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Vintage Audio (record players, hi-fi etc) Amplifiers, speakers, gramophones and other audio equipment.

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Old 27th May 2017, 9:08 pm   #21
Nickthedentist
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Default Re: Any ideas how to mend glass tuner scale?

Yes, that's incredible, Mike.
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Old 27th May 2017, 9:31 pm   #22
FrankB
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Default Re: Any ideas how to mend glass tuner scale?

I am finding this an interesting thread. Could one take 2 very thin pieces of glass and decal the back of the one piece to use as the front, then sandwich the 2 together, with the decal/lettering in between?

They sell carbide glass drilling blades here locally in a selection of a variety of sizes in one package at Harbor Freight Tools I saw them yesterday.

I think I remember reading in a very old copy of QST (1930's?) Hints & Kinks you could drill glass with a metal rod and very fine grit using kerosene of camphor as a lubricant. The rod needed to be the same size as the hole you need, and very light pressure and a lot of lube was used. IIRC, the pix was of it being done with a drill press. A lengthy process I suspect, with a lot of finesse needed.
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Old Yesterday, 8:01 am   #23
mark_in_manc
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Default Re: Any ideas how to mend glass tuner scale?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankB View Post
...you could drill glass with a metal rod and very fine grit using kerosene of camphor as a lubricant...
I have one or two old physics books like that - I was interested in setting up a demo for students but felt it unlikely I was going to have much luck finding lycopodium powder or an india-rubber bag!

(Having just googled the former, I see one can now buy it on the usual auction site. That shouldn't surprise me, I guess, but it does!)
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Old Yesterday, 10:57 pm   #24
emeritus
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Default Re: Any ideas how to mend glass tuner scale?

Ordinary Tungsten Carbide masonry drills work well. I saw their use demonstrated at a do-it-yourself exhibition in the 1950's, where the demonstrator drilled a hole in a bottle by making a ring of putty around the hole's location, filled it with oil, and then used a hand drill, applying heavy pressure and slow speed with the bit immersed in the oil. I have since used the method myself on numerous occasions.

The type of masonry drill used has a tip with a negative rake on its leading edge, and works by crushing the material under the edge of the drill that is in contact with it. This is in contrast to a normal twist drill for metal or wood, where material is removed by the sharp leading edge biting into the surface of the work, getting beneath it, and levering it up.
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