,241
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Re: Fuse for Fluke 8062A
Quote:
Dave Taylor is the best source we've got at this point in time. I'm about half way through the podcast - it's an excellent listen |
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